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 Replies: 41 / Views: 5,612 |
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Moderator
  United States
23522 Posts |
Kind of figured you'd have hacked into it at first chance, Bryan.  I don't really see you needing to upgrade. All you'll gain from a T2i is 300 more vertical pixels and 10 more fps of 1080 video - your camera will already do 1080/20 and 720/30. In my mind, not worth throwing money into. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
that was my thought when I actually got the T1i but at that time there was about a $200.00 difference between the two (since I needed at least one lens with the package because I didn't have any at all). Now it looks like there is very little difference in the price between the two and I understand why everyone is picking the T2i over the T1i for the 20-30 bucks difference
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
SuperDave...OK, another comparison to do between Canon and Nikon. I'll try a silver coin and see if I can replicate this phenomenon. I'm of course also shooting with the 75ARD1...Ray
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
For my part, I'm going to see if I can come up with a BU Red Lincoln to benchmark against your '57's - I don't currently have one in the collection.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I'm still getting used to the settings and workflow with the T2i. I'm not very happy with the Canon RAW processing software that came with the camera. It is very non-intuitive, doesn't seem to save files properly, etc, etc. Anyway, here's a VERY lustrous and white Mercury dime overall shot (downsized 4x), detail shot (100%), and the same 100% shot with the saturation cranked WAY up to show the noise level. ISO was 400 for this shot. This doesn't look that bad to me, but maybe I am just used to it? Next is the same shot with Nikon...Ray    |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I've gotta say it is much, much easier getting the coin colors right with this T2i. The colors are much more natural and don't need fiddling with. And now every shot I look at from the Nikon is green tinted compared with the Canon. The one thing the Nikon does that beats the Canon is in maintaining dynamic range. The Canon seems much more prone to being blown-out. but the flip side of this is the Nikon suppresses luster in coin shots. The Canon gives a more vibrant representation of luster. I just need to be more careful not to over-expose the Canon as it seems to want to do.
Now, as far as noise goes, aren't they about the same?
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
Now, as far as noise goes, aren't they about the same? Yes, but in your words you had to alter the saturation to see it at all. From my rig, it's automatic. Now, I have to ask - EXIF data for your images lists an aperture (f/1.4) and a focal length (50mm). Is that data being placed there by your PP software? With the 75ARD, I see f0 and no focal length in EXIF. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I'm using an "AF confirm" type of T-mount to EOS adapter that is "chipped" so it looks like a 50mm f1.4 lens to the camera. This allows me to use Aperture Priority mode and not have to mess around with shutter speed.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
Hi Ray, I'm not sure how your Canon T2i works, but I don't use any "chipped" type connection to my Canon 50D body, and the aperture priority mode still sets the exposure correctly as I adjust the manual aperture on my bellows/enlarger lens attachment. I don't think having the chipped version hurts anything, but at least for the 50D it isn't necessary. I don't have my T2i body in hand yet, so I'm not sure how it functions.
Maybe this is a difference between the Canon and Nikons also? Just wondering.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Interesting - I'll have to try and see. Exposure is the parameter I usually manipulate when dialing in a coin, though, and I don't see myself going to Aperture Priority anytime soon.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
For clarification, I shoot with my 50D set to Aperture Priority. This allows the sensor to still detect the correct time for the exposure (at least it does on the 50D). When I manually adjust the aperture on one of my enlarging lenses my live view screen updates automatically the exposure value as well. For further adjustment, when I half depress the shutter button or my remote cord release it still allows me to adjust the exposure via the on-screen EV scale. In my case, I have it set to 1/3 EV increments, so I can easily do a -1/3EV or -2/3EV shot. Based on some of the reading for the T2i, the dynamic range can be improved for important shots by doing a -1EV and then bumping the EV in post. Read the "Highlight Tone Priority" section of this review: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/can...d/page16.aspEdited by brg5658
02/20/2012 12:26 pm
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
additional highlight dynamic range comes at the expense of slightly greater shadow noise. Yeah, I need more of that. I infer that this feature affects RAW files as well; I'll give it a shot. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
I'm just curious, but why are you guys shooting at anything but ISO 100 in a studio setting? Chroma noise is basically non existent at ISO 100 in all shots I have seen.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
I generally shoot at ISO 100 on the Nikon in order to maximize exposure time to minimize camera vibration effects. I started that way with the Canon but did some experiments at higher ISO to see if the faster shutter speed would improve or degrade the sharpness. I saw no difference, but I forgot to put it back to ISO100 after that experiment. Even at ISO400 vs 100 I did not see much in the way of chroma noise on the dime image.
SuperDave, are you using the Jansjo's bare, without diffusion? That will increase noise due to local contrast increase.
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Replies: 41 / Views: 5,612 |
First Page
Posted 02/19/2012 5:45 pm
