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 Replies: 48 / Views: 4,505 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1590 Posts |
Heck, I know this is splitting hairs but I think AU's with FSB should command a small premium. I know all that goes out the window once we lose the MS rating, but there are many AU FSB coins I would rather own than a weakly struck MS 64. Like say a 1945P.....just sayin
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
I am sure there's no population reports on what years or MM are melted, yesterday high prices would be a bargain at tomorrow price.
I am buying rolls in AU/BU as an investment, watch out for cleaned one's though!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10635 Posts |
Quote:
Regarding my point on 1916-D: This one sold for $253 on Heritage a couple days ago. Given the availability of problem-free examples of the date (admittedly low-grade), why would you pay that much for that ugly thing? Even for a low-ball set, I can't imagine paying that much. captainfwiffo, I agree with you... I can't imagine anyone paying that much for that condition, even if it is THE key coin of the series. I know I wouldn't. I am not opposed to trying to purchase a raw 1916D, but I know there are a lot of counterfeits out there. This fact nearly forces most to pay for a slabbed one, which always sell at a premium, which in turn drive up the raw ones... a vicious cycle for sure. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
I agree about 1943-D being the 1881-S of Mercury dimes. There are a TON of them out there and they're all beautifully struck. 1939-D and 1944-D also - any of those later Denver Mercs really. @Mac: I have my eye on a PCGS MS64 FB 1939-S. It's mostly white and normally I go for color, but it's a really tough one with split bands and it's a solid strike for the date... There's only one on ebay right now too (an MS66 FB). Nobody talks that one up as a strike rarity like they do with 1945. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10635 Posts |
I know I'm in the minority, but I regard the 1942/41 over date as an essential part of any "complete" Mercury dime collection. I don't have one (yet) but I always watch for them and drool at everyone I see. I day dream about "accidentally" finding one, but I know realistically that probably will never happen. I wish I had access to "junk" raw silver like some of you have. That's why I search Lincoln rolls (not for silver, ha)... because I think it's the last frontier. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
Captain,
Numismedia prices are out of line for 1939-S, I would buy at that price from MS 61-63 all I can if its available.
A bargain for MS 63FB @$54. Price guides needs to be evaluated.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
What do you think is a good price on a '39-S at MS 64 FB (PCGS)? Numismedia says $168, that seems already pretty steep!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
Price shot up when is MS 64 FB and above, I would rather go for a high end 63 FB $54 price.
These prices reflect population report based on PCGS and Numismedia data, or from what sources? I have no idea what the grey sheet prices are either.
For what is worth, if the coin have great eye appeal, then I wouldn't mind paying the full $168, but if comparing MS 63 FB and 64 FB, and I can't tell the difference, you know well which one I will go for.
Edited by macmercury
10/28/2011 09:49 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Hmm... I am working on a 34-45 "gem" set, which I was planning on mostly being MS65FB and higher, with just a few compromises (maybe only 64FB for some dates, or no FB for dates like '45)... I don't know which compromise to make for '39-S! I guess this is straying off topic... But it does relate to the topic... I'd say a major sleeper in this series is any Mercury dime with a well-struck periphery. This includes lower grades. People look for the FB designation, but even some of those have poorly struck peripheral lettering. San Francisco ones have problems here for almost every date. The "E" in "ONE" is a key spot, as well as the last digit of the date. Also the area between the lower diagonal band and the center horizontal bands. an XF or better coin might show little detail there in spite of the grade just because it's weakly struck. I'd say the only dates that are consistently well struck are 1916-P and Denver from 1937-1945. |
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Valued Member
United States
289 Posts |
Merclover, in response to what you wrote about 42/41. In what we have that was left to me (grandfather) he had around 20 rolls of mercs. Most of those were 39 to 45. 4 rolls were 42 and of course I thought MAYBE..... but alas no 42/41. I have been working on our set for years now and have everything completed except 42/41, I've heard different views on if this is a key coin for the complete set. I thought differently until recently and I think it is key now. It seems to be easier to obtain than a 1916d, or at least what I've seen available. With what was left to me and what I've bought, we're working on 3 books. One book has a spot for 42/41 the other 2 do not. The 3 books are old, part of what was left to me. So I guess I'll be trying in the future to get one of those, however nothing we have is graded. I want to start buying graded later on and to buy this coin (42/41), wouldn't it be absolutely mandatory to buy one that is graded?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I'm rather a Mercury dime nut. I have well over 3,000 of those things. 12 Whitman Classic Albums of them, all complete except #11 and #12 missing the 16D. Of course only the more recent Albums have slots for both the 42/41 and the 42D/41 and the 45 micro S. Older Albums do not have slots fo some of those. I go to from 2 to 4 coin shows a Month and based on coin shows and coin stores, it alwasy appears that the big ones are the 16D, 21, 21D and the 26S. After that, the interest just sort of wanders pending the weather I think. I've tried to acquire as many 31D's as possible since that is the 4th lowest mintage in the series and eventually that should be finally realized. The prices on the 31D are very unusually low. Watch for the 19D in high grades too. More and more small and large Mint Marks are being discovered in this series and I think soon some of those will also be in the high valued area. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Carl is a greedy greedy person  , but he's right about th MM varieties! Only the micro S gets any love. 1928 large S and the two types of 1917 (all three mints) should get more attention. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
I love collecting Mercury errors and MM varieties. The reward is great finding one, even greater discovering one!
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I've always found it odd that so many people collect the Mercury dime and so many say how much they like that design, yet so little is printed about that coin. There is that one book by a David Lang for $42.95 on Mercury dimes but not much else. Even Whitman with all the books they publish don't have one on Mercury dimes. They even have a book on the Red Book, yet nothing for the Mercury dime. So little info is available about Mint Errors, differences in Mint Marks, rotated reverses, possible Double Dies, etc. Sure wonder why. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5832 Posts |
I like to see a gallery book on all the dates in different MM, varieties and errors. I will volunteer to put the book into PDF so no cost involved, I just need good high resolution images.
Easy said then doing it, need all the available source as mention above.
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Replies: 48 / Views: 4,505 |
First Page
Posted 10/27/2011 5:33 pm
