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Replies: 11 / Views: 1,499 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1116 Posts |
So far I have a mostly current collection of Kennedy's, and a straight forward complete album of Franklins (without variants) and was thinking of putting together an album of Walking Liberty halves. I don't know much about them and was contemplating on putting together a non-graded set. So I was wondering, can a non-graded be put together inexpensively. I think that it can. Could someone explain what a low ball set is? I don't want to put together a set of culls but a somewhat decent set.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Walking Liberty (WL) set, IMO, would be a very nice looking set to put together. I had a nearly complete set put together over 25 years ago .. and is the one set I wish I had never sold. One suggestion is to do a search on this site and read the old post on WL's. The old posts will give a pretty good idea about what you might expect when starting this set. As for a low ball set, this is where a collector tries to put together the lowest grade set possible. Another suggestion I would have, is to decide what grade you would like to collect, for example VF/XF. Then check prices of all the coins in those grades and add up what your getting into. For this set, the coins from 1940 through 1947 can be purchased at melt to say $25 each .. depending what grade you decide and where you purchase. The coins from 1916 through 1921 are you higher priced coins in VF/XF many of these coins could get into multiple hundreds each, and can be hard to find in problem free coins. For me, I like to figure out what the highest priced coins will cost me, in the grades I choose and commit to spending that amount. Even if it is a plan that will take you years to complete. For example if you decide you will someday purchase a VF/XF 1921 D and will someday spend $500 for that coin make the commitment, even start putting funds away for that purchase .. with a plan .. and the funds and commitment it will make it easier to make that purchase when the time comes. Quote: So I was wondering, can a non-graded be put together inexpensively. I think that it can If you were going to be happy with AG/G coins with the top coins in this set, then it may be possible, I would think the 21's. 16's and 17's would still have some premium.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
By definition a low ball set is one comprised of coins which are the lowest of the low possible and still be able to identify the coin. Such a set is not one to take seriously in my opinion. What's the point of such a set even for reference purposes? If you mean non-graded as not being graded by a TPG, then you could put together a very nice set in VF - AU, VF/XF for the key dates and in XF/AU for the more common issues and still have a set you can be proud of. Pick up a copy of Walking Liberty half dollars by Anthony Swiatek and it will help you immensely. As with most long running series there will be dates and mints that are better struck than others and knowing details such as this will help you in your endeavor to put together a nice collection of halves. Ed ANA LM-3175
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1116 Posts |
I am definitely going to be working with non TPG coins. For some reason, I have not developed an affinity for graded coins for whatever reason. I am going to try and put together this set from the best coins that I can afford at the time of purchase. So that being said then the question that I have on my mind is if I purchase the war years in say au and then go after the key dates in lower grades, outside of being cheaper would the set be looking weird? I guess that I'll have to see what kind of money I will have to throw into this set. So it's off to Numismedia to see what prices they show for these coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1770 Posts |
if money is an issue try for at least EF and AU then you can always upgrade in the future - this is what I did although my rare key issues are still in the EF grade
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3294 Posts |
some of them are still 1k coins in xf, so nice job Monks
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Valued Member
United States
113 Posts |
You could probably get a nice looking set sticking with VF or better up for the 1934-47 dates. The 38-D will set you back a bit in almost any condition, but they are not difficult to find. The earlier dates are mostly a bear (and expensive) in problem-free VF and higher. You'll find the 1917 easily enough, but the 1919's, 21's, 23-S and 27-S are real tough to find. If any nice problem free VF or better pops up, it's usually bought up very quickly.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Nice looking coins. And not to easy to complete but rather easy to find almost all of them. You really should try to find coin shows. I'm now working on set #6 with only a few left to complete that one. Oddly enough at coin shows I've seen enough of those Walking Liberty halves that if someone wanted to they could make a complet set in one day if they had the money. Many of the really common ones are in the $20 or less range and in great shape too. Many in much less amounts if you want low grades.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1116 Posts |
There is a coin show in my area this weekend. I already have a list of things that I want to try and get, this is something else for my list.
I forgot about the coin show coming up until you mentioned it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1770 Posts |
thanks nod, always loved the half dollar ( my favorite coin ) so I went a little crazy 15 yrs ago and completed the WL and franklin set. the barbers of course are in a league all by themselves but EF grades I'm currently working on now
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1510 Posts |
I got a blank half dollar book and wrote in the dates--1892 to 1963--year set, so I dont have to get nailed with a high priced mint mark. Works good.
Retired USAF 1983-2003
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Pillar of the Community
United States
500 Posts |
Completing the whole set is an expensive and daunting proposition IMO. Had I to start anew I'd probably take out the first page of my album and not even look for those tuff key dates. Just VF's in some of those run many hundreds.
I have MS62-MS65 in my first "line" ( 16-17 ) and from 1929D up. But anywhere from F12(21D) to AU55 on most of those "tuffies"/keys in between. Always looking to upgrade but I have many thousands already in them.
A 1934 - 1947 run is the easiest. I could find some solid AU55s even for 1934 and the 40's in the local dealer's 2 for $32 Walker bin. An AU run of those dates wouldn't cost that terribly much except that dreaded 38D and a handful of others. But going for the whole run you're going to have to realize you'll be accepting some fugly ones in there or pay big bucks for them.
Heck of a nice looker in BU though! ;)
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Replies: 11 / Views: 1,499 |
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