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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,445 |
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New Member
United States
20 Posts |
Hello all. I am quite new here as I haven't really collected coins before. My grandmother recently passed away and she had quite a large collection of coins, mostly from other countries. I have a dime here that I would like graded. It is NOT magnetic. Thank you for the help. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4337 Posts |
 condolences for your loss beautiful coin you have there it's uncirculated with a few hits to the coin here and there I'm not sure if there is an old dipping that really should not hurt the value I'm going to give it entry level mint state and call it an MS60
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Welcome to Coin Community, sirelothar. I'm sorry to have to meet you under these circumstances, but as you might imagine we frequently see new members who have just inherited coins without knowledge of them. So, with that in mind, I'm going to cut straight to the chase here: This coin is almost certainly worth more than $1000. Few were minted - 230,000 - and they are vanishingly rare in Uncirculated condition. I tend to agree with dsfreeworld's belief that this is an Uncirculated coin. I see no wear in the places I would first expect it to appear. It is very strongly-struck for this date; the detail in the hair and the ribbon bow on the reverse is superior. It is imperative that this coin be treated like the important piece of American history it is. It must not contact any other coin, or indeed anything save a mylar flip or something similar to hold it. Do not hold it other than by the edge. Further, in order to maximize the value and preserve it for the future, it should be sent to a reputable Third Party Grader ( TPG) for authentication and grading. I hate to put it this way, but this coin is going to force you to learn some of the details of numismatics. I don't know your current level of expertise, so please ask any questions necessary regarding what I've just said.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
 Good advice given above. I'd say you have a MS63 piece worth close to $2,000 in that grade once certified problem-free. Great little coin.
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New Member
 United States
20 Posts |
Thank you all for the help! I am learning about this as much as I can just googling and such. Most of these were not really her coins, but her fathers. Both of them were born and raised in Germany so an abundance of the coins are from there. I have posted a few pictures of European coins I need help with identifying in the Identification forum here as well. I had no clue what the coin was worth as I am not interested in selling them unless the need calls for it. It's not a collection she really ever brought up, but it was part of her fathers so I'm not going to just up and sell it for some quick cash. I will be learning as much as I can about all the intricacies over the course of time. I am trying to catalog all of these and put them in some protective casing since they were all mostly sitting in tackle boxes and piles inside of old potato sacks. Thank you all again for the nice welcome, if I find any more old USA coins I will be sure to post them!!
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Moderator
 United States
16677 Posts |
I have to agree with a MS coin, MS63 would be about right and yes, you are looking at a $1800-2000 coin. Third Party Authentication is a must. I would recommend PCGS. I too am sorry for your loss. Welcome to the CCF sirelothar :-)
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Excellent. This is all good to hear; it means you don't have to learn everything you need to know in the next week.  First thing: If you don't already have them, order up a set of mylar flips to hold raw coins. Here's the caveat: These flips are also (cheaply) made of a plastic which includes PVC, a substance which makes them "softer." You deal with PVC often; if you've ever bought a new shower curtain, that "new" smell is PVC. This is not a good thing for coins. The outgassing byproducts of PVC are chemically reactive with almost every coin metal, particularly copper and silver, and will inevitably damage the coin if left in contact for more than a week or two. So you want to ensure that any flips you buy contain no PVC. They will be described as "mylar," "archival," or something ensuring that they do not contain PVC. This is the specific brand and type I use: http://www.wizardcoinsupply.com/pro...ips-2x2.htmlI trust both the Saflip brand, and this particular dealer, without question. Doesn't mean you have to use them, but I strongly urge Saflips. Quick test: if the flip will fold over and stay closed with the weight of the coin on top, don't use the flip. You should have to crease it between fingernails to make it stay closed; that's what PVC does to plastic. The other alternative is the traditional 2x2 (other sizes available) cardboard flip. They are almost always cardboard and mylar, quite safe, and perhaps more popular than my choice of storage. They will require a stapler to seal, and preferably a stapler which flat-clinches instead of the "usual" curved clinch of an office stapler. One uses these with a sense of more permanency than plastic flips; their nice regular shape lends itself to easier bulk storage in boxes designed for the role. You'd additionally need a bespoke stapler, of course. I use what I do because I tend to remove coins fairly frequently for photographic study and such. Either method I've presented is perfectly acceptable from a numismatic standpoint. I can't speak to your European coins - not my specialty - but hopefully we'll have a member or two who can help you there.
