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 Replies: 8 / Views: 1,620 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4593 Posts |
What does true tarnish do to a coin's grade?
I'm looking at a piece that was tarnished (toned to black) and then circulated enough to reveal the high spots.
(Sure somebody could have done this to hide major damage, but all the high spots are right AND it's a $70 piece).
What does this do to the grade... it's an honest EF40 as is...
-----Burton
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/ |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I've had a two coins returned to me as being too toned to grade or even authenticate.
That's what excessive toning can do.
Not many coins get body bagged anymore but that's one case.
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Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
856 Posts |
This is where what your coin is and where/who you talk to makes a big difference Burton. Modern coins don't tend to tone all the way and people generally prefer them clean and shiny. But old stuff, well, I kinda like that black with highlights look myself. Others like brown or green! This for example. In the hand it's a velvety black with hints of chocolate (!) You simply can't fake this sort of toning, so it reassures me that this really is a 370+ year old coin.  In theory, toning shouldn't affect a coin's grade. And in cases like this it actually helps to authenticate the real deal. Of course, it's not to everyone's taste. Which is perhaps a good thing or we'd all be chasing the same coins, eh? |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4593 Posts |
This isn't that bad - I think it's the narrow edge between tarnish and patina. We shall see...
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/ |
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Valued Member
United States
362 Posts |
Do you mean it looks like this?  If so, the consensus when I posed the same question was leave it alone. At the time I contemplated handling this one daily until some of the black wore down, but chose to go with the folks here as they are genuine in their help. Just so you know, this one is a 1890 cc tailbar, so the value is definitely an issue. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4593 Posts |
Well, it's a little more tarnished than Fatman's... and it's not bit a great picture ( ebay quality), but all the diagnostics are right. On the obverse, the wear points are the high points of the star, the double lines of the shield and the letters. On the reverse, it's the C, the *s and - most importantly - the diamond inside the C (and as a sign of EF NOT the orbs).  I didn't spend a lot, so it's not that. Mostly training and learning to trust my own eyes... -----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/Edited by BStrauss3
09/28/2013 7:42 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1959 Posts |
I think you shoul mark this coin down as original, be happy with your purchase and look for more just like it. That coin is as honest as the day is long. Probably spent a little more time in an old album than most giving it more color than some. I seek out coins like this. And EF-40........ I think you are spot on there also. Nice little coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4593 Posts |
Quote:
I think you shoul[d] mark this coin down as original, be happy with your purchase and look for more just like it. That coin is as honest as the day is long. Yes, I've come to love the silly little trimes over the past months. They were well used at first, but it was hard usage. They were hard to mint (so thin) and so a decent strike is special some years, etc. Plus there is a good reference work on the series (Flynn & Zack). I started building my 1861 circulated typeset from the bottom up ( Half Cent) but the last month or so I've been mostly looking at these. For the typeset I need a type 1 (1851-53) in VF, a type 2 (1854-1858) in EF and an 1859 or 1860 in AU. I still need the 59/60 (and a VF 1851O), but somehow now own 5 and have a bid in on a 6th... I have a post up to try & identify some damage on one that might be a clashed die... https://goccf.com/t/159285. So I'm thinking about an EF40 set. 1851-1862 would be doable. After that, lower mintages and the dual existence (1865ff) of the Nickel 3c would make it hard. 1873, just 600 all proofs are impossible. -----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/ |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
It's my opinion that the "circulation cameo" look you're showing is an absolute virtue on Trimes, Seated coinage and Bust Halves. Lovely coin. |
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Replies: 8 / Views: 1,620 |
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Posted 09/28/2013 1:08 pm
