How To Identify Pre-Decimal Proofs.

CoinManTim: You are quite correct; they do not obviously appear as proofs because the fields are not polished.

Sometimes, it requires an expert to identify a proof from an absolutely perfect gem grade circulation strike of the same date and type, but if you do get a chance to compare, the quality of strike of the proof looks better.

The only pre decimal proof that obviously appears to be a proof is the florin of 1959. The reason for this is that proofs were made after the production of the circulation coins was complete. It was discovered that after the circulation coins were produced, a flaw in the master hub was found, and all of the emus in the circulation florins have an 'egg' at their feet.

This was corrected on the master hub for that date, and the proof die taken from it, to produce the proof coins. The proof florins for 1959 were the only ones that do not have the 'egg' between the emu's feet. 1506 proof florins were struck.

Absolute gem uncirculated pre decimal issued coins are probably scarcer than the proofs anyway. I have seen plenty of proofs over the years, and lots of uncirculated pre decimal coins as well. But absolute gem condition circulation coins with a perfect strike?......that's quite another matter. I have seen only a few, but I suspect that such coins are rarer than the proofs.

Actually the proof dies of the predecimal proofs were polished!!
The Canberra decimal proofs have the high points of the dies (all but the fields) sandblasted to give a cameo effect.
The 1955-63 series of Melbourne mint proofs were all struck with just polished dies - things to look for are the reflective fields, the square rims, the near perfect strike. The complication is that the Melbourne mint sometimes used chrome plated dies. These give the coin nice flat fields and are refletive, but less so than the proofs.
For the Perth Mint copper; the 1955-57 coins were struck with polished dies. The 1955Y penny has a unique die combination [obverse 9 coupled with reverse with narrow date] so could be identified even if heavily worn. The others can be picked by the nice wide rims, strength of strike and colour. Proofs dies from 1957-1963 were deliberately frosted on the fields and are extremely easy to pick. (Yes you get both types for 1957 pennies).

sel_69l, am I understand you right, that for example this link represents not the true stoty, where 1958 sh CH/UNC worth 25$ and 1958 sh proof worth 10 times more?
I am new to aussie coins, but I really excited about them and desperate about any info)

upd here is the link I noticed!
http://www.australianstamp.com/coin...1958shil.htm