Not sure how I missed this before, but to follow-up...
Quote: I haven't tested it out but I rather think a battery-powered wireless sensor wouldn't be able to transmit through the walls of a safe.
It does not have to be on the inside. A good one will have a tamper switch (if someone tries to remove or open it). You can put it on the outside, unless you are worried about it looking ugly.
Quote: Why wouldn't you leave a running NAS in a safe? If the drives spin down, the heat production should be minimal.
I am not concerned about it sitting in there during normal down-time, I am concerned about it being there during active use. A drive in use can heat up rather fast; a running drive in an enclosed space even faster. It might be okay if you plan to have the safe open when the drive is being (heavily) used, but I would be worried if the door is closed.
Then again, since the NAS is not your only backup, you might have nothing to lose for trying, right?
Quote: I finally installed my lighting system in the safe tonight, and I'm quite pleased with the results.
Here is a great video on safes, covers the Chinese safes, vs. American made, and the important part - the door and metal gauge thickness. It's based on guns, but the information is still very sound!
ltK-bDbADa8
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.
@jbuck, just getting back to your comments...been a long few days... phew....
Quote: [The alarm sensor] does not have to be on the inside. A good one will have a tamper switch (if someone tries to remove or open it). You can put it on the outside, unless you are worried about it looking ugly.
Good point. And yes, I am actually concerned about how the safe looks so I'd prefer an inside mount. I installed Cat-5 into the safe when I ran the power for the lighting system. So I may just rig up some 2-wire sensor for open/close and (like you suggested) alarm on tamper too. The Cat-5 line is very well hidden but if the door is opened OR the line is cut, it would alarm. There are few folks who know enough about what I have and my system to fail all of my systems without raising an alarm. In fact exactly one; me.
Quote: I am not concerned about [a NAS] sitting in there during normal down-time, I am concerned about it being there during active use. A drive in use can heat up rather fast; a running drive in an enclosed space even faster. It might be okay if you plan to have the safe open when the drive is being (heavily) used, but I would be worried if the door is closed.
Agreed. I generally keep the safe open unless I am right there next to it, and my access of my NAS coincides with that behavior most of the time. I do see applications where I'm on the road and need to access the NAS with the safe all buttoned up, so your point is a valid one.
Quote: Then again, since the NAS is not your only backup, you might have nothing to lose for trying, right?
Quite right, sir. A problem is I would have to run power into the safe. Someone mentioned that having copper run directly into your safe is a bad idea. And I agree.... marginal (ahem) heat conductor that copper is and all. However, my primary concern is security at this point. I think I will explore POE.
@pennrj430 - Thanks! It's a Hollon Republic RG-22 and it's around 15 cubic feet. I believe it's a Korean import but I'm not sure. I did some research on it and found it to be a great buy for the price point (~$1500). My local locksmith was having a safe sale and I got a steep discount on it, otherwise I probably would have spent the money on a Liberty.
The two big concerns when getting a safe (IMO) are;
1. Delivery in only an unmarked van - not something that says SAFES,etc. on the side.
2. Location & securing of the safe in your space. I'd always bolt or somehow anchor the safe to the floor, even a huge heavy one. Thieves don't care about damage as they haul your safe out.
A good friend of mine lost a 650 lb. safe from his third floor office in an old Victorian house. Took them maybe 5-10 minutes to drag it off. They used a four wheel dolly to roll it to the stairs where they pushed it down to the second floor landing where there was a sun deck in the back then dollied it to the balcony and pushed it off to the ground 10' below. They must have had a truck or van to haul it off, but beyond loosing the safe, which was almost empty, only tax records, and some personal papers, no money, jewels, coins or gold, LOL, the office sustained a lot of physical damage. Walls, flooring, stairwell, etc. from it being drug out then pushed through the balcony railing, the thieves kicked that down to make a way to shove it off. It happened on a Sunday afternoon. My friend was in the process of moving his coin office and had already removed all his inventory for the move that week, lucky for him.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.
Disclaimer: While a tremendous amount of effort goes into ensuring the accuracy of the information contained in this site, Coin Community assumes no liability for errors. Copyright 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Family- all rights reserved worldwide. Use of any images or content on this website without prior written permission of Coin Community or the original lender is strictly prohibited. Contact Us | Advertise Here | Privacy Policy / Terms of Use