How Can I Test To See If I Have A 1946 Transitional Nickel?

Weight won't tell you anything by itself, but it is the first step in determining the Specific gravity which WILL give you a clue. SG of a coppernickel five cent is 8.92, SG of a War Nickel is 9.25 to 9.32. The only definitive way to tell would be to shoot it with an XRF gun.

@coop - so weight is indeterminate wrt "normal" nickels vs wartime nickels. All are 5G. <sigh>

@conder101 - SG can be determined using the traditional water displacement vs mass, so the expense of hundreds to thousands of dollars on an XRF gun should not be required - all I need is an accurate scale and volume measurements. I don't need an accurate analysis of how much of what metal is in the alloy - I just need to know if its sg matches that of a wartime nickel vs a standard nickel... or am I wrong?

@merclover - 99% isopropyl and acetone do not affect most metals, especially those used in coins - unless for some odd reason reactive metals like magnesium and potassium are part of the alloy, which I have never heard of. What these solvents do do is to allow greasy residue to dissolve. I would never subject coins to acidic or alkalinic or abrasive cleaners or metal polishes that would remove any metal from the surface at all, and would not use any other cleaning materials that would abrade the surface.

An isopropyl or acetone bath is safer and less damaging of any coin surface than is soap and water
(soap is an alkalinic oxidizing agent and H2O is acidic by nature.) These solvents can remove oils and greasy residue that obscure the true surface texture and toning of a coin - or any metal for that matter.

It is non-corrosive and non-abrasive. Why rail against 99% isopropyl? The only thing 99% isopropyl could remotely do to a coin is to attract H2O to microscopic interstices that might (if an H2O reactive metal is present) cause oxidation. The chemical compound of H2O itself will not cause oxidation or corrosion or anything else that would affect the surface of any non-reactive metal, either. In other words, a water rinse has as much adverse effect as would a brief isopropyl or acetone bath.

I mention both isopropyl and acetone because they are closely related. Isopropyl can be oxidized to acetone. Both are excellent oil solvents that evaporate quickly.

I would never subject a proof or uncirculated coin to even isopropyl or acetone rinse. However, to determine hidden details of well-circulated, business-strike issues that have normal circulation-related oily/greasy residue obscuring the surface, using a non-reactive, non-abrasive solvent does not affect the metal, and is not "cleaning". It is removal of debris.

I know there are purists that don't even think non-abrasive, non-reactive solvent baths should ever be done, but there is no chemical or metallurgical reason behind that determination.

We aren't even remotely talking about removing patina - which I would not do, and which is not in the same category as oily or greasy circulation-related residue, by any stretch of the imagination. It also will remove or reduce non-greasy goo which does nothing other that obscure a coin's surface.

If you think an isopropyl or acetone bath will react with any non-reactive base metals like zinc, copper, nickel or silver, or will result in ablating any metal from the surface at all, especially mint "sheen", you need to go back to Chemistry 101. And nobody would ever be able to grade or sell any dirty well-circulated coin because they would all be so ugly nobody would want them, even for "placeholders."

You are correct. All you really need is a pocket scale that reads grams to two decimal places, a coat hanger, large paper clip and a glass of water. Piece of fishing line and needle nose pliers could be handy.

Shinny: You shouldn't clean your coins with ANYTHING, period. Not even 99% isopropyl alcohol, which has a problem: Isopropyl alcohol is full of minerals and other impurities. Want proof? Wipe some on a mirror and let it evaporate. What you are left with is a white powdery residue, a white-ish haze that will remain on the surface of the glass. The 1% can contain any number of minerals and/or impurities. Maybe that is ok with some, but for my coins, I say, "No thanks".

If I am attacked for being "a purist" then sobeit. If you MUST use something, use acetone (less residue issues).

I have been attempting to refine my SG measurements (wt in air, wt in water) and the results are all over the place. It seems more often than not the War Nickels are under 9, often under the 8.92 of cu/ni nickels.

I changed my rig to use a bent paper clip to rest the coin on to get its wt in water, first zeroing the scale with the empty paper clip thang, then lowering the coin on the paper clip into the water at the same depth as the paper clip was when zeroed. I felt the dental floss net thing was drawing water up into itself (capillary action) skewing the results.

The closest I have gotten using the revised method is with a 1985D nickel. Using the redesigned rig I get a SG of 8.950089, a tad high.

All the wartime nickels I have tested so far have been low. The closest to 9.25 SG is a 1945 D warnick at 9.01989...

I know this may not be accurate, how about a drop test? A few inches above on a hard surface. It should have the same tone as the regular silver War Nickel, if it is the same metal alloy.

I did try it on the coins pictured, its not like a mint state coin that I would be worry about effecting the grade and value.