Guidance For Macro Photography Specifically For Coins?

I am *so* happy to hear about the equipment you own. This is going to be fun, and you're a better photographer than you thought.

The software your camera came with will include a manual. It will also include a really neat application called Zoom Browser, which will allow you to run the entire photographic process from your computer and use your monitor for focus. You are in a very_favorable position to create images on par with anything you'll see here at CCF.

You'll find a light tent supplies very different results than direct lighting. It will be easier to bring out details under a light tent, at the cost of losing luster and the "character" of the coin. Direct lighting offers the opposite advantages, and you may want to consider using both techniques for coins you post here until you refine your direct-lighting technique to the point where a light tent isn't necessary.

OK, the first thing we need to do is get your equipment set up to maximize accuracy. A tripod is a perfectly usable tool, but understand that you're going to want to have the camera perfectly vertical over a perfectly horizontal coin, and that can be difficult with a tripod. What I've done in the past is either use the corner of a table to get the tripod over top of the coin, or weight the back end of a board small enough to fit under the tripod, sticking out from the table.

If you can create such a setup close to your computer, do so, so we can use Zoom Browser later to keep you from having to touch the camera once the initial setup is done. You can run this software just as effectively from a laptop if you have one, and that would allow you to bring the computer to the best location for shooting rather than vice-versa.

Now. You're going to want a soft surface upon which to set the coin, of course; I'm personally partial to used t-shirts but others will have other opinions. Either way, you're going to use only black, white or grey background; no color.

Here's how you get your lens and the coin perfectly parallel: set a small pocket mirror up on the surface on which the coin will rest. Aim the camera at it, and adjust it so the lens you see reflected is perfectly centered in the viewfinder. That's all there is to it.

Next, we need to find out how close it's possible to get to the coin, while still achieving focus. With a 50mm lens (it's a good macro lens, for the record), you're going to be able to get closer to the coin than will be advisable for effective lighting. You're probably going to compromise between ultimate image size (closer is bigger, of course) and enough room for decent lighting. The goal is to be able to shoot images that are nice and sharp when posted here at a size of at least 650 pixels diameter and preferably 800.

Set things up, and do an experiment where you start at about 10" between the coin and the front of the lens, and move it closer step-by-step to find the point where it refuses to autofocus. No need to even take pictures; we just want to know how close you can get. That point will be exactly the same for all coins.

Figure these things out, get back to us and we'll start talking nuts and bolts.

SsuperDdave great information.
Jake1050 please keep us posted.

By virtue of owning that camera, you have the legal right to own the free software package which comes with it. I no longer own a hardcopy, having sold it with my T2i, but it's entirely likely that someone else here could help in that regard.

I see some striking capabilities in that image. The color really stands out, especially since color usually requires very specific lighting - I think you'll be astonished at how bright that color is when you light specifically for it. Focus is a little off, which I think might be due to the slab. I'm guessing you're autofocusing, and the lens wasn't quite sure where to focus.

If I asked you to make a Metering adjustment on the camera, would you know where to go for it? Next question - are you a Windows or Mac user? I would like to get you able to post EXIF data (no need to read the fine print in the link, just get the overview of what it is):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exchan..._file_format

This will allow you to post the photographic parameters which the camera chose for the shot, so we can figure out what tweaks are appropriate. I'm not going to deceive you - your equipment is sophisticated enough that you're going to need to do some serious learning to maximize its' effectiveness. A number of CCF'ers have preceded you down this path, and having started from scratch are now posting images that others envy.

Exchangeable image file format.

going to have to read that a few times!

The 50mm macro is a nice lens, I'd think about adding some extension tubes as well, no need for the electronic capable ones as you will most likely be using manual focusing in extreme macro shooting, you should be able to find a set of them on ebay quite cheaply. Non electronic should run around $15 for a set the electronic ones will cost about 2-3x more, unless you stick with actual Canon branded ones then you will pay around $200+

Just run a search for "Canon EF Extension tubes"

Ah, did not think of that, the off market extension tubes with electronics are getting pretty cheap now days anyways. So probably a better buy. I still don't have a set for my Canon EF setup, but do have them on my old manual focus cameras.

OK, today's topics:

1) Concentrate on getting that EXIF data, so we can tell what your aperture, exposure and ISO settings were. If you're familiar with Windows file management, all you have to do is right-click on the image file, choose "Properties" and then "Details" from that context menu, and that gives you the EXIF data.

2) Until we go fully Manual in operation, use Av Mode, set the Aperture at f/8, and leave it there. This aperture is (generally) the best setting to offer enough depth of field without getting into diffraction (worry about that term later). A larger (numerically smaller) aperture will let more light in, allowing lower ISO and faster exposures (both of which are good things), but at the cost of depth of field so the whole surface of the coin might not be in focus. Use a 2-second delay for your shooting, so you aren't physically contacting the camera when it snaps the shot.

3) Learn how to do a custom White Balance setting with your camera. This will involve taking a picture of (this is the way I do it, there are other ways) a stack of printer paper, and then essentially telling the camera, "this is white, correct things so this looks white to you." That setting is unique to the specific lighting you're using at the moment, and if you change any of the lighting you have to change the White Balance.

4) Post what you're using for lighting. Here at CCF, we're big fans of the Jansjo LED gooseneck lamp sold at Ikea for $10; we generally use them in pairs, set at 10:00 and 2:00 and shining as directly downward on the coin as possible. We like them because they're cheap and infinitely adjustable.

5) Get these and the vertical setup configured before we worry about making any other adjustments, and consider trying manual focus with the coin on the camera's rear screen.

I'm available until about 4PM today. At that point, I'm headed for work and will be spending 37-1/2 of the next 64 hours on the clock with 4 hours' sleep between shifts. No telling if I'll be capable of posting Sunday after the dust settles, without sleep, so don't be worried if I don't show up until Sunday night. There are others following the thread who will likely be helping in my absence.

Oh, one more thing: always orient the coin vertically to the camera, so whatever face you're shooting is straight up and down.

This is what we're here for. You've stumbled into one of the hotbeds of coin photography on the Internet; we've a pretty fanatical core of people dedicated to the art. This could just as easily be rmpsrpms, CaptainFwiffo, brg5658, westcoin or any number of other members as it is me offering the help.

We're doing things with technique here (thanks mostly to rmpsrpms) which are bringing coin photography to a new level of affordability and quality. Once we've got you proficient with your current rig, we're going to spend (if you're willing, of course) a sum of your money somewhat less than that 50mm lens costs new, and put you into the top 5% of all coin shooters anywhere with the new equipment.