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How Do I Grade A Overstruck Coin?

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Ngdawa's Avatar
Sweden
347 Posts
 Posted 02/08/2013  06:58 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Ngdawa to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hi!
I have a(n) overstrucked coin, and now I am wondering; how do I grade it? Since it has never been uncirculated, and probably never more than an F from the beginning, is there any way to grade it? Is it more valuable than an original, or is it worth less? Is there a catalog just for overstrucks?

Here's the coin I'm talking about:
How-Do-I-Grade-A-Overstruck-Coin?



This is how the host coin looks like:
How-Do-I-Grade-A-Overstruck-Coin?
Edited by Ngdawa
02/08/2013 06:59 am
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sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21786 Posts
 Posted 02/08/2013  07:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Normally, the host coin and the overstrike details are graded separately.
That is what I find as most common practice in auction catalogues.
Valued Member
Ngdawa's Avatar
Sweden
347 Posts
 Posted 02/08/2013  5:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ngdawa to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
OK, so, what does that mean? Is it about how clear the overstruck are, or is it about how much details of the host coins that are visible?

I just added a photo of the host coins just to show how it looks like (I got the host coin after I learned which coin my overstruck coin was struck on (wow, that was an interesting sentence.. )
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Sap's Avatar
Australia
16810 Posts
 Posted 02/08/2013  7:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Sap to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sel's comment is more in line with countermarked coins, where significant details from the original coin survive. Australian holey dollars, for example, are typically given two grades, one for the host dollar, and one for the counterstamp.

For overstruck coins such as Australian "dumps", where the undertype is either completely obliterated or only tiny remnants remain, then the grade of the undertype is largely irrelevant; much of the "wear" on the undertype would have actually been caused by the overstriking process. In such cases, only the wear on the overstrike is used to determine the grade.

Quote:
Since it has never been uncirculated, and probably never more than an F from the beginning, is there any way to grade it?

I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. This coin was indeed uncirculated, not just once but twice - in its original incarnation as an emergency daler, then again as an overstruck ore. As I understand it, every single example of this type of coin was overstruck on old emergency dalers.

Now, it may not have "looked" very uncirculated, since the overstriking was particularly weak on this piece. But weak strike does not affect technical grade. I'll be the first to admit I have difficulty telling the difference between "weak strike" and "wear" on a worn coin, and usually if I can't tell the difference I'll simply dismiss any "missing detail" as wear, and grade it accordingly.

In this case, there are significant details missing from the crowns, on both sides. The missing bits are rather uniformly spread across the design, so I'd tend to class it as wear, rather than weak strike (which on overstruck coins is typically patchy). I'd grade it Fine (American VF).
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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jcmworld's Avatar
United States
567 Posts
 Posted 02/08/2013  8:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jcmworld to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree with the above. You rin into this problem with Russian coppers all the time. You grade the coin on the quality, evenness, and sharpness of the overstrike, and note the undertype if it is possible to identify.
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DVCollector's Avatar
United States
10045 Posts
 Posted 02/08/2013  9:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It looks like the coin saw circulation after the re-strike, but I'm unsure how much. I don't think American grades matter in this case; I would say "1" by Nordic grading.
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Ngdawa's Avatar
Sweden
347 Posts
 Posted 02/09/2013  7:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ngdawa to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think it's getting clearer for me, thanks for your help guys!
There is just one thing that bothers me, and that is; I can't see the year anywhere. Someone told me it's a 1724. From what I can remember it's a small shield. I don't know if any of you have any knowledge of Swedish coins (I guess I should be the expert here, lol!)

Thanks for the grading too! So you say it's a VF (or 1)?
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