| Author |
Replies: 16 / Views: 4,328 |
Page 2 of 2
|
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
France
1591 Posts |
Good news : they all look genuine to me :) * The first one is from Potosi, essayer B (which is the most common one) , and was minted during the reign of Felipe II. * The second one is from Potosi, essayer T (early period, he did most of his coins under Felipe IV), and was minded during the reign of Felipe III in 1619. That one is interesting, as my documentation says that the separation between P and T in that date transitioned from a greek cross (which you have) to a dot. * The last one has not much information. If it's from Potosi as the others, it was minted before 1629 (where the VIII denomination became a 8). But the style (missing dots, shield look) makes me think it comes from another place :)
Hope that helps !
|
|
New Member
 Serbia (Srbija)
33 Posts |
@MathieuMa
Thanks for the reply.
Does anyone know anything about this green patina? I've seen it on pictures of some other cobs, but I don't know how the coin got it, are these shipwreck coins?
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
They look pretty good in pictures - but that is often the problem.
So I need to find out what you have done to check them.
1. Did you weigh them and is the weight reasonable for the denomination?
2. Did you do a simple ring test? Do they sound like silver?
3. Did you examine the surfaces and especially the edges looking for evidence of a casting seam or the removal of a seam? Did you see any evidence of post strike clipping or filing?
5. Have you done specific gravity tests on the 8Rs?
If an 8R weighs about 26.5-27 grams you are off to a good start. If the coin is overweight be suspicious. If it is underweight you need to figure out WHY. Did you see any silver removal? A very underweight coin may be fake.
If the coin also rings like good silver - much better. A coin that will NOT ring or that thuds is BAD. If it feels greasy it could contain zinc.
The key test among the older ones is Specific Gravity which has been used since 1830 all over the world to detect forgeries. Struck (hammered silver will be about 10.3 at 90% pure). A coin that tests 10.1 or under or 10.4 or higher is a forgery.
The tests outlined above are all that was used when dollar coins were circulating at intrinsic value. That is all you really needed until the 20th century.
Recently silver forgeries meant to fool collectors have appeared. So even if your coin passes ALL of the 4 tests you could still have a modern fake.
Unless you can match the die type it is difficult to be 100% certain what you have unless you spend the money for scientific study.
Tests like XRF or SEM will determine if modern silver was used. Modern silver usually contains trace contaminants not found in silver refined before 1830. That silver also MUST contain other trace contaminants or it did not come from a refinery before 1830. If the forger used period silver even XRF could be defeated.
XRF tests can cost $50 or more per test. So they are not cheap and are usually reserved for coins in the hundreds of dollar range.
The days of eyeballing a coin and being certain are fading fast. Science needs to replace guess work.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1962 Posts |
Like Mathieu said, two are Potosi (modern Bolivia): -- P B (yes, Philip II - the design did not yet include the date, but this is from the 1590s) -- P T, which is 1619 as mentioned (only the 9 is visible, but style confirms 1619). The 3rd piece is mainland Spain, Seville mint by style... date not visible but it's from the 1620's-1630s (pretty much the most common type of the peninsular pieces that you encounter) Of course, Bob's (5) evaluation points about what to look for are all accurate and will confirm, but I would say there's little doubt these are genuine. One thing with cobs and weight... they're not always perfect and can be either low OR high as made. The 8R cobs of this period "should be" a tad over 27.4g as made... In practice (for this early 1600's period, from Mexico, Potosi, and Spain), you find legit pieces that are in the low 28.x gram range even with a little wear, and others that are similarly underweight. Old clipping could of course can also result in low weights... Some of the 1640's Potosi pieces (where there was a lot of funny business with the silver content) can weight 29.x grams (of much lower than official fineness silver). But like Bob said... anything WAY underweight, especially where the proportion of design doesn't indicate clipping, is of course suspect. A good example... blames the low weight on silver being shaved off. Uh, no... it's a cast: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spanish-8-R...271170839041
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1962 Posts |
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
realeswatcherI do not quite understand what you mean by this? Quote: Bob, someone at NGC is way ahead of you NGC has not ever gone past eyeball and they only go part way. But they keep the fee for a body bag.
|
|
New Member
 Serbia (Srbija)
33 Posts |
@swamperbob, @realeswatcher, thanks for the replies.
Weight is ok, 26.8-27.0 grams, it is silver >= 90% (I've got the coins from the goldsmith who bought them as junk silver!?), and I couldn't find obvious traces of casting under 10x magnification, it has some tiny holes and irregularities but these are not uncommon for this type of coin because of environmental damage.
