Any Good Techniques To Buff Scratches Off A Slab?

You could always send 'em back to the original TPG'er for "reholdering", which I think is approx $10 per, plus back and forth shipping (could get pricey)...if you don't want to put the "elbow grease" into them.

Watching with interest...same dilemma.

Are the slabs made from Plexiglas? If so...

"In the event that, after taking meticulous steps to prevent it, your fine piece of Plexiglass acrylic becomes scratched, HAVE NO FEAR. Fine scratches can be removed with a mild abrasive polish such as Novus #2, or Novus #3. Heavier scratches, such that you can feel with your fingernail, will require some elbow effort to remove with a bit of sanding and buffing. A series of grits (150,400,600) followed by a buffing wheel and available buffing compound, will restore the luster of your Plexiglass acrylic! Of course, all of these products are available in the ACCESSORIES section of ePlastics...."

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Pl...crylic-Sheet

How about buffing compound? It has a mild abrasive and it is what "headlight restorer" use...basically.

"Using a clean, soft cloth, polish with a firm back-and-forth motion at right angles to the scratches. Keep the cloth saturated with polish at all times.

When the worst scratches have been polished out, reapply NOVUS No.2 uniformly in a circular motion to the entire surface using short, circular strokes and light pressure. Allow to dry to a light haze.

Using a clean portion of the cloth, buff the surface to a slippery glaze using firm, short strokes. This procedure is imperative in achieving the best results."

http://www.novuspolish.com/fine_scr...remover.html

I read in another forum about "Kit Scratch Out"

The only thing I can suggest is getting a headlight restoration kit. Specifically designed for cleaning up and repolishing clear plastic headlights. It's like a 3 or 4 step process of wet sanding the plastic using different grit paper and compound, then finishing with a clear filler, sealer, polisher thing. Worked great on my headlights. Don't know if I would try it on a slab though.

I have also tried the headlight stuff and didn't get very good results with it but I have seen people use the stuff BadThad is referring to (Slab Renew) and it looked like it did a better job. I have also used car "polish" (not wax) with a buffing wheel on a dremel and it did an alright job as well but you have to be careful not to keep it in the same spot at to fast of a speed because I am sure it will start to melt the plastic, so I always keep it moving

If someone could come up with a home scratch removal/repair kit for slabs there would probably be some very nice pay days in their future

Not sure which ones you tried but I've fantastic results with some of them. At Walmart they have about 5 or more different ones. I use one that starts with a M but can't remember the entire name. No second or third steps, just put on, rub, wipe off. I've also had some luck with Rain-X. It is great for cleaning but not restoring plastic. My house is sort of lite up with well over 100 Solar Lights, front and back. People keep giving them to me because they stop working. In about 90% of the time the solar collector is completely dirty. I've used that lens cleaner and poof, one new solar light. I've used that stuff on headlights, tail lights, plastic sun glasses, etc. Never tried on a coin slab since I don't have any.
If you do try the lens cleaners at places like Walmart, do not buy the multiple step stuff. Yes that stuff is worthless. The one step stuff works the best or at least for everything plastic I've tried it on. Just can't remember the name but I know it is in a black plastic container and starts with M.

devilsbite: The cerium oxise I used would have been around 10,000 grade. It cost me $35 for a pound, which is more than adequate.

About a 1/2 gramme of cerium oxide powder is mixed into a smooth watery paste in an eggcup. I used a hard rubber slab about 4mm thick 3" x 4" with a sharpened edge, as backing, over which I wrapped a piece of corrugated cardboard. The cardboard is charged with the watery paste and rubbed longitudinally along the score marks.

It is a long slow process, that takes hours. I would suggest that you have your radio going to avoid boredom while doing this job. It is a messy job, but can be hosed down easily.

A small water cooled buffing wheel can be used, to speed the job up, and to avoid localised heating of the glass, to avoid cracking it. Such a specialised tool is very difficult to find.

The 10,000 grade cerium oxide, used with a soft rag would have been perfectly useful for removing fine scratches from a coin slab, but it IS messy, and you need to know that the slab is sealed properly.

I agree. Rotary tools are for cutting slabs, not cleaning them.