How Much Did You Spend On Your Type Set If You Did A Dansco

I stick with one coin at a time, whatever I can afford.

I have a very good type set but since all of the coins are slabbed I don't have a 7070.
My set is based on a type set as listed in the NGC Registry.
It is larger than the 7070 and not knowing the contents of a 7070 I can't come up with a comparable value.

If I were you, I would certainly consider spending more on this set than others you may build.

I had a 7070 completed (no gold), but some of it was junky and I didn't like the looks of my set and the grade range. I think I may have been around 1500 on it. It's the only set I've ever had in my collection that I have sold. I sold much of it individually and got about what I put in. You may find that if you have one or two tough IHCs (or whatever) that grade low in an otherwise nice set, you won't care, but a type set with junk in it really bothered me. I am working on a slabbed high end type set right now. I am also choosing what I want in it and not following Dansco's rubric..for example, I don't really need 3 seated types each of dime, quarter and half, but I really want a Bust dollar.

INTENT
My intent when I started my type set was to be able to show people what designs the US Mint had issued from 1792 through 1964.
I wanted to be able to do a show-and-tell.

SCOPE
To that end I grabbed my Red Book and wrote down all of the different designs.
I included the various varieties that weren't Mint errors.
For instance both Buffalo nickel design types were included BUT NOT such coins as the 3-leg (hence two Buffalo nickels were all that were required).
I then discovered the NGC Registry Sets and found that I had missed a couple design varieties (by their definition) which I added to my list.
I also found that NGC had two different gold type sets: one that started with the first gold coins issued by the Mint, and one that went only back to issues first struck in 1834 or after.
Because of the price of early gold coins I went with the "short" set (1834-1933).

COIN SPECIFICS (Grade vs. Cost)
My initial idea was to get coins that had enough design elements remaining so that someone looking at them would be able to see what the Mint intended.
So my first criteria was:
-- XF or better
-- $500 or less
-- slabbed by PCGS or NGC (I had already decided to do an NGC Registry type set)
After acquiring the 20th century coins (mostly in MS) it quickly became apparent that my criteria were going to have to give a bit.
My decision was to hold to "XF or better" with the understanding that $500 wasn't going to be enough in many cases.

CURRENT STATUS
My gold type set (NGC short set definition) is complete.
I held to my "XF or better" criterion except for the Classic Head Half Eagle which is an 1836 in VF-30.
My nickel type set is complete "XF or better".
My copper type set is NOT complete; I'm missing a number of the issues from the decade of the 1790's. Some I will never get unless I hit the lottery. Most of the ones I DO get will be less than XF.
My silver type set is NOT complete; I'm missing a number of the issues from the decade of the 1790's. Some I will never get unless I hit the lottery. Most of the ones I DO get will be less than XF.

BOTTOM LINE
My Cu/Ni/Ag type set was 15th in the NGC Registry last I saw.
I don't remember where my Au type set ranked.

Yea I mean 3k seems to be a good set, I agree I like the idea of higher end coins but you got a balance the set with what you can afford. I'd like to complete then go into prepetual upgrade mode :)

Hey, I got it the first time.
Click on the "eye" over towards the right to see individual coins.