I was somewhat confused because of the patina, I've seen the green patina on silver coins that comes from the copper but have never seen this green/blue variant of patina.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1962 Posts |
The blue patina - you mean those splotches? Looks like some sort of foreign substance on the surface. Acetone might remove that...
And a melt pile save?! Good job... God bless the clueless in the year 2013. One thing, the 1619 (and I think also the Seville) piece are ex-jewelry... Potosi 1619 has a stripped hole, Seville piece looks to have some type of ex-mount (see cross side). Stlll great buys, though.
-----
Bob, yes, slabbers generally only eyeball... and you said "the days of eyeballing a coin and being certain are fading fast." Indeed, in the case of those two bodybagged Mex. cobs, the grader has reached that point :->
A little sarcasm at NGC's expense, as their amateur hour seems to carry on...
|
|
New Member
 Serbia (Srbija)
33 Posts |
Yes, it is quite possible that this is ex-jewelry, people in this part of Europe have strange habit of putting holes in coins and then wear them as jewelry, I've seen beautiful and extremely valuable coins destroyed that way...
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
Quote: Weight is ok, 26.8-27.0 grams, it is silver >= 90% (I've got the coins from the goldsmith who bought them as junk silver!?), Here you have made a major error - you are accepting the word of someone else instead of doing the test for yourself. How do you know they are silver? How did he know? A surface test would NOT work on a thick plate. He didn't cut them did he? Acid would not only damage the coin's surface but presumes a uniform alloy. There is NO WAY TO SEE INSIDE a coin without cutting it open. SG lets you get a good approximation of what is inside without cutting. So back to basics - what is the SG?
|
|
New Member
 Serbia (Srbija)
33 Posts |
I've done a lot of trades with that particular goldsmith, you wouldn't believe what the people are selling as junk silver/gold... Anyway, it's trusted source and guy has decades of experience with silver/gold.
Silver has specific gravity of 10490 kg/m3, unlike gold that is easy to emulate, you can make alloy of lead/tin at home that has specific gravity between 10100 and 10400. Anyway I don't have equipment for measuring specific gravity, I work usually with modern coins which are easy to measure and compare.
Even XRF analysis can be fooled, one of my colleagues told me that the best fakes of Roman coins from Bulgaria includes melting original common Roman coins with small value and then making fake strikes (not casts!) of rare coins with that alloy.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
You may trust the seller and that is fine but his test is done for scrap purposes and is not all that accurate. I work part time for a shop that takes in all forms of jewelry, gems, flat-wear and coins for melt. The accuracy is quite "approximate" and is more tied to making a profit on re-sale to a refiner based on volume and timing than on accurate assessment of actual alloy. The tests routinely used can have a variance from correct of almost 10%. That is simply NOT accurate enough for coin authentication.  If you do not have a scale accurate to 1/100th of a grams (all that you need for SG tests) - drop everything and GET ONE. In this day you can not afford to be without one.  Quote: Silver has specific gravity of 10490 kg/m3, unlike gold that is easy to emulate, you can make alloy of lead/tin at home that has specific gravity between 10100 and 10400 If you know the SG of a coin and do a ring test - YOU CAN NOT BE FOOLED by a core composed of a tin/lead mix. Those DO NOT RING. There is no 10.3 density metal (struck coin silver) that provides a ring in addition to the correct SG. At least not one that was routinely used to make counterfeits. With gold it is tungsten you have to watch for. The SG of silver you quote (10.49) is elemental silver not struck coin silver (mixed theoretically with about 10% copper). Quote: Even XRF analysis can be fooled, one of my colleagues told me that the best fakes of Roman coins from Bulgaria includes melting original common Roman coins with small value and then making fake strikes (not casts!) of rare coins with that alloy. I know many dealers and forgers who want you to believe that. When you melt an old coin there are a few problems - the retort you use and the furnace lining can actually alter the alloy in terms of volatiles and trace contaminants. So you need to use methods that are identical to the period in which the coin was actually made. One of the 8Rs I had tested with XRF came up with a metal trace contaminant that is used in modern furnace linings that was not even isolated as a metal when the coin was supposedly made and which is an element that NEVER occurs in native Mexican metal deposits. Also if the forgers melt a coin from the wrong area or a coin that had been re-coined a few times as ancient silver was prone to be - the alloy will be WRONG in terms of trace contaminants. XRF can not authenticate Roman coins at present because contamination from long periods of burial have altered the coin's chemistry. But a scanning electron microscope can easily detect a re-melted coin. XRF is a laboratory technique that is only one of a series of potential tests that can authenticate or debunk an artifact. That is a mistake made by many coin "experts" who want to (or better still wish to) discount XRF testing. XRF discloses far more than major components of the alloy - in fact for the copper silver ratio SG and XRF produce rather similar results. But for things like iridium or yttrium or cadmium there is only XRF. For an authenticator - the question that remains is are these oddball metals supposed to be there? Are there metals that simply CAN NOT be there? Are there others that MUST be there? This is a new area of study and XRF and allied laboratory tests are the future for authentication. Also when a forger melts an old worn coin there is an inevitable effect on zinc or mercury contaminants which boil off on re-melting. Then there is surface contamination from processing the planchet. It is far less simple than it seems. XRF is not just a list of elements. It requires an interpretation of the list compared to a database of lists from other examples which provide the conclusion. DO NOT SELL SCIENTIFIC TESTING SHORT. Once it gets popular - there will be hundreds or even thousands of fakes discovered in TPG slabs. XRF and some of the others look right through the plastic holder as if it was NOT there. I know the money involved with TPGs and big dealers who have a lot to lose, may cause things to be held back, but XRF test results will if allowed to mature provide a much better method of authentication than has ever previously existed from the dawn of time.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
France
1591 Posts |
swamperbob : dropping everything is a good idea indeed, I would have checked that plated chihuahua cast ... Could you please point us to relatively cheap and accurate scales ? If possible, with international shipping to make it easier :)
Thanks !
