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Newcomb Varieties Of Large Cent.

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buddy16cat's Avatar
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 Posted 05/27/2013  4:39 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add buddy16cat to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I was looking at this site about different varieties of large cent but didn't explain anything about the different varieties. Where do you get this information at. For instance, I bought this large cent and it has several varieties. Which on is this?


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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 05/27/2013  5:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Most information of this type is not available in one place online - people capable of attributing these varieties have shelled out their own cash for printed reference material. These reference sources represent - in many cases - a lifetime's work on the part of the author, and they are deserving of compensation for their huge effort.

As is the case with Newcomb. Like most, Newcomb varieties are named for the man who devoted his life to researching them.

To determine the variety for your Cent would require images of both obverse and reverse; some of the pickups involve the relationships between lettering and the leaves of the wreath on the reverse. In many cases it might require even larger images than the one you've posted, as the differences can be very subtle.
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buddy16cat's Avatar
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 Posted 05/27/2013  5:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add buddy16cat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I tried to post a large picture before of an other coin but the coin optimizer page didn't work. I optimized the image and it still said no pictured of 100k. I could post a picture saved in Photobucket. Just because information is available on the web doesn't mean it is completely free. For example, there are Google ads on this site. On the other hand though, ads have a low click through rate and if you sell the book, you are guaranteed a certain amount. I read somewhere those reference books can get really expensive and I would think that is partly because the volume being sold just isn't there.

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Edited by buddy16cat
05/27/2013 5:32 pm
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 05/27/2013  5:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I read somewhere those reference books can get really expensive.


Truth. The "go-to" book for later-date Large Cents (1840-1857) is the book by John Grellman and Jules Reiver; Mr. Grellman is still with us and his book is available for $100 straight from him. The earlier issues are covered by a two-volume set from William Noyes, and if you can find a set (debatable), it's going to cost you upwards of $300.

With that said, there's a pretty decent database for many varieties (of differing coin issues) available on the Internet. The trouble is, it's scattered far and wide across forums and auction results from good samaritans who have attributed coins for others who have asked the same questions you are. For everything but Morgans and Bust Halves, if you see me offer an attribution it's only because I've datamined those varying sources and come up with information I feel complete for the coin in question. It's not for the faint of heart.
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 Posted 05/27/2013  5:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add buddy16cat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Actually, I just found that if you have paid membership to NGC because you submit coins to them, your paid membership includes a database with all the Newcomb varieties that NGC identifies and adds to your slab when you get the coin graded. I have read about people good at picking out and identifying varieties and pick them out at shows and shops and was wondering where they got there information from. The least expensive copy of "Attribution Guide for United States Large Cents 1840-1857" for sale is for $250.
Edited by buddy16cat
05/27/2013 6:17 pm
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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bpoc1's Avatar
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 Posted 05/28/2013  06:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bpoc1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
SsuperDdave, thanks for the link.
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 Posted 06/24/2013  08:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add flathead61 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
N7?
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Conder101's Avatar
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 Posted 06/24/2013  11:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The late dates can be very difficult to attribute. The only really "noticeable" variation between them comes from the position of the date punch with respect to the bust above it and the denticals below. Other than that positioning the only other features are cracks and tiny points or lines left on the die face from the surface finishing. These points and lines are often difficult to see even on high grade coins (XF and up). On lower grade coins they can be impossible and typically they will not show up in images even on high grade coins.

What I can see after I blow up the enlarged image above is that the point of the bust does not the left edge of the point of the one. Going by the date positioning numbers in Grellman it is in position 3 or 4. The point of the curl over the 8 is to the right of the center of the right side of the 8 but is left of the right edge of the 8. That would be position 6 or 7. The combination of those two positions eliminates everything except N-7,8,21,22 and (26). The distance of the 4 from the curl above it I estimate is position 5 or 6. (3 would be just touching it and 4 almost touching. It is down further than that but not OBVIOUSLY away which would be 7.) That eliminates N-21 and (26). ow here is where I run into a problem. The left edge of the left foot of the 1 is clearly over the center if the dentical. That is position 1. None of N-7,8 or 22 have that position. Looking over the table of date position numbers that position only shows up on four varieties and two of them have position numbers nowhere close to the other numbers I've come up with so far. But N-9 and (27) is close. So far I have come up with 4 or 5, 6 or 7, and 5 or 6 and 1. (Point of Bust, Point of curl, distance of 4 from curl, and edge of foot over dentical.) N-9 and (27) have numbers 4,8,5,1. I can't explain that 8 but other than that it is a very good fit. 9 and (27) share the same obv so I check other diagnostics listed in the book and I can't see much EXCEPT, a small lump just above and to the right of the right foot of Y in LIBERTY, and he says the lower half of the date is weakly impressed in the die. Those both fit. From other descriptions of those two varieties I would say it is either a late N-9 or an early N-(27) and I am leaning toward a late N-9 because I think I can see a small point coming out horizontally from the middle of the right upright of the M in AMERICA. N-(27) doesn't have that but the N-9 does.
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 Posted 06/24/2013  12:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add flathead61 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for all the info,Condor!!
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 Posted 06/25/2013  5:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cipster to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The late dates can be very difficult to attribute.


It's refreshing to hear this from someone else on the forum. I have the Grellmann book and use it all the time. It's a great reference but the markers that identify the variety of the late dates are often very minor markers and often are not visible unless the coin is in great condition. I also try to use the date but even it is not easy. I find the early large cents generally easier to attribute because of significant die variations.
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Edited by cipster
06/25/2013 5:05 pm
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OldSkoolMadSkilz's Avatar
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 Posted 06/25/2013  11:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add OldSkoolMadSkilz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I too agree. Not only are the variations extremely subtle, but most of the late dates have so many varieties. The only late dates I'll attempt are 1846, 1847 and 1857.
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BluegrassRiver's Avatar
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 Posted 08/05/2013  2:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BluegrassRiver to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I got the Grellman book from the ANA Library checkout for no cost other than postage. I was very frustrated with it because it seemed written for mint state examples only. My circulated coins could not be attributed. Next time I get it, I will pay closer attention to the date placement which is cumbersome too.
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buddy16cat's Avatar
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 Posted 08/06/2013  9:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add buddy16cat to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A local dealer has a box of large cent that he has been selling to to me at $10 a piece, $8 if I buy the whole box. I should get over there and see if he has any more older dates. I sold the older dates I bought. One was an 1840 small date. I read N-9 is a very scarce variety.
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 Posted 08/07/2013  04:20 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add january1may to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, a few months back, on another thread with essentially the same topic, someone suggested the Dan Holmes collection photos (available online in relevant auction archives).
I suppose I'd better link that thread, because it has lots of other good links and discussion
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 Posted 08/07/2013  2:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add OldSkoolMadSkilz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I was very frustrated with it because it seemed written for mint state examples only.


Yup. For late dates, besides small differences in the size and position of the date, the attributable features pretty much disappear below VF. Try removing the gunk at the base of the features. Sometimes a distinguishing die spur will pop out.
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