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Pre-33 Double Eagles An Investment Question...or Two

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DoubleEagle20's Avatar
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1750 Posts
 Posted 11/07/2013  01:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DoubleEagle20 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I can tell you the 1908 no motto to look for if you are a starting a serious collection. They strengthened the obverse die later in 1908 and generally the coin has a better look to it. How to tell if a 1908 is one of these coins is look up into the stars near the the olive branch in Liberty's hand. One of them will be doubled, in particular the second one to the right of the "Y" of LIBERTY. IMO these 1908's in MS-64 and above are the coins one would want for a serious numismatic collection.
Really be picky on 1916-S. Most have a non-lustrous, flat look to them. You have to hunt to find the good ones. The 1920's are much easier to find something you will like, as they did much more work on the dies before striking.
Edited by DoubleEagle20
11/07/2013 02:14 am
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BH1964's Avatar
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10982 Posts
 Posted 11/07/2013  02:51 am  Show Profile   Check BH1964's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add BH1964 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Many good comments here. To the OP: Others have advised getting into better dates with more numismatic value (even if they're circulated) and I agree 100% assuming you can afford it. Common dates will almost always be more volatile.

Look into slightly better dates (by mintage/survival numbers) if you can't afford the truly better dates. Also consider MS63 Libs and MS64 Saints unless you can afford to go higher. Lastly, only buy PCGS/NGC certified pieces with good luster and strong eye appeal, pretty coins only with a minimum of bag marks. At 63 and 64 these are available but there's also some dogs out there.
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unholyroller's Avatar
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 Posted 11/07/2013  03:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add unholyroller to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Many thanks to all who have posted! Is an anxious transition switching from silver to gold coins. Much higher monetary risks as well as having a lower knowledge base makes forums like this so valuable
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 Posted 11/07/2013  10:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 3stooges to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Premiums fluctuate. They sometimes spike when mass-market promoters decide to hype $20s as "safe from government confiscation". Anyone who understands the lust for power inherent in big government and the nature of man knows that's a sales pitch and not a logical statement, as nothing is safe from theft.
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unholyroller's Avatar
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 Posted 11/07/2013  11:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add unholyroller to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Through all this I am starting to understand why some people collect early coppers....they are all numismatic in value...copper really doesn't play a factor.
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BH1964's Avatar
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 Posted 11/07/2013  5:01 pm  Show Profile   Check BH1964's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add BH1964 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Copper value definately doesn't play a roll in the price of early American coppers.

P.S. Sounds like you're considering numismatic/investment type purchases. Have you looked at top tier certified, choice to gem MS silver dollars?

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unholyroller's Avatar
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 Posted 11/07/2013  5:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add unholyroller to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes I have....it sort of splits the middle in regards to the PM intrinsic component affecting value. Is all so overwhelming when you transition from slick/spot/junk to choice stuff. I have been known to literally educate myself for years before I take a plunge into any sort of investment/hobby that calls for significant expense. To me...I am OCD about NOT being ignorant.
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DoubleEagle20's Avatar
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1750 Posts
 Posted 11/07/2013  9:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DoubleEagle20 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you don't have any double eagles at all, I would recommend a very nice 1923-D, 1927 or 1928 PCGS MS-65+ or an XF-45 higher mintage Carson City coin. 1923-D is the last common mint marked coin in the series.
Shop around a LOT before you buy it, comparing patina, luster, etc. Make sure there are no copper or carbon spots on the coin. Then give it some time after you buy it. I bet you catch the bug and buy another, and another...

Also buy Q David Bowers guide book on double eagles.

I am in a similar predicament as you. I have been thinking about buying one of the rarer mint marked 1920's double eagles...one of those that suffered greatly from the big gold coin melt in 1937. I just have this fear if I do buy one, multiple bags of that coin will be found in Swiss or French bank vaults...lol.
Their history is unique along with most CC $20 gold that one now encounters. A gentleman by the name of Paul Wittlin scoured Swiss and French banks for rarer mint marked Saints and CC coins and brought them back to the States in the 1940's and 1950's.
Edited by DoubleEagle20
11/07/2013 10:10 pm
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unholyroller's Avatar
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 Posted 11/07/2013  11:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add unholyroller to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Double....would that be called "gold roll hunting"? :-)
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DoubleEagle20's Avatar
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1750 Posts
 Posted 11/07/2013  11:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DoubleEagle20 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I wish I was around in 1932 when the Treasury was offering all the now extremely rare Saints via mail order. I could have bought a few 1927-D's, 1930-S, 1931 and 1932 coins. That would been very good "roll" hunting.

A fun little subset of my DE collection is what I think of as the "Roaring 20's" set. It is 1920, 1922, 1923-D, 1924, 1925, 1926, 1927 and 1928. These are the dates from that decade that are common and affordable, and contains the last affordable mint marked coin. Throw in a nice type coin for the $20 libs and one would have a nice little collection.
Edited by DoubleEagle20
11/08/2013 01:46 am
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