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Proofs

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collect4fun's Avatar
United States
1151 Posts
 Posted 05/23/2007  4:46 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add collect4fun to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
According to my RedBook, pre 1968 proofs were made at the Philly mint and current proofs are made at San Fran and West Point.

So what proofs were made at Philly and are all coins made at San Fran today proofs?

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Rigoletto's Avatar
United States
287 Posts
 Posted 05/23/2007  5:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Rigoletto to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
There were some coins minted since 1968 in San Francisco that are not proofs, ie Ike S mint silver proofs and 79-81 s SBAs. Proofs are only proofs because of the special attention given to the surfaces and strike of those coins.

Anyone else that can elaborate more on this?
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Jaobler's Avatar
United States
6381 Posts
 Posted 05/23/2007  7:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jaobler to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hi Collect4fun,
Every rule has its exceptions....
Almost all proofs from 1964 and earlier were from Philadelphia. There are early branch mint proofs known, such as the 1838-O half dollars from New Orleans, as well as proof 1875-S twenty-cent pieces and 1894-S dimes from San Francisco. I think there may be some authenticated Morgan dollar proofs that were made at Carson City (those would be cool!).
Modern proof sets come from San Francisco. However, other mints, especially West Point, have produced an assortment of modern commemorative proofs. The 1984 Olympic $10 gold pieces were made in proof format at SF, West Point, Denver, and Philly. The key date 1995-W proof silver eagle was made at West Point.
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Bryan1315's Avatar
United States
14454 Posts
 Posted 05/23/2007  7:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bryan1315 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
you are correct 1893 had some Branch Mint Proofs struck at Carson City
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collect4fun's Avatar
United States
1151 Posts
 Posted 05/24/2007  5:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add collect4fun to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I understand that proofs are not a condition but a manufacturing process. So how do you tell the difference between a high grade business strike Philly coin and a Philly proof?
Edited by collect4fun
05/24/2007 5:59 pm
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lknerr's Avatar
United States
167 Posts
 Posted 05/26/2007  3:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lknerr to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I obtained a book from ANA that I call my bible for proof and mint sets. The title is "United States Proof and Mint Sets" by Ron Guth and Bill Gale. The book shows you pictures of every proof and mint set and the original government packaging from 1936 to 2002. It also gives you some history, the face value, issue price and mintage. The book also has history of events in the US and the world for the year your looking at. The main reason I bought this book is when you start going back in time who really knows what an original US Mint package for a proof set or mint set was. This book has saved by $$ many times.
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 05/26/2007  8:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Of course you must note that Proofs are special made coins with a speical process. They are then entered into a plastic type holder. Same with Mint produced Mint or Uncirculated sets. If you should find a coin in circulation that was once a proof, there is a great chance it was from a stolen collection and spent as normal currency. Other times inheritances end up the same way. Once in circulation much of the surface has been damaged suffieciently to make Proofs almost worthless as a collector item. If the coin is still in the original package it should state Proof and with that you'll know.
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BRUCE 1947's Avatar
United States
834 Posts
 Posted 05/27/2007  06:57 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BRUCE 1947 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just as a side note the reference book that Iknerr is talking about is a excellent book that would be of use to all collectors. I have used it many times to make sure I am getting what I paid for.

Bruce.
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