Hello New Member Here Question About American Silver Eagles

Thanks for all the comments.

I guess for me I'm thinking this as something I can build up and pass onto my kids one day and they can sell it. Seems you will get the most $ for graded ones. That was my thinking on going after graded ASE or if I buy from mint send them into pcgs.

If you buy raw - just check it for any obnoxious proof rot (haze), awful toning, etc - if it has none of that - then it would likely grade a 69. If you look at it for a while under a loupe and you don't see a single flaw in the surface or the rim - including a tiny spot that didn't get cameo etc, then it's probably a 70.

I sent some into NGC to have graded, one batch 80% came back 70 the other batch 60% came back 70. But as far as the marketplace goes, you can sometimes pick up a ngc or pcgs 69 graded proof ASE for the same price as one in the original box

Ant,

I'm going to share some of my thoughts since they seems to be different than the responses so far. At the end of the day there is no right answer. Go with your gut.

Q: "Does it make more sense for me to purchase non graded coins and have it done myself?"
A: Probably not. If you're just trying to complete the set it doesn't make sense to pay the grading fees. The "send for grading" approach only makes sense to me if you are trying to find and flip PR70s for fun and profit.

Q: "What are good prices to pay for a set like that."
and
Q: "What do you think is a good price for the 2011-p Reverse Proof
PCGS PR70 First Strike"
A: I recommend searching completed auctions on ebay to get a feel for pricing. If you go to a coin show you can probably compare whole set prices from a couple dealers. Also, I personally don't like to pay the PR70 premium. I would prefer to have more PR69s than a single 70.

Q: "About getting graded ASE it seems that you can pay the same amount for a 69 grade and one not graded. Wouldnt you want the 69 in that case?"
A: If you assume that most of the raw proof eagles are PR69s then it just depends if you want the encasement or not. I prefer to pay a small premium for the slabs because I like the protection that they offer from the environment and physical handling. I also display my collection in albums with slab pages. If you are putting them into a tradition Dansco don't buy the slabs because it will be a pain to crack them out.

Q: "Might be a stupid question but why does a coin with spots still have the ability to get a 69 rating ?"
A: As I understand it 69s are allowed to have some spots. It is also possible for spots to appear after holdering. I'm not a big fan of spots, so I would be looking for older holders (a separate topic) so I know that the coin isn't going to spot in the holder.

Q: "Why would anyone ever open the coin after being graded"
A: As mentioned, to put it in an album. Also to submit to a different TPG service. Or to resubmit in an attempt to get a higher grade or designation.

Statement: "I guess for me I'm thinking this as something I can build up and pass onto my kids one day and they can sell it. Seems you will get the most $ for graded ones. That was my thinking on going after graded ASE or if I buy from mint send them into pcgs. "
Response: From an investment perspective I don't think it matters much for slabbed vs raw. Possible exceptions include the keys 50 years from now, which your kids can send in for grading at that time. And I would be very cautious investing in PR70s. Raw coins could also tone beautifully in the album and be worth a premium or tone ugly and be worth melt.

Other random thoughts:
- I hate collecting US Mint boxes. That's just me.
- As mentioned by others, the tactile issue is huge for me as well. I would also put one in a Cointain or similar holder to play with. Possibly even get a non-proof to hold in my hands from time to time.
- Slabbed or raw you will need to store them properly to keep them from changing on you. A lesser issue with the slabs, but still an issue. (This is also a separate topic.)

Whew!

I always check ebays past auctions for anything I'm bidding on. Great tool

Not sure about coin shops and shows. That's next thing I have to do

This would be sufficient to protect and display the coins right ?

http://blujay.com/item/24-Collector...0000-4046602

Personally, all my ASE that I have are not graded and those of mine that are extra special I put into my album. After I put them there if I find another example that of a particular year's coin that is better I just switch them out with the replaced coin going into a plastic roll holder. My proof and uncirculated mint coins are placed somewhere else. Mint packaging, while it does take extra space is not bothersome to me.

Graded coins do have their place, but I feel that for the most part grading an ASE will not return the grading cost unless the coin grades high. If you want a graded set, then purchase a coin that already graded. Personally I would not purchase a coin that I can pick up at melt unless it is a "key" date or is a double die variety.

If you choose wisely, you can pick up an impressive set very reasonablly. Especially if you are not in a hurry to assemble the set. This is what I consider is key, take your time and pick the right coin for you and your collection.

, totally.

Here is how I see slabbing, based on my experience in the collectible firearms world ( when I say experience, I have bought and sold millions of dollars worth of collectible firearms). Slabbing a coin serves essentially two basic functions, to protect a coin or to say that at one place and time this coins was in "such and such" condition and this holder is supposed to keep it that way.

Based on these two standards, people buy or pay to have slabbed coins if.....
1) they like the idea their coin is protected in the best way possible (some people just like the security)
2) they want a coin of a particular grade to fill a hole in a collection
3) they hope to profit from a coin they bought raw receiving a high grade.

The first two are totally subjective and are at the whim of the individual, there is no right or wrong to it. It is #3 where many people have the wrong perspective. IF you are doing slabbing for profit.....only...and I mean ONLY have a coin slabbed if you feel it WILL grade in the top 1% of coins available already to the collector market. Even if you THINK it might not make the top 1%.... the collectors you will be selling to won't think it is in the top 1% either. Where real profit is made is in that top 1% of any collectible item, everything else is just speculation and usually dissapointment. Here is the real kicker though. In many types of coins (modern proofs are a great example) way more than 1% of the available population will grade at 70. This to me is a huge warning sign that long term this coin will NOT go up in value unless the available population is very low.

In summary, for profit seeking individuals, unless your coin will litterally grade in the top 1% of a coins available in a population, keep it raw and sell it to someone else who doesn't have this same perspective! :-)