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Coins With Minor Defects

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centsdimes's Avatar
United States
134 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2012  8:55 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add centsdimes to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
When a coin has a minor defect, such as a very small amount of corrosion (copper and bronze coins), small nicks, or small scratches, a coin grading service can call the coin "ungradeable," and avoid placing a value on the coin. However, dealers and collectors want to know what a coin is worth. How does a dealer determine what to charge for coins with small defects?
Pillar of the Community
United States
1590 Posts
 Posted 06/24/2012  11:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jmkendall to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It depends on rarity and beginning condition as well as what kind of minor defects. Minor verdagis can grow unless treated so it gets weighted more than say a rim ding or two. A light scratch in a non prime focal area is less of a problem than one in a prime focal area.

But lets say you have an MS 09S VDB with a couple of detracting rim dings. Start with ten percent and let yourself be talked down to 20 percent off.

Take those same dings on a 26S and offer 20 percent off and take 40. Again we are talking about MINOR problems.

Be aware that some people will not want those coins at all, no matter how minor. And others would want a very deep discount..up to 90 percent. But at the end of the day, a 95 Proof Morgan is still a 95 Proof Morgan.
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sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21786 Posts
 Posted 06/25/2012  02:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
An article, whatever it is, is only worth what somebody is prepared to pay for it. If a dealer offers a coin with minor damage at a price that he thinks he can sell it for, it is still up to the buyer to make up his mind if it it is good value for money, for whatever reason to the buyer.

If the buyer is having some trouble to make that decision, the best thing to do is investigate the prices of near equivalent coins and compare the 'bargain' of the coin you are offered to the near equivalents.

If you still have doubts, don't buy.

This process happens all the time with ancient coins. VERY FEW of them are perfect.
Valued Member
United States
366 Posts
 Posted 06/25/2012  08:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add JobIII to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I didn't think about these issues when I started collecting. I've been going through some of the earlier purchases and found a lot have minor issues. Especially with my copper coins.

I've actually found it easier and more profitable to sell these from your collection through ebay. Just make sure you properly describe the coin or include photos that would allow buyers to see the current condition of the coins.
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United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 06/25/2012  6:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
This process happens all the time with ancient coins. VERY FEW of them are perfect.

Mostly due to the eye doctors back a few thousand years ago, never could get the prescriptions right. The workers at the Mints had a lot of problems making dies and punches with those lousy glassesb they were wearing. And the contacts back then too were of poor quality. Worse yet was the material the Mints had to order from companies like the ones that make our roads.
As to the problems with coins. There is a big difference in Post Mint Damage, PMD, and Mirt Errors. As an example look at the famous 1955 Lincoln Cent Doubled Die worth way, way more than the most perfect 55. 3 Legged Buffalo nickel worh way more than a normal Nickel. Even many rumble about a reverse rotated coin. Is it worth more due to a Mint Error or worth less due to it being irritational.
Naturally a coin that has been bounced on the ground is now worth much less than one never bounced. Using a wire wheel to clean a coin too, lowers it's value. But then too, even that could depend on how much damage is done.
To many factors and differences to answer this one exactly.
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Scropper's Avatar
United States
702 Posts
 Posted 06/25/2012  10:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Scropper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I talk about Details Grades and Problem Coins a little bit on my site.

Here's how I look at it in the end. Set that coin next to a line of truly problem free coin of the same variety? Put the problem coin next to each one and ask yourself, "which of these would I rather have?" Then, what grade is the non-problem coin? When you honestly answer the question, you can put a "net grade" on it.

Another way to look at it is "which coin would a person collecting these coins rather have?" A specialist in the series is likely to be more picky than somebody filling a hole for a type set, thus some dealers I work with in early copper have "EAC Grades" for the specialists and "Commercial Grades" for the rest. For the uninitiated, that can be confusing.

It's entirely subjective, thus the grading companies try to stay away from it.
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BuffalosRock's Avatar
United States
500 Posts
 Posted 06/26/2012  11:29 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BuffalosRock to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Obviously the YMMV answer doesn't help a lot. Sure it depends on what kind of defect and how much that detracts from the eye-appeal etc.

Most of the dealers I've talked to about this subject tend to say they price and buy problem coins at around 2 grades lower than a problem-free one. So that might be a "very loose" rule-of-thumb to use and it is where I tend toward when considering such coins - usually lightly cleaned or rim dings on high grade expensive coins I wouldn't be able to afford otherwise.

But I've seen some who want 90% or more of the retail for some problem coins and others willing to dump them for 20%. Defects make for a lot more range than problem-free coins and those can have a big range already.

JMHO
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IndianGoldEagle's Avatar
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36727 Posts
 Posted 06/26/2012  12:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add IndianGoldEagle to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Problem coins usually bring 40-60% of their retail problem free counterparts.
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 Posted 06/26/2012  3:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Problem coins usually bring 40-60% of their retail problem free counterparts.

Completely dependant on the type of problem. Again, so much depends on if PMC or Mint error. Note on page 416 in the Red Book there is a list of approximate values for error coins. Naturally this is based on Mint type errors, not PMD.
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IndianGoldEagle's Avatar
United States
36727 Posts
 Posted 06/26/2012  3:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add IndianGoldEagle to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Error coins will not fall into the same category as problem coins. Problem coins are cleaned, scratched, corroded, rim bumps, anything caused after it left the mint.
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United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 06/26/2012  3:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Error coins will not fall into the same category as problem coins. Problem coins are cleaned, scratched, corroded, rim bumps, anything caused after it left the mint.

Completely true. And with coins damaged after they are minted, so much depends on how much is done. A really small dent may be missed completely by some and yet someone else may rejecct that as completely damaged.
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