|
|
New Member
 Serbia (Srbija)
33 Posts |
@swamperbob
Thanks for detailed information about XRF and coin authentication.
Based on the info so far, I'm relatively confident these are authentic coins, but I'll probably check them with some high profile coin dealer, maybe slab them for auction.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
My current primary scale came from ebay but you need to be very selective. Know what you want and keep looking until you find one that matches your needs EXACTLY. Over the past 30 years I have had 4 mechanical scales of different levels of accuracy (three are still in good working condition - 3 beam, 4 beam and analytical balances and numerous digital versions. The only "broken" scale is one I got 15 years ago that had a spring dial. Those look convenient which is why I got one BUT the spring stretches and the scale is inherently inaccurate. I found it to be hard to adjust and temperature sensitive. Digital scales are usually NO GOOD either because of inherent inaccuracies. Read the paperwork that comes with most scales and be prepared for a shock. I once saw a scale (electronic from China) that had a readout to 3 decimal places of a gram. Looked like 3 decimal places of accuracy. That's good RIGHT? Well no - in the fine print it said accuracy guaranteed to 2% of weight. So on a 27 gram object that equates to a 0.54 gram a range or +/- HALF a GRAM. Digital scales to be accurate will set you back $500 at the least. Cheaper digital scales will simply not be reliable. Mechanical scales have no parts that can go bad except the knife edge of the balance. They last as long as you do not abuse them. Look for Ohaus type scales (school and college labratory types). They appear in sheriff sales too. Drug dealers use them so they can be really cheap at sheriff sales. Just check them out with standard weighs - make sure they zero and repeat each weight test 3 times. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OHAUS-700-8...330893142735This is a typical 1/10th gram scale - high school level scale - adequate for about 10% of fineness. This was the average standard level of accuracy in 1830 and was about as accurate as the Chinese schroffs were capable of determining. This effectively set the level of accuracy required for the Class 2 forgeries. A forgery above 800 fine will not be readily detected with this scale but coins that are debased lower than 800 fine will be recognizable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OHAUS-DIAL-...190814034011That one is the dial type that I do not recommend. However the FREE arm feature is great for SG tests of coins. That is what this scale is made for. I just do not like the spring feature. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohaus-Explo...300877998240This a top of the line digital scale with the draft tight box required to get to 1/1000 g accuracy. But it is not set up for SG testing and you would need to devise an apparatus. NOT RECOMMENDED AT ALL. The scale you really want that is good for all around work is one like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OHaus-Cent-...370779762283This particular example NEEDS CALIBRATION - in other words you probably need to replace the knife edge because it is no longer accurate. So unless you are good at re-building mechanical things get a better one - but it is the best type. Accurate to 1/100 gram. That reduces the range of error to +/- 5/1000ths or plus or minus about 1.25% fineness. It will detect a debased coin that is 880 fine. Here is the same scale new and under warranty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OHAUS-Cent-...290751031529This is the type scale I use under normal circumstances - the accuracy is typical mint standard. If you can not detect a debased coin with this scale it meets mint standards. I do not own a new analytical scale because I still do not trust digital. The older analytical Boxed scales are now classed as antiques. It is the type I used in college in 1966. I have not seen one for sale in 10 years or more. But the Ohaus 311g is available all the time. It is a typical scale seen in Freshman labs in college.
|
|
Page 2 of 2
|
Replies: 16 / Views: 4,328 |
Page 2 of 2
|