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New Member
 United States
20 Posts |
Good to know about the PVC sleeves. I am going to be buying a lot of sleeves tomorrow that you recommended to me. I am going to be off here for a week soon and it will be fun looking these coins up and finding out about the past. There's something amazing about holding a coin from 1600's and so, knowing someone likely handled that coin. As I said I hope to be keeping most of these coins, especially the USA ones as a heirloom for the family or emergencies. I have a LOT of old German 5 mark/10 Mark pieces which I will likely get rid of since there are hundreds of them and there's no need to have that many in my eyes. I think her dad collected a majority of these purely for silver content. Thank you again for the help. I wasn't expecting such quick responses. I am going to be going into the attic here within the next few days and fishing out a few more tackle boxes worth of coins that haven't seen the light of day since the early 1900's , so hopefully I will find some more old US ones I can post here. I plan on starting my own collection of coins and using that dime as my first as long as the greedy side of the family doesn't show up to stake their claim to sell!
p.s. I am definitely getting that dime authenticated. I was afraid it was a fake at first because it looked fairly new.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
If you want a few flips that are used to submit coins for grading, just message me your address by clicking on the icon in this post that show an envelope. I'll send you 4 or 5 for free. They are good for temporarily storing coins or shipping them for grading. Here's what they are: http://www.pcgs.com/store/p-18-safl...n-flips.aspx
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: Thank you again for the help. I wasn't expecting such quick responses. I don't have a life. That's why I'm a Moderator.  At least as regards US coins, concentrate harder on building a list of denomination/date/mint marks than shooting a ton of individual images. You've obviously got the ability to shoot acceptable images. Even Classic US coinage for many dates can have very little relative value over melt value; let's start by concentrating on stuff that perks up the ears of knowledgeable collectors and thereby reduce your immediate workload. And develop a quick feel for the level of wear. Doesn't have to meet the 70-point Sheldon Scale we use, just a few clickstops at "really worn," not too bad," not much wear at all," "Uncirculated," and "Holy Cow!" That'll help us answer you more quickly, because some coins are what we call "condition rarities," like your Dime above.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
3167 Posts |
Quote: I don't have a life. Ahh, but if that is true then moderating gives you a life!  Sorry to hear about your grandmother. Yes, learning about the collection would be the best course of action. Learn as much as you can about grading, and the different coins available. Love that dime!  And 
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New Member
 United States
20 Posts |
I do have one last question. If I find stacks of coins, presumably of the same kind. Is it better to keep them in the paper rolls or should I unwrap them?
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Moderator
 United States
16677 Posts |
Uh, if you find stacks of coins like this one, you just hit the lottery. I would recommend carefully undoing the rolls and placing each one a saflip. If they are all like the one above, you need to do a bulk submission.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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New Member
 United States
20 Posts |
It's definitely not a stack of that dime! It's just raggedy rolls of german coins and some other ones. I just wasn't sure if it was better to keep them wrapped or not so I haven't done anything with them.
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Moderator
 United States
16677 Posts |
You can always buy plastic coin tubes to store them in. That's what I'd do.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4337 Posts |
coin tubes are best. just search the supply store link that SuperDave provided. I have purchased from that supplier as well. Very reputable. You should submit this dime to PCGS and have it encased and conserved forever.
there's only 300 of this 1864-S LSD around and ONLY 20 of those are in the grade you posses. They do not come up for sale very often.
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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,445 |