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Replies: 52 / Views: 4,173 |
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Valued Member
United States
438 Posts |
got the 1885 and 1899 in the mail today. I am betting the 1899 would grade ms64+
it is gorgeous, comparable to both my NGC ms64 and ms65's
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Valued Member
 United States
56 Posts |
UPDATE TIME: I got the email from ANACS, and the grade it got was AG3. So all together, with the coin, shipping, grading, the total was $511. If it was you, would you pay that much? I'm wondering if that price is too much, too little, or just right for an ANACS slabbed AG3. thanks
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Looking at past Heritage auctions, the last ten ANACS slabbed AG3 1916-D Mercury dimes (the last 2 1/2 years or so) went for between $402 and $575 for an average of $493. $517 seems to have been a popular price. Those numbers don't include shipping. I'm sure ebay is somewhat higher. I'd say you did about average plus or minus a few bucks.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo 09/21/2011 6:08 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2936 Posts |
Just an indicator - I recently sold my AG-3 16D on ebay basically raw as I had broken it out of the PCGS slab to go into the DANSCO. It sold for $549. I did include the PCGS cert label with the coin and offered to pay return shipping if the buyer had a problem with the coin. He didn't.... Loved it...
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Valued Member
 United States
56 Posts |
Eh, it looks like I paid at or a touch below market value for it. It seems there is a wide range for AG3 coins, alot of the ones on ebay look much worse than mine but is graded the same. Those dont look as good but aren't bad enough to be FR2, they should have AG 2.5 or something..
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
I'm thinking that ANACS has tighten up with their grading, but that's pretty good timing grading it, is the return shipping via FedEx?
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Valued Member
United States
297 Posts |
Nice.
I only need 7 more including a 1916D to finish up my set.
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Valued Member
 United States
56 Posts |
The return shipping is fed ex, I didnt get the coin back yet but it says i'll get it today or tomorrow. I did the 5 day grading and express shipping there, I needed the coin back by Oct. 2 if I wanted to take it back to the guy. I heard that if you get a coin graded by ANACS instead of NGC or PCGS that it would be worth less. Now, seeing that my dime is obviously not a FR2, does it really matter who graded it? If they graded it a G4 or something, I could see it being somewhat up for debate, but its obviously not overgraded.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4418 Posts |
Quote: ... they should have AG 2.5 or something. This reminds me of an experience I had a few years ago. I was at the FUN Show and sat down at the ANACS table with Mike Fahey. I first showed him a PCGS slabbed '16-D, graded AG-3. He concurred with that grade, Then, I showed him an ANACS graded one that was also designated AG-3. As the second coin appeared significantly superior, and some experienced dealers had concurred with my observation that the ANACS coin was under-graded, I asked Mr. Fahey his opinion. His reply was that this second coin was a 3.8 ! I cracked the coin out, and a dealer bought it at Good bid. The coin that started this thread is likely one that ANACS would consider a 3.6 ... 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
To late now but I see no reason for you to have sent it in for grading and slabbin. Just a lot more money and from all the replys you got, no one even suspected it to be a fake. Not sure where you put your coins but if that one was mine, out of the slab and into an album. I collect coins, not plastic.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
I don't live inside a piece of paper, but I still think it's a good idea to insure your home. The 1916-D is one of the most counterfeited coins there is, and some of the fakes are pretty sophisticated. It's worth it to send it in.
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Valued Member
 United States
56 Posts |
I just didn't want to take a chance, seeing as it is such a faked coin. The guy I bought it from doesn't have a coin shop, he only goes to shows and swap meets. The only time I knew for a fact I could find him was on the 2nd of October at a certain coin show, so I wanted to hurry up and get it authenticated. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4418 Posts |
While this oldtimer certainly appreciates having a coin in hand and seeing those key dates in an album, the '16-d's and other key coins virtually demand certification in today's marketplace. Given this and the circumstances of your purchase, brew_crew011, IMHO, you made a wise move. Over the years, I've met some collectors who unknowingly had faked, key coins in their albums/collection for many years. It was only when they were at or near the point of selling their coins that the sad truth was realized.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: While this oldtimer certainly appreciates having a coin in hand and seeing those key dates in an album, the '16-d's and other key coins virtually demand certification in today's marketplace. Given this and the circumstances of your purchase, brew_crew011, IMHO, you made a wise move. Over the years, I've met some collectors who unknowingly had faked, key coins in their albums/collection for many years. It was only when they were at or near the point of selling their coins that the sad truth was realized. Completely true. It happened to someone I met that was a collector and dealer for well over 50 years. And it was that coin too. I would think that there are many collectors with fakes in their collections right now and just don't know.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10635 Posts |
If I had bought a 16-d a decade or so ago for a couple of hundred bucks and it has been sitting in my collection and I had no intention of selling it ever, I don't know if I'd want to know if it was fake or not, lol.
Les
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Replies: 52 / Views: 4,173 |