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Replies: 93 / Views: 13,222 |
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Moderator
 United States
189029 Posts |
Quote: Hard to top that texile, but here is mine Lovely! 
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Valued Member
United States
73 Posts |
Hi All. I've been busy with other hobbies (such as taking care of 13 peach trees that have lots of green fruit so far, then the harvest in June :) and improvements to my rainwater harvesting system at my household). But I had a chance to pick up a couple more Peace dollars at a coin shop in Austin yesterday:     About 14 more to go to finish the series...Then I may upgrade. There was a nice toned 1923 coin at the shop yesterday, but I already had that dated coin, and my objective is to first complete the series and go from there...
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Moderator
 United States
189029 Posts |
Quote: But I had a chance to pick up a couple more Peace dollars at a coin shop in Austin yesterday: Very nice! 
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Valued Member
United States
114 Posts |
Those are some incredible toned examples. I looked for a while but could only see the artificially toned stuff. Blech For me the milk spots on many Peace dollars are a big turnoff, but otherwise I am a fan of the design and think it's a very underrated coin design. Here's my preciousss. :) 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10038 Posts |
While I have some Peace dollars, I never seriously was after the complete set. As has been said - flat design and poorly struck. They always just looked too flat to me. Here is a fascinating read on how the Peace dollar design was almost something different. http://www.moonlightmint.com/blog_19.htmThe article also tells of an amazing ebay find by Daniel Carr and how he used it to make some overstrikes of what could have been. I have one of the fantasy overstirke 1917s and have to admit it is my favorite of my Peace dollars b/c of the high relief as opposed to any original coins. Its better in hand.  
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1346 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1192 Posts |
Coinjem - good idea pursuing a Peace dollar set, I think they are a nice sleeper series. If you are getting those for $20 or so it's probably not a bad deal but I would highly suggest looking for original surface coins vs ones that have been cleaned. I find those tiny scratches distracting and you can buy BU of the common years for under $30. Just a suggestion, as I think you will be happier in the long run going that route. Good luck with the set!
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Moderator
 United States
189029 Posts |
Quote: Here's my preciousss. :) Lovely! 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
719 Posts |
The same reason some prefer strawberry over chocolate - the mystery of preferences of the senses. That is about as subjective as one can get, however, there may be some that can point out objective reasons why the eye appeal is not there for the Peace dollar vs other designs.
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Valued Member
United States
73 Posts |
LibertyEagle20 wrote: Quote:Coinjem - good idea pursuing a Peace dollar set, I think they are a nice sleeper series. If you are getting those for $20 or so it's probably not a bad deal but I would highly suggest looking for original surface coins vs ones that have been cleaned. I find those tiny scratches distracting and you can buy BU of the common years for under $30. Just a suggestion, as I think you will be happier in the long run going that route. Good luck with the set! Thanks for that suggestion. I will take that into consideration. I am not sure if I can tell the difference between a cleaned coin and "original surface" coins. I could ask the coin shop(s) dealer and hope they know, but a few I've bought from ebay and those sellers may not relate if the coin has been cleaned in their item description. My amateurish eyes may not be able to tell from the pictures of the coin posted on ebay. The coin pics I posted above do show a lot more defects compared to how they look in hand. Is there a thread that compares cleaned coins to original finish? What does one look for to tell the difference?
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CCF Advertiser
United States
1533 Posts |
You should go to a coin show and find dealers that will educate you. We all have cleaned coins as well as original coins. If you see a few verified examples, you'll be able to tell. On cleaned coins, the color is off, there are hairlines in the fields, the luster may be muted. Even coins that were dipped once will not tone naturally and will be recognizable as cleaned once they start to retone.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1192 Posts |
Coinjem here is a recent post to demonstrate how hard it is to identify a lightly cleaned coin. http://goccf.com/t/319043I struggle knowing if small scratches are from normal circulation or cleaning. The 1934 you posted is a good example of an easily identifiable cleaned coin. IMO that is pretty obviously cleaned due to the very high number of scratches. Again this post is not meant to discourage you though as you should collect what you like. I just don't want to see you get taken advantage of and sold a cleaned coin at a high price! To make matters worse, it's extremely tough to tell if a coin is cleaned by looking at online pictures alone. Some folks opt to buy coins graded by NGC,PCGS, ANACS to reduce the risk of a cleaned coin. The graders are human too though and they even make mistakes!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1346 Posts |
Today I freed a 1934S from an ICG AU58 slab. No way I could justify this being a 58. 55 at best, likely 53. I've been working on a mylar flip collection. While I have the easy ones in better TPG slabs, the slabs don't do much for me in grades MS 65 and lower, and for me, much lower is forcast. So here's some pics (I hope)  In the slab  Slab cracked  Coin freed and in flip  With its new friends, LR coin Best I can do with my phone camera and side window light .............. Edit: I see I can do with much smaller images.
Edited by 999fine 07/22/2018 5:16 pm
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Moderator
 United States
189029 Posts |
Quote: Today I freed a 1934S from an ICG AU58 slab... Very nice! 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1346 Posts |
Edited by 999fine 07/24/2018 2:25 pm
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Replies: 93 / Views: 13,222 |