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 Replies: 16 / Views: 2,736 |
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Valued Member
United States
359 Posts |
I took out some of my slab boxes and noticed that a few of the coins are toning, some may end up toning nicely, but some are blotchy brown. My storage process for these self slabbed coins is: 1. Carefully insert coin into a Coin World Premier holder 2. Give the coin a quick blast of air from a compressed air can 3. Close the slab after inserting the label printed on a laser jet printer on white paper 4. Slab is stored in PCGS style box 5. 2 PCGS style boxes are stored in a 2 gallon Ziploc with a 40 gram silica gel canister 6. Bag is sealed 7. Stored in a cool area in a closet I have had no luck with 4 2009 proof cents, these are very blotchy and tough to look at  . It is my 2nd go around with these 2009's. A few of the other coins, some from a 1963 proof set have some rim toning. I have a 2009 cent proof set in original packaging in another Ziploc with silica gel that is tone free.. The slab boxes are not air tight, nor are the slabs, would it help to drill a hole in the slab box to get some more air movement? Or have silica gel in the slab box that is then in a Ziploc? How do you do it? What would you suggest to help this process? I do have some PCGS slabbed coins in the boxes and they are all perfect. There are only 4 or so in the boxes with 75 or so coins.. Thanks for your assistance. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1195 Posts |
Likley culprits are that paper with the laser-jet ink and that box you are using. They may contain compounds that are not archival-safe (not free of acidic compounds).
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Valued Member
Australia
216 Posts |
Maybe replace the air (oxygen) with CO2 or nitrogen.
More inert.
Also the toner/developer on the laser printer is a bad idea. The developer especially so. Nasty stuff that.
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
Also the canned air may contain some moisture. John1  |
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Valued Member
 United States
359 Posts |
After some investigation it turns out that the compressed air I am using is not labeled to be moisture free.. The same manufacturer makes a product that is labeled moisture free. This could be my issue. There is an MSDS provided for the case top/bottom. http://www.amosadvantage.com/scotto...ier_cwch.aspI am thinking of going to NGC boxes anyway, so I may go this way a little faster. Now the toner with labels. I will have to think on this one.. The moisture in the compressed air may be the issue. Would it be any better to print labels with ink jet? I would think that any type of ink/toner would be bad.. Any others print coin labels on laser printers? Any toning issues? Thanks for the replies already..  |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
Whitened paper contains chlorine based bleaching compounds. THAT may be a factor.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Possibly it is mostly what has already been stated. The air in those cans could contain moisture and you are blasting the coins with moisture. As noted almost any type of ink that requires drying must emit something in order for it to dry. Most printers have in their instruction manuals some type of statement that it is always better to allow a colored printed page to sit somewhere to dry completely.
What you may want to do is after closing your slabs, seal the edges with a clear tape. Add the lables to the outside of the slabs. Do not seal the edges with a glue since they too require the expenditure of something to allow them to harden.
Adding those moisture absorbing gel packs is a good idea but may not absorb the gasses given off from drying ink.
And remember that when you prepare all this the temperature may be much higher than the storage area. Ever notice how moisture settles out on items when going from one temperature to a different one?
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Valued Member
United States
359 Posts |
Thanks again.
Few things to change in the process..
1. I will use moisture free air on the coins
2. I will put the labels on the outside of the slab
3. As far as the labels go, it seems that anything I write or have printed on them will emit some sort of gas during the drying process, so I will print them, let them sit for a few days and then put them on the outside of the slab.
I see that clear tape is recommended to seal slabs and I will need that to adhere the labels to the slabs. Is clear "Scotch" tape safe for this?
Thanks all!
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Valued Member
Australia
216 Posts |
If you are looking to seal the plastic holders, they are the plastic ones right.
How about "welding" the join with a soldering iron.
Close and clip the holder, then run the hot iron along the seam.
Just a suggestion.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
I wonder if you laminated the labels to trap any gas that may be emitted from them if that would help
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Valued Member
United States
359 Posts |
Peter, the plastic may weld or it may be the type that just melts away. I am not too worried about trying to seal the slab, as I don't think it will ever be truely air tight. Even pcgs or ngc slabs aren't air tight.
I thought about laminating, but that would introduce a new plastic to the equation. Not sure how that would impact things. Thanks for the tips though.
I got some double sided tape to put the labels on the outside of the slab.. Will see how that works.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
I thought about laminating, but that would introduce a new plastic to the equation. Not sure how that would impact things. What if you just put the laminated on the outside or taped over the top of the label too to keep it covered. Just trying to think of ways to keep that ink gas out of the boxes all together since the slabs arent air tight |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
If they are acrylic plastic holders, they can be sealed by using acetone as a welding cement. Apply a tiny droplet with the point of a pin to the surfaces to be joined.
Experiment first! Skill is needed to do this.
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Valued Member
United States
359 Posts |
Quote:
What if you just put the laminated on the outside or taped over the top of the label too to keep it covered.
Just trying to think of ways to keep that ink gas out of the boxes all together since the slabs arent air tight I may go with tape over top of the label and a 2 sided tape to hold the label to the outside of the holder. Thanks for the continued feedback and ideas! Quote:
Experiment first! Skill is needed to do this. Sounds like it could be challenging. A possible option. |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote:
I may go with tape over top of the label and a 2 sided tape to hold the label to the outside of the holder. Thanks for the continued feedback and ideas!
Hope it all works out for the best. For the experimenting it would definitely take some time but you could get some cheap coins of the same material as the ones you have and slab them the new way leave them for however long it took the others to tone and check them and see how theyve held up. Patience would obviously be key lol |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19935 Posts |
I don't see an issue, but obviously you have one. The first thing I don't like is those holders, they just snap shut and are far from air tight. It must be the holder, the paper on the label or the ink on them. I really think the Air-Tite capsules are the best first level storage you can buy.
I use canned air too but just to blow out the airtite. I also rinse every coin with acetone and then into an airtite. All my proofs and other stuff still look perfect today.....just as I put them in.
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Replies: 16 / Views: 2,736 |
Posted 07/16/2012 10:12 pm
