How To Bring Out Luster In A Coin

The key to getting the "in-hand" look is to take the pic in the exact same lighting and viewing situation you use for viewing, but since the camera can't see in stereo, the trick is to use only one eye. Find what looks best to you, then put the camera where your eye is and take the shot. The camera will give you EXACTLY what you are seeing. If you don't think the camera is reproducing the in-hand look, it's because you aren't presenting the in-hand look to the camera the same way you're viewing it. Unfortunately, many folks think of the in-hand look of the coin as including stereo view as well as multiple viewing angles as they rotate the coin around, and then they complain that the camera, which can only capture one single view of one single angle, doesn't show the coin well. I've seen a few folks do videos of their coins, or at least multiple-image animations, to try and show the movement of luster and subtle toning changes vs angle. This is cool, but a lot of work and still doesn't show the look of the coin in stereo as we see it in-hand...Ray

I usually try very hard to find the best angle in hand, and take the photo from the exact same field of view as my eyes, but I guess I will try again with only one eye open. And perhaps try out other methods that would make it more precise.

I like the third one as well because it shows the most luster but the blues and purples are too yellow. Is it wrong to photoshop a coin for sale?

If you rely on the image coming out of the camera, you'll never be satisfied. Post-processing (using Photoshop, DPP, ViewNX2, Lightroom, GIMP, whatever) is almost always required to give the best final result.

The camera image needs only to have a few key characteristics:

1) It should have no over-exposed areas. Exposure near saturation is OK, but if any area goes over then you should reduce the exposure
2) It should be fully in focus. You can't fix focus problems
3) It should have correct color, ie white balance vs the lighting used. White balance can be fixed later but it's much easier to fix it before you shoot
4) It should be lit "correctly" for the coin type. This differs by type of coin (Lincolns are different from Indians, etc)
5) It should be lit "correctly" for the surface finish of the coin. Bright BU require different lighting vs proofs, circulated coins, etc

If all the above are done well, then the image has solid "raw material" to work with. After that, post-processing is done to turn that raw material into a "finished product" that best represents the way the coin actually looks.

Guide or website for macro photography preferably specifically for coins?

I found this photo forum and found 2 great tips from rmpsrpms. But I was hoping that someone knows of a website or guide of macro photography preferably specifically for coins? That would go deeper and more of an instructional step by step than what rmpsrpms provided- which is a great help already. For example: 4) it should be lit "correctly" for the coin type. This differs by type of coin (Lincolns are different from Indians, etc. 5) It should be lit "correctly" for the surface finish of the coin. Bright BU require different lighting vs proofs, circulated coins, etc.

I would really like to bring out the tone colors of my coins.

Thanks!

Going to start by reading about the relationships between aperture, ISO and exposure and see where that leads.

Thanks SsuperDdave

Where should I look for high-end macro lens point and shoot solutions? There are many general setting to choose from ie. P, TV, AV, M, A+, CA, and than pictures face, flower, runner...

The best place to start learning about the different camera modes is from your camera manual. If you don't have one you can probably get a copy online. When basic questions come up, Wikipedia or other source can help answer them. If you get stuck, or if your questions go beyond the basics, ask them here. You'll be up to speed quickly with the manual and yet it can only take you a little way down the path...Ray