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Replies: 528 / Views: 87,310 |
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
Do you guys mind if I jump in? Hope not. Here goes. Tried coin photography 4 months ago. Argh! Went back to chasing coins. Now almost out of money! So need to focus on coin photography again. My intent is to id VAMs and eventually other varieties on various coins. Many thanks for any help given! Okay: Have old black/white enlarger with bellows of 6" and a rodenstock 50 mm lens attached to it. Have canon 7d camera... 1st digital from canon- has film connector type mount rather than new digital mount Have old canon ae1 with 50mm, a 80-200mm, a 24 mm and 3 compatible 2x macro converter: not compatible with 7d camera Have tripod. Need adapters for camera to lens and ? If this won't work or any part won't, that's fine because I got it all for under $15. Willing to spend money to have proper set up. Would like to focus on Morgans first. And am hoping to have a dedicated set up. Also have Pringles can which I'm going to try adapting for Macro shots. Have any of you done this or know anyone who was successful doing it? I have pieces but don't want to smash up a good filter if it does not work well. Any help is appreciated. I am a novice to all this but I am a good researcher so if I don't understand, I can usually find guidance online. Also, I'm pretty thrifty so ebay is a good way to go!
Edited by Kellyk 12/06/2012 10:48 pm
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
Sounds like you got a great El Cheapo deal on all that stuff! I am not sure how you might attach the camera to the bellows. I have not tried to do that. It may be a challenge to adapt. For VAM photos, you probably want 2-4x magnification depending on what types of die markers you are photographing. You can get this with the 50mm lens and bellows, but you've got to mount the camera. Now, I assume your camera is not a 7D, which is a fairly recent 18MP DSLR. Can you confirm the camera model?
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
Correct as usual, rmpsrpms. Wishful thinking on my part. The canon 7d is the one I like: the canon 10 d is the one I have. It is an older version. Glad to hear I have most of what I need! Last time, I used yr suggestion to combine 2 lenses ( one was in reverse) and I used lots of surgical tape to connect them. I used camera strap to secure the camera. I can play around with that. I'm thinking if I add felt and cushioning to the metal top of the bellows, I can have the camera lens rest on that. So would I "build" it by camera, bellows and 50 mm lens already on bellows? Would that work just to get an idea as to what I am doing? I'm thinking I'll experiment btwn now and when you answer. What fun! Just reread yr thread. Looks like that is what I do! How exciting! I already have what I need! You just made my week. Now off to play!
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
You're going to need an adapter (probably) to attach the camera to the bellows. But with that accomplished, and some twiddling on your part, I think you're going to be rather happy with what your 10D-bellows-Rodenstock 50 will accomplish.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
As SD said, you probably want to attach the camera to bellows with an adapter. You might get by on experimental basis with duct tape but once you like how it works an adapter will be a must-have. For now, I'm just interested in seeing what you are able to do! Post some images once you have it working.
One thing you stated needs consideration: "if I add felt and cushioning to the metal top of the bellows, I can have the camera lens rest on that". In the setup that I think you will be best suited with, the camera does not have a lens. It uses the bellows and 50mm as the lens. Later in your post you say "camera, bellows and 50mm lens" which is what should be correct, no lens between camera and bellows.
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
Beautiful! I just reassembled the stand and am grabbing my camera with no lens. Even if it does not work, I'm having a blast!
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
 Here is my favorite pic of new set up. I forget what camera settings were but I shot it in P on manual settings... SDave could you interpret to camera language? thanks!... and used timer with hand held camera. I'm pretty excited for my little project. Open to any and all suggestions as to make it better... Thanks over and over again for all yr help!
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
Okay, I ordered my Jansjo lights and they'll be shipped Monday. I reread my notes from a few months ago. I do have a question about bellows. Ray, , I see you often recommend a 75mm lens. With optical lens, the higher magnification, the smaller the field. Is this true for bellows also? If at a later date, I wanted to switch to a lens with a broader field, would I go to a lower mm lens? I feel so ignorant. Is the purpose of the bellows to get a clear, super macro picture? Kind of like a telescope to increase the distance between the lenses... I think I'll go google bellows and photography so I can have a basic understanding of what I'm doing.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
Kelly...60mm-120mm is the range that is useable for full-coin shots on bellows. This is due to range of both minimum and maximum extensions most bellows are capable of. If the lens is too short, then the minimum bellows length won't allow low enough magnification to image Dollars or larger coins. If the lens is too long, then the maximum extension won't allow high enough magnification to image Dimes or smaller coins. I usually restrict the range I recommend to 75mm-105mm in order to be safe. Remember that in general, longer lens = longer working distance = lower magnification. I like my setups to be compact, and I concentrate my collecting and thus my photography on Cents, so I lean toward shorter lenses, thus 75mm is the sweet spot for me. Some folks concentrate on Dollars, and for them the sweet spot is probably 105mm. Note that my comments apply to full-coin imaging only, as high magnification for imaging varieties requires changes to the setup, but the same principles apply: higher magnification = shorter lens = shorter working distance...Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Valued Member
United States
255 Posts |
Thanks Ray. Very clearly stated, too! I did do some reading on google and am getting a fuller understanding. We have had holiday parties and now our two most active grandkids are here. When they go home tonight, I'll get to go play with setup again!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
I have had the bellow set up for about a week now, and just now daring to take some pictures. I just grabbed the first coin out of my dollar box for a test These first two picture are from the way I was taking pictures. Put the canon camera on the tripod with two regular desk lamps and snapped them. Then used Picasa3 to crop and auto color.   The next pictures of with the bellows. Camera set on aperture priority. I think the camera chose 50 for the shutter. The crop and auto color with Picasa. And switched to Jansjo lamps.  I changed the camera setting to shutter priority (tv) and I think it took the pictures at 125. the cropped and auto color in Picasa3.   All the above pictures were taken with the 80mm. The bellows was almost closed all the way and the lens was about a foot above the coin. I then tried trying to get closer to the coin.  There was a satin nickel sitting on my desk .. so I thought I would see how that turned out.  From what I can tell so far .. I will have much to learn before I can get the quality pictures I see the experts posting.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
4038 Posts |
Not a bad start. The Nickel shot is especially nice and shows the level of sharpness the lens is capable of. Most of the work in coin photography is getting the lighting right. Your original shots had a nice even look, though without the luster presentation of the new shots. I think you'll find a happy medium perhaps with a bit of diffusion on the Jansjos. I also recommend you stay on aperture priority with the manual setup, or go to full manual. Shutter priority, although it came out with a better result, is really just manual with auto ISO. What you should probably try is manual ISO at 100, and Aperture priority, and then make sure your metering method gives you the exposure you like. You can monitor this in Live View on the PC screen to make sure, and adjust your EV compensation if the auto adjustments are too dark or too light.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Thanks Ray .. I will have to study all you said .. and try some of those settingson my next session.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
And please lose that gaudy background color. It literally hurts the eyes and is a major distraction to focusing on the coin.
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Replies: 528 / Views: 87,310 |