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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,705 |
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Valued Member
United States
51 Posts |
Please let me know if you think this coin has been cleaned or altered in any way. On the obverse to the right, there appears to be a crack? What do you think? What grade would you place this, maybe EF? Just wondering what may be it's value, PCGS has this @ EF-40 = $1600. What do you think? *** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. *** 
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Not sure about the coin itself, but I wouldnt buy a coin of that value unslabbed personally
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
What would the slabbing do? I know of some dealers that don't really like slabbed coins (they don't place a higher value on them). Can you take a guess on the coin? Does it look like it's been cleaned or anything? I can't see any fine scratches. Would a die crack add or subtract from the value?
Edited by andym 07/02/2012 12:03 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
Quote: What would the slabbing do? It would keep you from losing your shirt on a coin that is potentially very valuable if it does not have any problems. Those images look like scans which are nice for showing detail but tend not to show the true color of the coin. VF is @$600 while EF is almost 3x more valuable @$1710 per Numismedia, that is a huge spread and the value will be greatly affected if this coin has been cleaned. Quote: Would a die crack add or subtract from the value It would only add a premium if it was a diagnostic for a rare Browning variety. Quote: I know of some dealers that don't really like slabbed coins Unless the dealer is an old-school EACer, a dealer that dislikes slabs tends to be one that likes to sell problem coins but not disclose the problems.
Edited by biokemist6 07/02/2012 01:12 am
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Slabbing from a reputable TPG like PCGS or NGC will eliminate the vast majority of cleaned coins so you dont really have to worry it was cleaned or it will say it was. The other thing it does is protect your investment. Say a coin is worth 1600 in a 66 but 1000 in a 65. The dealer can tell you all day long its a 66 but if it gets slabbed as a 65 if it gets sent in youre out 600 bucks. If you had to resell it it also makes it MUCH easier. Some collectors dont like slabbed coins but a lot do. Even some that dont like it will buy them slabbed and crack them out. Personally I think most dealers that dont like slabbed coins are because they like to overgrade their coins and it makes them harder to sell the coin for a lot more than its counterparts of the same grade are going for, or like was mentioned above it allows them to sell problem coins easier. You know a general ballpark for the slab where when its raw a lot is up for debate. They may honestly feel its the grade they say it is, but its so subjective as far as I'm concerned a 66 is only a 66 if its in a slab saying so when were talking about coins of this value. Not all cleaning would leave scratches if the coin was soaked in something and not rubbed cleaned. I'm not familiar enough with this series to take a guess on the coin ill leave that for the others who know far more about it than me. Just wanted to give you a heads up as I would hate to see someone get turned off from collecting from a deal of this value going bad. But at the end of the day collect what you like how you like it whether it be slabbed or raw. Just my 2 cents
Edited by basebal21 07/02/2012 12:26 am
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
That's a B-3, which shows the crack in later die states. Yours looks nearly terminal. This die pair was originally used to strike Proofs, and then passed on to business strikes. You should also see signs of arrowhead clashing around star 8. R.2 as a business strike, but yours being such a late die state is both somewhat rarer and possibly more valuable to the right buyer.
Touch to call from a scan, but I'm inclined to think this one's recovering from a very old cleaning. The more open areas of the reverse field look "darker" than they ought, which under most scanners means it's brighter than I'd expect of a coin with such patina elsewhere. As regards details, yeah, it's got a very good claim at EF40.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
I didn't mean he doesn't like slabbed coins, but more that he doesn't give one a premium if the coin is slabbed. He ALWAYS grades it himself and says that PCGS can have different people grade the same coin differently. He feels his opinion is just as valid as any at PCGS.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
SsuperDdave, thanks. You are on to something that I don't understand. B-3, terminal, R.2, star 8. I don't understand. I guess I should understand this before assessing a possible value. Can you direct me somehow? Thanks again. Quote: That's a B-3, which shows the crack in later die states. Yours looks nearly terminal. This die pair was originally used to strike Proofs, and then passed on to business strikes. You should also see signs of arrowhead clashing around star 8. R.2 as a business strike, but yours being such a late die state is both somewhat rarer and possibly more valuable to the right buyer.
Touch to call from a scan, but I'm inclined to think this one's recovering from a very old cleaning. The more open areas of the reverse field look "darker" than they ought, which under most scanners means it's brighter than I'd expect of a coin with such patina elsewhere. As regards details, yeah, it's got a very good claim at EF40. .
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: He feels his opinion is just as valid as any at PCGS.
He may feel that way, but the market disagrees.
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
It's just that I can get this coin at around $700 and I was wondering if it was worth it. BTW, I was wondering if there's a way you can "quote" with a button click rather than manually entering the quote forum codes. basebal21, it's just his opinion. I have plenty of slabbed coins (even some MS-70 which he swears can't be higher than MS-69) which I have fought with him over. You're probably right, he doesn't have the eye to tell the difference, or he refuses to pay the difference between increased grades. Quote: He may feel that way, but the market disagrees.
