PCGS Grading Results

Use the free image optimizer to get the photos to portable size..or share the PCGS numbers

Well heck, since that worked.
45 Standing Liberty

The 1945 50 cent I see the large scratch, so that one would details.

The 1922 Peace is a common date, common coin, unless it was spectacular I wouldn't have slabbed that one. The cleaning isn't bad, but I would agree with the grade.

The 1858 you can CLEARLY see the damage, grade is accurate.

And the 1857 has both scratches and 5 small gouges. Why would you get that graded?

There wasn't one coin that was worth grading, everyone was clearly details.

I think the grades are accurate, although it's hard to detect the cleaning on the Peace dollar with the photos. That explains why they didn't get numerical grades. The only thing they got wrong is the WLH is a half dollar, not a quarter.

When submitting coins for grading you have to have either a coin that is worth it (like high value or high grade) or because of authencity. Unless the coin is valuable or the details grade questionable with a potential upside ($$$$), it rarely makes it worth it grade it yourself. It's actually much cheaper to buy coins already graded. Sadly these coins didn't merit grading.

Look I graded stuff that I was like why did I do that? So it's a lesson learned, but seriously try to grade stuff that meets either of these 3 conditions: value, condition or authentic

Agree with TY above and sometimes we also get it wrong. I submitted 12 coins a few months ago for grading 3 came back higher, 2 were right on the dot, 3 were slightly lower and 4 were details. Even though I knew they were details I submitted them hoping for a different outcome. It didn't happen. I still made out as the total value exceeded my purchase price as the coins were under graded when I purchased them. But please ask, we like giving advice (although it could all over the place depending on who grades the coin)

There are quite a few "rules of thumb" that people use about third-party grading. None of these are hard-and-fast rules. They are just ideas that people have come to accept as a type of collective wisdom. They can be helpful, though.

Value. Many people set an arbitrary coin value where grading may make financial sense. A lot of people draw the line around $150-$200 minimum value. Others of us set the limit higher. (I draw the line around $1500, except for heavily counterfeited dates.)

Authenticity. Many people have coins graded where authenticity either is doubtful or where having the TPG guarantee could matter. An example would be a G/VG 1909-S VDB cent. Another example is gold coins that trade largely at bullion value, such as US modern commemorative half eagles. If bulk submissions can be done, having the slab greatly helps sales.

Collectible varieties. Sometimes having a particular variety recognized makes a coin more valuable or increases the ability to sell a coin. An example might be a 1917 double die cent.

Bulk submissions, where the per-coin price is low. An example might be purchasing a couple BU rolls of a pre-war Lincoln Cent. Take 1937-D as an example. It is common in mid-UNC grades. but the bump to MS-67 RD is over $100 per coin, and a bump to MS-68 RD is around $6,000+. It only takes a couple MS-67 RD coins to make the bulk grading worthwhile, and one MS-68 RD is a walkoff grand slam home run.

Gambling on a higher grade. For many coins, just a one-point bump in grade can be worth hundreds of dollars. That's also true for improving a designation, such as RB to RD for a cent or getting a PL or DMPL designation for a Morgan dollar.

It costs nothing to post coins on here and see what others think of the grade. Doing that first can help inform the decision whether to send the coin to a TPG, or in some cases which TPG might be better for a given coin.

Just some random thoughts.