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Replies: 20 / Views: 3,259 |
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
SuperDave, you may be onto something... If I set WB with a lens directly attached to my D5000, then reassemble the bellows setup, given the same lighting conditions - will this work? Will definitely give this a try tonight...
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Well, I use Adobe Camera Raw, and that has a white balance setting. If you take a picture of a gray card and then open that file in ACR, there is an eye dropper tool you can use to measure the white balance. You can then create a preset to use on the coin photos you take under the same lighting conditions.
If you're really ambitious and have a Macbeth ColorChecker or similar chart, you can construct a more elaborate profile to correct for camera/lens/lighting combinations.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: SuperDave, you may be onto something... If I set WB with a lens directly attached to my D5000, then reassemble the bellows setup, given the same lighting conditions - will this work? Will definitely give this a try tonight... Using my Canon, Jansjos balance nicely using the Tungsten preset, and the worst I ever have to do is back the Yellow hue off slightly in postprocessing. And Canon is infamous for misinterpreting tungsten in the presets.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
Just to update on the things I have tried last night. A bit later I will post some images to demonstrate the results.
The issue with white balance. First I have tried Captain's suggestion on fixing white balance in RAW editor, but probably due to my novice experience with software, I was not satisfied with results - not a true coin color. But it was a good experience, I will definitely look into it in the future.
Second, I have tried to do white balance with my camera and a stock lens under the same lighting conditions. I was able to set it only in Aperture Priority mode (Manual was giving me the same error). However, when I have reattached my camera to bellows and snapped some pictures, the color was still not quite right.
Thirdly, I have continued to try different settings with my set up, and voila - White Balance calibration worked. I have set aperture wide open (f 3.5), extended bellows to the maximum height - finally getting White Balance to calibrate correctly.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
So perhaps, even though it looked correct to you, the lighting was not evenly spread over the entire field the camera was seeing. By extending the bellows most fully, you're achieving maximum magnification and therefore the smallest-possible field of view.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
SuperDave, I guess what I have learned is that my D5000 will refuse to calibrate White Balance if there is not enough light. By opening up the aperture to the maximum, and raising the camera so it can absorb more light did the trick. Also, I could not find "tungsten" setting on my Nikon, and all presets are throwing a lot of yellows and reds.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
OK, as promised some images which should indicate my work-flow progress. As I was experimenting with Axial lighting, this is White Balance that my camera decided was the closest one based on "auto" setting. Keep in mind - this is not a Gold coin, just a Silver Walker :)  As I mentioned in my earlier posts, I had a really tough time setting a custom "measure" setting for White Balance on my Nikon D5000 with bellows setup. It was throwing an error on each and every attempt. So I thought I would try to attach a stack lens to my camera and attempt to white balance under the same lighting conditions. After a successful attempt, I have reassemble my bellows and snapped this picture:  Still not there... After another half an hour or trial an error, I have set the aperture on my lens (attached to bellows) wide open to f 3.5, cranked up my camera to the highest allowable position on my bellows, and voila - White Balance adjustment worked! Here is the first picture I took at f3.5  Again, the same Axial setup, f4  And f5.6  Now, that I got the White Balance to work, I was not happy with the contrast of the image (coin seems to lost its fire), so I have changed my lighting to two overhead Jansjos, slightly diffused. This image was taken with 2 diffused Jansjos at high angle, same height as the lens  This image was taken with 2 diffused Jansjos at low angle, about 1/3 of a distance from coin to lens  This image was taken with 2 diffused Jansjos at medium angle, about 3/4 of a distance from coin to lens  This image was taken with 2 diffused Jansjos at medium angle, about 1/2 of a distance from coin to lens  This image was taken with 2 diffused Jansjos at high angle, about 1/3 of a distance from coin to lens  Which of these images has most potential? Any pointers / suggestions for improvement?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8521 Posts |
I like 4th one from bottom.
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
I like the medium angle ones.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
I prefer the high angle ones, and my favorite of the lot is 5th from bottom. It needs a bit of levels correction (gamma) and it will look very good.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
You can pretty much generalize that "the greater the luster, the higher the angle" will give you best contrast. I rarely go as much as 30 degrees from vertical for any coin.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
I actually liked the top and third pictures best myself (High and medium lighting I am guessing)
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
Guys, thank your for your recommendations and ideas. Here is a modified shot I took last night. I have used an a slightly different diffuser on my two Jansjos (positioned 2 and 10). I have also used Omeragon 75 mm lens (as opposed to Spiratone Flat Field Macro 75mm lens in previous shots) I think I am settled on as close to 90 degrees as possible shot (thank you SuperDave). Since I am shooting raw coins for now this seems to be the best angle for my set up. I have positioned the lights at the height of the lens.   Ray, I am not sure what Gamma Levels are... I have checked the settings in RAW editor, but when I have tried to change them - I have not noticed any changes on the image.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
Bryan,
The first four images were taken with axial lighting. Even though I like the details, these shots do not represent the coin look well, the coin is shiny with a lot of luster. This is why I have decided to go with the overhead lights.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Quote: Ray, I am not sure what Gamma Levels are... I have checked the settings in RAW editor, but when I have tried to change them - I have not noticed any changes on the image. Your editor probably has a "shadows" adjustment. This is a form of gamma adjustment. Adjust it to brighten the shadows without affecting the highlights.
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