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Missing Date & Denomination Buffallo Nickel

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MickeyBee's Avatar
United States
163 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  09:20 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add MickeyBee to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Friends, just yesterday someone paid for a cigaratte with three Bufallo nickels. As I examined them,something strange appeared.

I did some research online and found out that in the beginning 1913, the US mint did make some changes on the reverse of the coin due to wearing out to quickly etc.

The coin does not show any effects of a DATE and whats more the area where the (FIVE CENTS) go is clean and appears Full of metal instead.

Even, with the wearing there should be something left over...but nothing.Like the top on the rev shows wearing there is something left over.

Has anyone seen five cents like this where the Denomiation is missing on the reverse?

Is this a US mint Error?

Did the FIVE CENTS and the mint mark go afterwards like the DATE was placed afterwards?

Appreciate your advise and views.

God Bless
Beck.

PS: If you still need more pic please let me know.



Missing-Date-&-Denomination-Buffallo-Nickel

Missing-Date-&-Denomination-Buffallo-Nickel

Missing-Date-&-Denomination-Buffallo-Nickel

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scstrawn's Avatar
United States
536 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  09:31 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scstrawn to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It's not missing, it's just completely worn off. This is exactly the reason why they changed the design. You have a type I nickel (1913) with heavy wear, probably AG3 at best and worth probably $3-4 even in that condition.
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Atlas642's Avatar
United States
562 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  09:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Atlas642 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This coin is a 1913 Type 1 Buffalo nickel and, unfortunately, the date and mintmark have since worn away.

You can tell it's a Type 1 by the mound the Buffalo is standing on. When initially minted in 1913, the denomination of FIVE CENTS and mintmark was on that mound. Partway through the year, Mint officials noticed the denomination and mintmark would wear away rapidly. They authorized a change in design to produce the Type 2 Buffalo nickels, where the Buffalo was standing on a line, protecting the denomination and mintmark from wear.

So, not a Mint error. Just a well-worn example of historical coin design change.
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MickeyBee's Avatar
United States
163 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  09:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MickeyBee to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
WoW! A 1913 Buffallo Nickel. One of the first ones made. I had a feeling it was that. Thanks for your quick reply and advise on the coin.

I see some sort of Doubling in the Rev in E Plubrius area. I don't think DDR has been found of the year.Maybe its worth taking some closeup, huh.
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ChildOfTheWheat's Avatar
United States
5828 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  10:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ChildOfTheWheat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yep, a 1913 type 1! You might want to consider an acid treatment to see if there is a mint mark...
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kakaratt77's Avatar
United States
1414 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  10:43 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kakaratt77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Not worth much at all in that state, the best you can hope for is that it's a 1913 d or s, you need to use acid to bring out the possible MM, no need to treat the date, you know it's a 1913 type 1 already....
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Pete2226's Avatar
United States
3330 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  11:36 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Pete2226 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
You might want to consider an acid treatment to see if there is a mint mark...


I have not heard of this...how does it work?
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kakaratt77's Avatar
United States
1414 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  11:57 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kakaratt77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
There are different methods, the most direct and crude method is to use a q-tip with a drop of Nic-a-Date on it and rub the area gently until you see the details coming through....all it's doing is eating away at the metal and catching the remanence of what was pressed into the coin from the strike....
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coop's Avatar
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  12:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here is what they started out before they were worn down that bad;
Missing-Date-&-Denomination-Buffallo-Nickel
The type 1 is on the mound and the type 2 is on the plain. The difference? The type one is on a raised mound, the type 2 on a straight thinner line.
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Pete2226's Avatar
United States
3330 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  12:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Pete2226 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
There are different methods, the most direct and crude method is to use a q-tip with a drop of Nic-a-Date on it and rub the area gently until you see the details coming through....all it's doing is eating away at the metal and catching the remanence of what was pressed into the coin from the strike....


I doubt there would be much value to a coin to begin with where one would consider using this method. It is hard to imagine whether using acid would then increase the small value...or decrease it because of the damage.
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ChildOfTheWheat's Avatar
United States
5828 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2015  1:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ChildOfTheWheat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If it had a D or an S, it would slightly increase the value because they are rarer dates.

One super effective and easy way to acid soak a buff is to put it in a cup of viniger, and pour hydrogen peroxide in. Should only take a couple of hours. I belive there are several youtube videos about this!
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CoinHuntingDrew's Avatar
United States
4932 Posts
 Posted 07/30/2015  06:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinHuntingDrew to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Worth about $0.12 as is, $0.07 if it wasn't a T2, but that isn't the case.

If there's a D mintmark, you are talking in the range of $0.15 to $0.18.

An S mintmark, around $0.22 to $0.27
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