Edited by andym 07/02/2012 09:13 am
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
Well I figured out B-3 means Browning-3, but still generally in the dark on how these are assessed & what it all means to collectors of these types. I discovered "terminal" are dies on the verge of failure. http://www.cointalk.com/t59262/
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
This coin might be of additional interest to one who collects them by variety. There are many such collectors of this early silver. They've been studied and researched for so long that rarity estimates (the R.2 I mentioned) are considered pretty accurate, giving the buyer more confidence that rarity-based price variations are worthwhile.
I've been researching this one pretty extensively last night and today. My "always stop here" site, Heritage Auctions' incredible archive, indicates they've offered almost 60 attributed B-3's. Perhaps a third of them show the die crack in various stages, none any later than yours.
Heritage has archived so many sales that certain inferences regarding rarity can be made just from their results, with the understanding that things are skewed a bit by the fact that they'll tend to be selling the "more collectible" examples of a given coin - for this one, I'd guess the lower grades will be underrepresented because they're not particularly hard to find. It would have been a popular denomination for the day, and therefore saw plenty of circulation.
Up in this coin's grade, though, things begin getting scarce. Fewer than half of Heritage's results are XF40 and above, and only 4 have ever been offered (going back to 1993) in Mint State. I'd expect those grades to be more likely to appear due to their collectibility, indicating to me that they're scarce indeed especially considering the relatively-large mintage for the period.
I will not hazard a definitive opinion regarding the originality of this coin's surfaces from scans, but it seems to me to be an easy EF40 with a shot at 45. In a "righteous" (graded, not Genuine-designated for cleaning or something else) PCGS slab, this would be worth $1400-1800 at retail, I think. Prices bounce around a bit, depending on the enthusiasm of the particular pool of buyers viewing the coin. If I were liquidating it, I'd hold it for consignment to one of the signature yearly auctions of whatever house chosen, guaranteeing the largest potential audience.
I'd be sore tempted at $700.
The quality of your dealer's opinion isn't really relevant to this discussion. Assuming he's up on the value of this coin, he's offering it to you for the "cleaned" price. And his opinion won't matter as regards resale, because your audience of potential buyers will vanish if the coin isn't in a reputable slab.
This coin needs to be in plastic, preferably PCGS'. Even if it's a Genuine designation - the scans indicate that even if cleaned, it's not a harsh cleaning. A discerning buyer would likely be happy to throw $700 at you for it in a Genuine slab. And if you get it into *any* righteous slab, you've just doubled your investment.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
Browning-3 is the designation for the specific obverse and reverse die pairing, think of it like a VAM for Bust Quarters. The nomenclature comes from A.W. Browning who authored the primary reference book on Early Quarter Dollars(1796-1838). R-2 refers to the rarity rating with R-1 being the most common and R-8 being the rarest. Star 8 is the first upper right star, I can see the clashing in your image.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: basebal21, it's just his opinion. I have plenty of slabbed coins (even some MS-70 which he swears can't be higher than MS-69) which I have fought with him over. You're probably right, he doesn't have the eye to tell the difference, or he refuses to pay the difference between increased grades. He honestly just sounds like a sleezy dealer looking to take advantage of his customers, rip people off, or his ego is out of control. Either way hes not someone I would do business with. Arguing over whether a pcgs 70 is a 70 is insane. If it developed some spotting fine the price can be debated, but saying its really a 69 is just trying to rip people off. I would have said I have 9 that came back 69s at home, Ill take youre word for it that this is a 69 if you take my word for it the 69s are 70s. And at some point I would just say enough, your word isn't even close to theirs and either pay me for a 70 or I'm leaving. But like dave said the coin does need to be in plastic to sell it yourself. Which also brings up the question of why this one isn't. You ALWAYS see coins of this value graded, its just much much much easier to sell. So why isn't this one? What does he know about this coin that you dont that hes trying to hide but not sending it in? Quote: BTW, I was wondering if there's a way you can "quote" with a button click rather than manually entering the quote forum codes. If you use the reply to thread link at the top of the thread theres a quote button in there 2nd from the right on the format line
Edited by basebal21 07/02/2012 12:40 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
basebal21, actually I don't have any PCGS-70's which are near to impossible to get from what I understand. I do have a number of NGC-70's though, which I guess would go PCGS-69 maybe. But the NGC guide is appropriately lower than the PCGS guide, so it "balances out" I guess.
SsuperDdave & biokemist6, than you very much for the additional detail. I wish there was a guide on the web to give us all of this detail. I guess I'll get the coin and consider slabbing it. The last time I looked at slabbing, the costs seemed to be prohibitive, but maybe for this more rarer find it may be appropriate, you think?
On the cost-prohibitive coins, they were some recent silver territorial proof quarters. They were in the case (of which I have 20 cases) but no boxes and no Certificates of Authentication. Not many seemed interested in them in just the set plastic case without the box & COA, so I considered breaking them out to get them individually certified. It didn't seem worth the cost.
Edited by andym 07/02/2012 12:55 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
51 Posts |
Yes, I see this, but this is barely a step above what I was doing myself. I guess there's no way of pressing a button within someone's post to automatically get a quote of his post. Many other forums have a feature to do this. Quote: If you use the reply to thread link at the top of the thread theres a quote button in there 2nd from the right on the format line
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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,705 |