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Replies: 11 / Views: 3,467 |
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1745 Posts |
Ok, not the best buffalo guy, so I need the practce.
15-S VG8 24-S G6 26-S VG10 31-S F15 31-S VF20
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Valued Member
United States
149 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2604 Posts |
15-S G 24-S G 26-S VG10 31-S F15 31-S VF20
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Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
15-S G-6 weak liberty was struck that way on 1915, reverse motto good, tiny bit of horn so G-6 24-S G-4 26-S VG-8 31-S VF-20 31-S VF-20 There's always much disagreement in the F-12 -> VF-30 range for buffalos because some grade the piece as a whole versus picking apart the details and some try to do both. I could see either of those pieces going as low as F-15 or as high as VF-30. I'm in the middle on each. The second one has a bit more detail on the horn and head versus the first, but I like the rest of the coin less. btw, Johnny, I could really use your opinion (or anyone's) on my thread debating whether or not my 21-S has a defective die or PMD. http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/...LY_ID=864075
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
My guesses would be 15-S VG-8 24-S VG-10 26-S F-15 31-S VF-20 31-S VF-25
Edited by D0ubl3Eagle 11/16/2011 5:46 pm
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Valued Member
United States
213 Posts |
Grading coins is a subjective art... that's why it's 2 out of 3 at PCGS. I grade Buffalo nickels almost every day and grade them as follows. 1915-S G-6 1924-S VG-8 1926-S F-12 31-S VF-20 31-S VF-20
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
hmmm, I could buy the 26-S being in the Fine range, compared to my VG-8 estimate. I am somewhat stuck on the 24-S though. Danester and Doubleeagle why do you see VG-8 and VG-10 there. I love debating buffalo grades. I think it's one of the most intriguing series to grade out there. On the 24-S, the buffalo's entire head has been completely obliterated and much of the reverse motto is moving into the rim....both would seam to be requirements to get to VG. The obverse alone could be VG territory and maybe bring it up to G-6, but VG? I don't know, I grade buffalos almost every day too and I've never called a coin a VG where the buffalo head looked like a burnt pancake. There is zero horn. Then again some graders of buffalos are shying away from individual aspects more and more and looking at the coin as a whole so who knows.
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Valued Member
United States
213 Posts |
hesgut, yes the 1924-S and 1926-S are the most difficult of the bunch here to grade, and neither is choice for the their grades that I tagged - VG-8 and F-12. The 1924-S was poorly struck from the get-go (especially the reverse), and accounts for the weak features on the Bison's head an overall reverse. In 1920s the San Francisco Mint seemed to have issues with the Hardness of their plantchets (too hard) that also contributed to poor strikes. The bottom line is this 1924-S has a decent date and enough horn (even though mushie) to just make VG-8. For the 1926-S, again just barely Fine-12. LIBERTY on the obverse is just barely separated from the rim, and there is just enough horn showing on a notoriously weakly struck reverse - the 1926-S. If I was buying, I'd be pushing your line of thought because these two are borderline. But as a grader I'm sticking with my grades to make the best call on these. Yes, many dealers don't know how to properly grade Buffalo nickels, and there are many who under grade. It's a form of cherrypicking on those under graders. In the Buffalo Series I've also cherrypicked a 3-Legged 1937-D, and a 1918/7-D . I'm still looking of the hat-trick - a 1916/1916 DDO.
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Pillar of the Community
1028 Posts |
Thank you for the response Danester.
We were in exact agreement on 3 of the 5.
On the 26-S, I called it VG-8, but I could see F-12. Actually I like F-12 more so than VG-10. I don't usually use the so-called choice grades as "in between." I feel like I am in the minority in that train of thought. To most people a VG-10 is basically their version of a VG/F, I see it more as a coin that didn't meet the requirement of fine, yet did for VG, and I see something there that I like....such as better strike, maybe one particular detail that's especially nice, etc. The thinking often produces the same grade, but it's a different way of looking at it.
Regarding the 24-S, we'll have to agree to disagree. I completely understand and agree with what you've said regarding the initial strike quality of that coin. We're not grading mid range MS though. That 24-S looks like it actually had a better than average strike and still was worn down to a horrendous buffalo. We have to grade wear and details and I see a reverse that borders on AG with a VG-8, heck maybe a VG-10 obverse. I also do not see what I'd call a horn....maybe if I did, I might call this coin a VG-8.
I've been known to be a tougher than average grader across most series on these boards and on items I sell. My estimates are usually in line with PCGS grades, however, unless they give a market grade on a rarer coin, which I find to be higher than my estimates.
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Rest in Peace
 United States
4849 Posts |
Thank you all for your comments, and thanks for the thorough analysis hesgut. I'm not very good at grading these, so your input is much appreciated. It looks like quite a few of them are very debatable. This is a set that I inherited. :-)
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Replies: 11 / Views: 3,467 |
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