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8 Reales - Mexico 1765

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First Page  Showing last 15 replies.
Author Previous TopicReplies: 20 / Views: 5,388Next Topic Page 2 of 2
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/09/2014  05:41 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
Howest, thanks a lot for your reply :)

Your opinion is based on 1) yesterday pictures or 2) the microscope images uploaded right now? (I don't know if they were ready to see them by now).

For example, please look at the field between the 7 and 6 on "1765": is this not a very common mark on foundation works?

All the best,
Edited by Lohengrin
02/09/2014 05:43 am
Valued Member
Canada
470 Posts
 Posted 02/09/2014  06:03 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 1188howest to your friends list

Quote:
I would say 99% authentic



1% shenanigans.It's not an over-date or mint-state coin so depending on what you paid for it...
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/09/2014  06:17 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
Thanks Howest, I didn't buy it yet.
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/10/2014  12:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
...And no need to say that other experts on pillar dollars, are also very welcome to give their opinion about this beautiful coin ;) Thanks a lot!
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/11/2014  10:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
Can everybody see correctly the pictures taken from the microscope? Thank you.
Pillar of the Community
France
1591 Posts
 Posted 02/11/2014  10:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MathieuMa to your friends list
Swamperbob, are you around ? :)
Pillar of the Community
United States
992 Posts
 Posted 02/11/2014  11:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paxbrit to your friends list
I can see them fine, nice to have photos of such magnification and quality.

The experts will tell you, but that coin looks real to me, but I have no expertise in such things.
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/12/2014  07:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
Mathieu, I guess Swamperbob is an authority in this field. I hope he can help us and you too ;)
Paxbrit, thanks a lot for your remark!
Edited by Lohengrin
02/12/2014 07:54 am
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 02/12/2014  4:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
Lohengrin Welcome.

As Mathieu knows the best way to get my comment is to write to me and link the site. I am quite busy with my ebay work and my book projects.

I think that a risk assessment is always a good approach with coins that are fairly common. I also use the "aggregate of clues" method in making evaluations of authenticity.

The Pillar Dollar is quite rare as a Class 1 Contemporary Counterfeit and most of the early exemplars are cast as opposed to die strikes. So off hand I will rule out a Class 1 counterfeit. Too bad they are worth more than genuine coins of this grade and date.

So the alternative reduce quickly to Numismatic forgery and genuine. Your pictures help a lot in this regard. You did tend to focus a lot on post strike damage (dents and dings in the coin.) These recessed (incuse) features are far less telling than the raised metal bits that are not part of the basic design.

What I see are normal tiny lumps and bumps that are normal for Pillar and very early Portrait 8Rs. They would be warning signs later in the portrait era at Mexico City.

In all likelihood there is little chance that this coin is a counterfeit. I see nothing wrong.
Pillar of the Community
France
1591 Posts
 Posted 02/12/2014  6:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MathieuMa to your friends list
Thanks for coming Swamperbob :)
I first had doubt because of the strange patina, then thought OK with the details and the rim, and then got doubts with the close-ups - particularly the Carolus O which was not looking well defined and had some extra metal.
But as I told you in my message ... I've not seen enough of those zoomed like that to figure out what's normal, for which date.
Thanks again for checking it out :)
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/13/2014  08:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
Mr. Swamperbob,

Thank you very much for your wise comments and for your valuable time. It is a pleasure to meet you in this forum and I hope this coin can also help in your projects.

This 8R piece was found in a market for collectors in China. If it is a genuine one, then we are facing a pleasant and unexpected event ;) If not, this is a really good forgery. On the other side, I still have some questions:

1)If this 8R circulated more than 200 years ago in China, shouldn't have chop marks on it?.
2)Why can we see the raised metal bits in these coins? As I understood, their presence is due to casting (counterfeit).

Mathieu, thank you again for your insights. As you say, it would be useful to compare other pictures of same kind of coin under the microscope.
Edited by Lohengrin
02/13/2014 09:04 am
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 02/14/2014  11:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
I was told that the rim is not from the Mexico mint.
But I have seen before other Mexican 8R from 1765 with the same one and they come from well-known auction companies. What do you think?
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 05/18/2014  6:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
Lohengrin You say:


Quote:
I was told that the rim is not from the Mexico mint.


I believe the edge looks very much like a Mexico City edge design. This comment is particularly true given the post strike damage (about average) for a well circulated but untested coin. I would ask the question of who ever said it did not look like Mexico City - exactly what was meant by that comment. It is too vague to be sure of what was meant.

At this point you should look for traces of edge milling as a step that was performed BEFORE the face images were struck into the planchet on an open collar manual screw press. The application priority, location of possible overlaps and a comparison of individual elements (lotus blooms) should be made. There are numerous threads on edge designs and how to tell if they are correct or not.

Next you ask:


Quote:
If this 8R circulated more than 200 years ago in China, shouldn't have chop marks on it?.


Actually the answer is likely NO. Silver coins once they got to China faced two primary fates. Most were melted into saycee ingots and went into storage OR they were hoarded as is. The Pillar coins were introduced into China before chops became routine for authentication. If you refer to the Bordeaux article (1915 Spink) about the forgery taking place in England at the start of the War between England and the alliance of France and Spain in 1796, you will see that Bordeaux attributes the development of chops to that specific time frame in large measure to combat the new plate technologies like Sheffield that threatened the Spanish monetary dominance in China.

