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More Experiments With Micro-Axial Lighting.

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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 04/27/2024  2:09 pm Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this topic Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
So in my miniature axial photo setup—which I learned how to make on these very forums—I have a persistent problem where the coin section nearest to the angled glass receives more light. My setup previously had the little box about 6-8" from the daylight bulb, which was filtered with tissues. This latest attempt moves the axial box 18-24" away from the light. I dangle an additional one tissue ply halfway between the bulb and the box.

The light distribution is somewhat more even, but it has not eliminated the darker area completely. Still a work in progress.



Obverse has the top of the head closest to the glass. Reverse has the left side of Monticello closest to the glass.
Edited by Brandmeister
04/27/2024 2:11 pm
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ijn1944's Avatar
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 Posted 04/27/2024  2:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ijn1944 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looking pretty decent, yes.
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 Posted 04/27/2024  2:57 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply



I remembered that when building the prototype box out of LEGOs, I had determined that they are not actually square. 1x1 LEGO bricks are slightly taller than wide. I snapped some together and made ruler and protractor measurements. Some diagrams and geometry later (I hope you are proud, Mr. Burkhardt!), I can see that the 10 degree deflection might be a factor here.

Close to the glass, the light rays have a much smaller delta-x. At the far end, they have a more considerable delta-x. That might not seem important, except that the camera hole in the box is much smaller in diameter than a dime. Also, a clip-on macro lens for an iPad isn't the same as a true camera macro lens. In the camera, the lens is much further from the CCD, so peripheral light that strikes the border of the lens can still reflect down the tube and reach the sensor. Here, with the lens almost right up against the camera, only the center of the lens really matters.

I am wondering if I can elevate the bottom edge of the glass ever so slightly to get closer to 45 degrees, and see if that makes a significant difference. I bet it will, since it's obvious that the coin area closest to the glass has much better illumination.
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Hondo Boguss's Avatar
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 Posted 04/27/2024  5:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Hondo Boguss to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What about moving the glass up (increasing the distance between the glass and coin)?
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 05/01/2024  01:07 am  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would do that, but the clip-on macro lens has a fixed focal distance. The iPad autofocus can compensate a small amount, but I built the box to basically optimize for a nickel filling most of the frame.

Tonight I tried to modify the angle slightly towards 45. The light did fall across the surface a bit better. Still needs work.


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BStrauss3's Avatar
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 Posted 05/01/2024  08:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BStrauss3 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Try raising the light source and tipping it a tiny bit - so the angle from the light to the glass to the coin is closer to 90 degrees. Just a guess.
-----Burton
50 year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973)
Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA
Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, OnLine Coin Club
Owned by four cats and a wife of 40 years (joined 1983)
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