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 Replies: 17 / Views: 2,474 |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
It all depends on the extent of the edge damage. If significant those coins would grade details like mentioned if its insignificant sometimes they grade sometimes they dont. As far as I know theres no standard formula for it and its taken on a case by case basis for the extent of the damage. the best way to approach it may just be to treat it as its own category in the sense of is it bad enough to cause a details grade or not
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
Quote:
I found such a coin at a great deal (steal) if graded on front and back only but how much should you devalue due to the "third side"? Is it worse than a scratch on the front or back? Rim issues have to be evaluated on a case by case basis. Your question above is clear though. A rim ding that is only visible from the edge would not hurt the grade as much as an obverse/reverse scratch. Pictures will let us know what you really have grade wise. |
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Valued Member
 United States
96 Posts |
Here's a photo of the coin in question, on the obverse there are a couple of dings at 5 and 6 o'clock and a couple small nicks at 10 and 12 o'clock, it also appears a little out of round between 1 and 3 o'clock. On the reverse the ding is at 9 o'clock. I also just realized it has a scratch below the tail feathers. It's probably considered damaged but, can it be repaired professionally? If so, is it cost prohibitive? What would the approximate grade be, if left alone?   Edited by raybutler
04/05/2013 11:12 am
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
18706 Posts |
I would grade this coin VF35 details. it appears there is a flattened rim between 2 and 3 o'clock as well as the obv and rev rim dings and the scratch on the rev. If I was going to buy (i wouldn't), I would price it at no more than 25% of retail. A clean VF35 would go for about $150.
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
That's about right then, at 25% of $150 that would be 37.50 and he wants $35.
So that's about the market value of this coin, but.... I think I'll keep looking.
Thanks.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
Quote:
That's about right then, at 25% of $150 that would be 37.50 and he wants $35.
So that's about the market value of this coin, but.... I think I'll keep looking.
Thanks. I would too. That's more than just 3rd side. The damage is into the obverse/reverse and almost looks like the coin was mounted. $35 is fair enough for someone who wants it in an album that covers much of the rims. You can find a nice f12 for that money with some searching. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2335 Posts |
Depends on what you want it for. It's pretty hard to find a good deal on a Barber half with that much detail. It would probably look pretty good in a 7070 until you found an upgrade. I know I'd rather go that route than a G-4 example.
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
I see your point, especially if it's in a album. I started out with a 1908-S G-4 in my collection and always hated it, sold it on the bay for $15 and would definitely rather have this one for only $20 more.
I'm just hoping to find something with no damage... although I could probably always get my money back out of it. I may go ahead and get it as a space filler in the meantime as I do like the detail.
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Valued Member
United States
77 Posts |
IMHO - I would consider this rim damage very significant. The scratches on the reverse are significant also. You might want to check it's weight also, just to be sure. As for the other questions, Repairing, No. Grade, None. Depending on TPG, of course. I'm with PCGS on the idea of not grading Bodybag coins. In my mind, the grade is a very specific thing that doesn't actually allow for things like scratches and/or rim damage. As for the scratches at the base of the reverse, even if the only damage on the coin were the scratches that are beneath the wing, it fails standard grading. Edited by linxlvr
04/06/2013 10:31 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1339 Posts |
This is a classic example of edge damage that would for sure get the coin a DETAILS grade and affect the value raw....IMHO
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:Depending on TPG, of course. I'm with PCGS on the idea of not grading Bodybag coins. They all grade details coins now, they dont give a specific grade but for example would say like "rim damage - vf details" |
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Valued Member
United States
77 Posts |
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They all grade details coins now, they dont give a specific grade but for example would say like "rim damage - vf details" Thanks Baseball, I was unaware that PCGS had "augmented" their PCGS Genuine slab. I'm not usually in the market for those pieces, so I hadn't even noticed. |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Im not sure when they did it but I think once NGC started doing it they followed suit so they didnt lose all of the market to them. I do think theres some value to knowing the approximate grade assuming the detail wasnt retooled into it, I'm not a fan of the questionable color designation though especially on old coins. A coins 100+ years old and you have no evidence it was cleaned or altered but dont like the color so you devalue it by giving it that, that just doesn't sit right we me.
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Valued Member
United States
77 Posts |
I know I have seen coins where even after looking at a "tooled" or "rim damage" slab it was very hard to find it. In these types of cases certainly the coin should be valued in some relation to it's grade. I just don't like the slippery slope effect, where they might grade a coin xf details that has been cleaned, tooled, had graffiti, and AT toned to hide the history, and compare that to an xf details that has had one minor thing happen, such as a very old cleaning.
In the example coin of this thread, I don't know how I would grade it. But first, I would check it was genuine I guess. But with the bumps and hits and scratches...
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
I agree I do wish they would somehow separate the minor issues from the major ones. Theres some you see where if the coin was raw youd probably never think about it or care that much but seeing it on the label brings it front and center to your attention where others its just blatantly obvious either way.
With the exception of uncirculated older coins I personally think theyve all been cleaned at some point and you just cant tell. Maybe not for coins from like the 40s or 50s but anything before 1900 I have a hard time believing it never went through anything that would be considered cleaning.
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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,474 |
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Posted 04/05/2013 02:58 am