Before about 1770 a counterfeiter did not have the option of making a coin with Sheffield silver plate. The technique really was not perfected as used in forgery until the late 1780s or early 1790s. So at the time this coin was supposedly made and placed in circulation (1765), there actually was no need to chop most coins.

Prior to Sheffield plate the most common method of silver coating a base metal coin was a mercury amalgam paste method or a simple wash like a paint. Those coated coins did not wear well and could be exposed (as pointed out in several sources including Riddell - 1845) by rubbing the coin on white paper. The Chinese Schroffs also used smell, taste and feel as part of their detection routine in the time before Sheffield plate. Beyond being a bit dangerous in the case of forgeries containing mercury - the method really was effective. High grade alloys near sterling (925 fine) do have a distinctive taste not matched by most fakes. Do not try this take my word for it. The method was dropped as a recommended test in the 1960s due to health concerns.

Struck counterfeits of very late date Pillars (mostly last half of the 1760s) are known to exist. I own a few which I believe are actual Class 1 circulating counterfeits but they are exceptionally rare and usually crude. Faithfulness to the design of an actual coin is very important for counterfeit dating if you are aware of the historic time line for transfer methodologies.

Before about 1830 there was no accurate method of transferring the image of a coin to a steel die. Forgers could make molds and cast their copies but this coin does NOT look like a cast made at any time before 1830. Those early casts are very grainy and do not resemble later casts. Many counterfeit collectors avoid all casts because they mistakenly believe they are boring copies. However early molds were at times hand cut or were extensively recut because the images they produced were so bad. The premise of my theory is that the quality of the image transferred to any cast is the best way to approximate a date. Not too many Numismatic Counterfeits were made until far better casting methods were available. Remember a pillar dollar has a very small premium as a collector coin before the last half of the 19th century and at that time a coin in this state would have been worth $1.00.

So for a 1765 Pillar to be a period cast counterfeit it should NOT have such a clear image at all.

The only possibilities that remain are Modern Numismatic Forgery made with post 1830 or later techniques of die/mold replication or alternatively the coin is real.

The Pillar dollars NEVER carried a premium over silver in China as a form of commodity money either, so it would NOT be a monetary silver counterfeit from the second half of the 19th century either.

As you see, the dating process while still theoretical is based on logical straight forward theories.

Finally you ask:

Quote:

Why can we see the raised metal bits in these coins? As I understood, their presence is due to casting (counterfeit).


Logical question but to understand what the raised lumps look like on a casting, you need experience with looking at a casting in the same way you are looking at your coin. Hopefully that is with a binocular microscope. Casts vary wildly by date and the type of material used for the mold. In the last 20 years high strength plastics on the order of 20k psi or higher can be used to create long lasting injection molds or can actually be used to make strike forgeries.

What you need to become familiar with is how molds deteriorate versus how a steel die face erodes. Steel and most mold materials crack and chip far differently. Steel being much harder (over 36k psi) breaks sharply along lines of concentrated stress. It rarely cracks in a sharp curve or crosses over itself without the die face displacing. A sand cast (besides being very poor at fine details) lasts one pour. Plaster of Paris can last longer but the surfaces break up readily. This need to understand the appearance of what casts look like is interesting but complex.

I would say that the coin in question is clearly NOT a casting made prior to 1950 or so. It does not look right. But in my opinion it really does not look very cast at all. That does NOT rule out a modern numismatic forgery but makes it less likely.

The only test that can uncover modern cast copies is XRF or SEM which can detect trace elements that are either missing (gold) or heavy metal superconductors and 20th century additives like Cadmium.

I hope the foregoing is clearer than mud.
Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 05/22/2014  6:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list
Mathieu - I noticed the areas of concern you have - but most of the material can be accounted for by post strike surface damage that has "worn in" a bit after it occurred.

Without belaboring that point - all coins of 90% silver tend to wear similarly. Silver being a relatively soft material wears quickly. So whether you look at a Pillar dollar a US Bust half or a Ben Franklin half - the way WEAR happens in circulation should appear identical.

Wear that is genuine has an appearance that is tough to duplicate. It is my theory that the microscopic scratches tone with time and that on real wear there is a time differential in when each mini-scratch appeared. This spread out nature of actual wear compared with a uniform fresh appearance or uniformity of tone appearance can be a clue to an artificial surface.

This differential is relatively easy to spot after practice. It is kind of a gut impression you get, but which traces to the physical factors I explained.

So - to my eye - I see the coin as appropriate at this point. I would of course study it closer if I owned it, but my overall impression even of the enlargements is predominantly natural.

Hope that helps.
New Member
Spain
11 Posts
 Posted 05/23/2014  01:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lohengrin to your friends list
Dear Swamperbob,

Thanks a lot for your remarks and for sharing your vast knowledge about this topic.

Although I (still) did not purchase this pillar dollar from 1765, probably you can imagine how much I enjoyed with the research about its authenticity. In the meantime, I got some other pillar dollar from specialized auction companies. I hope very soon I can share some pictures of them with you.

Talk to you soon!
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