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Replies: 17 / Views: 7,631 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5675 Posts |
PVC residue can be invisible at first, so the easiest solution is to bathe any coins you're concerned about in pure acetone to remove any PVC. That should be safe for the coins regardless of whether they were exposed to PVC.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
878 Posts |
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Moderator
 Australia
16845 Posts |
As a couple of very general "rules of thumb": - PVC residue is green. Copper is the element usually involved in PVC reaction, and most copper corrosion byproducts are green-coloured. So if a coin is copper, bronze, brass or diluted silver, and has bits of green on it, and is less than 500 years old, then it's possible that it's PVC damage. It could of course be ordinary environmental corrosion, so see the other tests below. Metals that do not react strongly with acids (such as gold, high-purity silver and pure nickel) are less prone to being affected by PVC. - PVC residue is sticky. If the green stuff, or the coin generally, "feels sticky" and not like a normal coin from change, then PVC is a likely reason. - PVC-affected coins "smell plasticky". - If a coin has been sitting in a PVC coin album page for a long time, then a "shadow" of the coin is often visible in the album page after the coin is removed. - Finally, PVC residue washes off in acetone, or other organic solvents. If the green goo comes off in acetone, then it was PVC.
"PVC damage" is caused when acidic plasticizers in the PVC slowly leach out of the plastic, and onto the coin. The acid reacts with the surface of the coin at the point of contact with the plastic. For coins that have not had too much exposure to the PVC, the damage is minimal. But for badly affected coins, the damage is irreversible. Acetone can remove the PVC goo and prevent further damage from happening, but the damage already done cannot be undone. This might be seen as discolouration, and in the "hazing" or dulling of reflective surfaces on high-grade coins.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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New Member
 Germany
40 Posts |
  From my collection, I am most suspicious about this coin. Do you think it has PVC? I can not test if it smells or is sticky as it is a graded coin... Someone here said that PVC residue can be invisible at first... does that mean that any of my coins, also the graded ones, can be affected and there is no way to know for sure? That sounds pretty scary to me as from what I've heard, PVC can ruin a coin...
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5675 Posts |
I don't see any signs of PVC damage, just typical toning. And PVC is much less likely to affect a silver coin than a copper one. I certainly wouldn't break a graded coin out of its holder just to check.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
3652 Posts |
Quote: ...does that mean that any of my coins, also the graded ones, can be affected? I believe the short answer is yes. PCGS and NGC will not holder coins with PVC residue, but (for example), NGC has the following disclaimer in their guarantee: From the NGC Guarantee, part of Section 8a - Quote: In certain Coins, natural environmental deterioration may cause undesired features to appear, such as (but not limited to) spotting, hazing, PVC and corrosion. Therefore, this Guarantee does not apply to Coins exhibiting any of these issues.
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New Member
 Germany
40 Posts |
@Zurie: the coin has a nice toning but it also has some kind of dirt or residue around the lettering... its visible for example on WIL of Wilhelm. Could that be PVC residue or just harmless dirt?
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5675 Posts |
The area around the letters WIL on the obverse looks okay to me, but after enlarging the image, there's a slight greenish tinge over the hair and on his knees on the reverse. It looks a little suspicious, but I'm not sure. I always rinse my coins in acetone before sending them off for grading just to avoid this kind of conundrum. If it straight graded, my inclination would still be to leave it in the holder.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
878 Posts |
All green is not PVC damage. Looks like normal toning to me.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
As so many have already stated, just dip in Acetone.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote: All green is not PVC damage. True, most is probably from copper reacting to salts and skin oils
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Valued Member
United States
118 Posts |
I know this is an old thread but upon searching, it looks like the most recent one.
Is it generally a good policy to rinse all coins that come in any kind of soft flips?
How about rinsing each unslabbed coin just to be safe since you may not be able to see the residue?
How long should the coin be rinsed? Does anyone rinse multiple coins at the same time? Should I replace the acetone after each bath?
From what I've read, rinsing with distilled water afterwards is best.
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Moderator
 Australia
16845 Posts |
There are plenty of more recent threads - it's a topic that come sup quite frequently around here - but this one will do.
I generally don't rinse any coin unless it's got visible PVC goo and/or it is "sticky" to the touch. But that's just because I'm cheap and acetone isn't cheap, so I restrict its use to coins that I know will need it.
For PVC goo, acetone works fast - soaking longer than 5 minutes is redundant. If it doesn't come off in 5 minutes, it's not PVC goo.
Rinsing with distilled water is also unnecessary. If you've acetone-rinsed properly, there shouldn't be anything on the coin for distilled water to remove, and if you haven't rinsed with acetone properly, then whatever's still on the coin isn't going to come off in water. Water can also be harmful to copper coins if it's not dried off properly - and acetone is an excellent drying agent. Personally, I'd do it the other way around - give the coins a water rinse first to remove anything water-soluble, then acetone.
A distilled water rinse is essential for E-Z-est or other acidic dips, because you need to wash the acid off or it'll eat into your coin. This is not a concern with acetone as it's not acidic.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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Moderator
 United States
189219 Posts |
Quote: Rinsing with distilled water is also unnecessary. If you've acetone-rinsed properly, there shouldn't be anything on the coin for distilled water to remove, and if you haven't rinsed with acetone properly, then whatever's still on the coin isn't going to come off in water. Water can also be harmful to copper coins if it's not dried off properly - and acetone is an excellent drying agent. Personally, I'd do it the other way around - give the coins a water rinse first to remove anything water-soluble, then acetone. This is worth repeating. 
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