1951-D LWC DDO - I Hope I Finally Got One

So disappointed I thought for sure that I had it recognized this time. I see exactly what you are talking about coop - I need to make sure I use those lines that you do.

It is different from my others, but just because of circulation then. But, even with my scope I can see the notching on the hook of the G and the bottom left of the D and E.

Such a bummer, Thanks for your help Doug with trying to attribute this for me.

Can't believe I search for an hour or more in Photoshop Elements 9, tool bars and then help section looking for a pen tool option to draw vector lines. Found out it's not an option in PSE 9 and 10 via Adobe tech support section.

My secondary option is the selection tool. Not going for a full overlay, but rather selecting a slice which includes the mint mark and up the way I see it.

Before that I'll add the notching that intrigues me to keep digging or is CoinCents original images seem to be showing the following.

a. In "GOD" the G shows spread and notch. The O and D show spread.

b."WE" shows spread notches on two legs of the E, top leg to beat up.

c. "TRUST" here the spread differs. "U" in TRUST is notched, but I see the comparison pic is a good bit smaller than coppercoins example.

d. Weigh in the circulation factor and the unknown die state of CoinCents example, I wouldn't expect them to look exactly the same.

e. The MM placement. I'll try to add visual aid rather than words, but will say they seem to lay right over one another See below.

The following images are a progression overlay at 25%, 50% and 75% opacity using CoinCents example of MM area and up on top of Coop's example from Coppercoins. Hope it shows why I'm not ready to write it off yet. Note: I did not start at 0% and end at 100% because that's like showing the original pic again. Thanks, Doug.







PS: Coop I did take my overlay section straight from the original pic for CoinCents coin. Thought your example cut a bit off more so on the right. Please don't beat me up to bad. Just think I see something worth mentioning. Thanks, Doug.

Doug - coop thank you both for all the hard work you are putting into this. Your skills are beyond mine for using these photo programs - I am not sure how I can contribute here. I tried to get some better images this morning, but they are not any better than what is already here.

I remember that owl....

But on doubled dies, even the slightest differences disqualify a certain die number.

These are examples from two different dies. To the eyes they may be hard to discern, but after studying them for a time, then you start to see the differences.

You have to see even the slightest differences to spot it. (my cheat sheet on the side helps though)

The die 002 is stronger than the 007. This shows on these devices on LIBERTY.

See the differences here? I always look at the tail of the 'S' on TRUST for ID on these two dies. There is a nice hook upwards that catches my eye. Making these helped me to realized the biggest differences in these dies. The date:
]img]https://www.coincommunity.com/forum...DATE_001.jpg
Only making these side by sides I noticed the differences on the tail of the 2. So the 008 has a stronger spread than 003. So training the eyes you will soon pick out the differences/things that area alike on doubled dies. (same on RPMs as well) The 008 with the different tail on the 2 is clue that they are different. But looking at other parts of the coins design, will also show differences.

Thus because one area looks like a certain die and the parts don't, doesn't make that die. It disqualifies it from being that die number.

Doug, I absolutely agree with what you said, I just don't have the knowledge to back it up. I appreciate all your time and hard work as well.

You all are so great - Thanks :)

I for one am extremely grateful that you guys take extra time to help us.