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Green Copper Corrosion - Chemistry

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KurtS's Avatar
United States
5318 Posts
 Posted 06/06/2008  8:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KurtS to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It's pretty cool to see a mintmark revealed by the process...I did not realize it was at S at first!
I kind of like that "ancient" patina to it now--it doesn't look "too light", but probably still a goner, lol.
Bedrock of the Community
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 Posted 06/07/2008  7:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
You'll see "New Topic", and "New Poll" and then "Reply to Topic". Go there. Once you click on that, a new page will come up with a blank place for you to begin typing. Look at the "Format" area above this where it lets you change the type to "bold", or "Italics" or "Underline" ect....The second one from the right side is an icon that looks like a little piece of paper with a red arrow on it's right side.....


IF this works, thanks eaglefoot. Meanwhile back to chemistry 201.
Bedrock of the Community
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 Posted 06/07/2008  7:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thad: As to the useage of Mineral Spirits. Note that when I did use it, it was a paint thinner type sold at a place called Menards. Since Mineral Spirits can contain numerous other substances, and the coins I tried it on had a greenish discoloration, I am not sure exactly what that substance was. I've noted that around where I live the normal Green substances on anything containing Copper is usually due to the excessive SO and SO2 in the air. We do have a really horrible acid rain problem in the Illinois, Indiana areas. Without a spectroscopic analysis of anything containing a greenish substance in this area and the numerous possibilities of the variations in MS solutions, tabulating exactly reactions would be difficult to say the least. Keep up with your experiments. Eventually I'll print them all out and use them in a chem class.
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ptb's Avatar
United States
128 Posts
 Posted 06/07/2008  11:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ptb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I enjoy reading and learning from this post thus far and look forward to future posts. Thanks BradThad for including us in your process, logic and illustrations.
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BadThad's Avatar
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19965 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2008  7:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm done with this coin. It's hopeless! I let it sit for 12 days and have concluded the current formula is not strong enough for this. I even changed the fluid out everyday, it didn't matter. It seems my suspicion was correct, the verdigris has eaten into the surface. As more and more verdigris was removed, some of the coins detail was "lost". the verdigris was actually filling in the craters. I noticed each time I changed the fluid out it had the distict bluish color characteristic of copper solutions. Along with the verdigirs removal came copper!

Some coins just cannot be saved without resorting to a much harsher cleaning process. I could certainly do that, but it's not really the intent of my fluid. I will no longer be testing on coins this bad, I'm going back to the lighter verdigris specimens.

I've just been too busy lately and I need to get back on track. I have some other ideas for the removal of light verdigris. Perhaps someday I'll work on a much harsher cleaner for these extreme cases.

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 1 day

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 12 days

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

Initial Close

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry


Close up after 12 hours

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

For fun, I just put this coin into 0.02M nitric acid. Bubbles were observed over the surface which confirms the remaining verdigris to be cupric carbonate. I'm going to let it stand in the acid for a few hours (maybe longer) just to see what the surface looks like.
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Edited by BadThad
06/14/2008 7:56 pm
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 Posted 06/14/2008  7:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Double Mint to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Im not a chemist of any sorts but try a anti solution of vinegar. What kind of component neutralizes vinegar. I always thought vedigres was caused by vinegar. Well just a suggestion is all.
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BadThad's Avatar
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19965 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2008  8:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Vinegar is acidic and will damage a copper surface. The acidity is due to acetic acid which will indeed form verdigris in the form of copper acetate. Vinegar can be neutralized with any base, such as sodium hydroxide (aka lye).

I'm soaking the coin in nitric acid, a MUCH better choice than vinegar.
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 Posted 06/14/2008  8:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Double Mint to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thats not what I meant I thought vinegar was bad to coins in long term. I always thought vinegar caused vedigres.
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BadThad's Avatar
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19965 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2008  1:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Back to work again, finally some time! I soaked the 1968S in some dilute nitric acid for a couple of days. It's confirmed this coin is a "goner". The corrosion was so bad even the acid couldn't remove all of it and it's clear to see the coins surface has been eaten away! This is a good example of what a harsh cleaning will do to a copper coin:

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 06/21/2008  1:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
UPDATED!

I'm testing some new formula's. Here's the first on #500-407.

Thanks again to Arthrene for supplying me with these next two test coins!

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 24 hours

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 48 hours

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 48 hours close

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

24 HOUR SUMMARY

I'm extremely pleased with this formula adjustment. The patina is PERFECT. In fact, it looks even better! You can see the true color of the coin now! YAY! I was quite shocked this morning when I checked the progress....just amazing! The only ill effect is not due to my formula, but the underlying oxidation. The verdigris was mostly removed revealing an uneven, different red color. I think it might recover with few months of reoxidation (retoning). Right now, I'm kind of jumping for joy with this formula/coin! It went from a coin that was a basically a cull to one I might consider in a collection if I really needed it.

48 HOURS SUMMARY

This just might be the final formula! It worked very rapidly and completely removed the verdigris. There's a trace of lighter red below the surface of the verdigris, but it looks a LOT better than having green crap covering the coin. I'm going to try and natually retone the coin using the window sill method.
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Edited by BadThad
06/23/2008 5:39 pm
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BadThad's Avatar
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19965 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2008  1:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The second forumla 500409 also is looking pretty good. However, it's back to the white residue reaction product I was getting earlier.

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 24 hours

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

SUMMARY

I had such luck with the last formula, I'm not overly excited by this one. It did a decent job, but the white verdigris is fairly persistant. I need to get this onto my SEM-EDXRF to confirm my suspeciions that this residue is cupric carbonate. It's deinately more difficult to remove than the sulfate/acetate verdigris.
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Edited by BadThad
06/21/2008 2:44 pm
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scmoore61's Avatar
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487 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2008  2:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scmoore61 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
bad thad I'll take a pint of whatever you used on the 73
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arthrene's Avatar
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1713 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2008  9:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add arthrene to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wow Thad! The 1973 looks great! Thanks for keeping us posted!
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chevrolet454ss's Avatar
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314 Posts
 Posted 06/22/2008  09:33 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chevrolet454ss to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Badthad,

That 1973 penny I think the white or green can removed no problem. My idea was to use an knife or pick tool. Carefully cut or scrap the green or white off the coin. It can be done but the quastion is what will it look like afterwards.

The 1968s penny you say is toast can be fixed in about 10 secords diping it Murtic acid or pool cleaner. It will eat the green off.

After diped in the m acid the coins will look bright copper again like brand new but not mint state. Can you make them brown again and how do you that again in an short time?

Chevrolet454ss
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BadThad's Avatar
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19965 Posts
 Posted 06/22/2008  1:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Badthad,

That 1973 penny I think the white or green can removed no problem. My idea was to use an knife or pick tool. Carefully cut or scrap the green or white off the coin. It can be done but the quastion is what will it look like afterwards.

The 1968s penny you say is toast can be fixed in about 10 secords diping it Murtic acid or pool cleaner. It will eat the green off.

After diped in the m acid the coins will look bright copper again like brand new but not mint state. Can you make them brown again and how do you that again in an short time?


That using a pick tool or acid will permanently damage the coin! My goal is to remove verdigris in a gentle, but somewhat rapid fashion WITHOUT damaging the coin at all. Also, I want to leave the brown, oxidized surface intact. My method is conservation not cleaning...... in similar fashion to what NCS might do. With my knowledge of chemistry and metalworking fluids, I think I can do it.
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Edited by BadThad
06/22/2008 1:41 pm
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