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 Replies: 19 / Views: 3,430 |
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Valued Member
United States
315 Posts |
...that could double in 20 years. Currently, I'm buying cheap 30 year old proof sets and anything other than the most common bicentennial coins. I'm hoping when they hit the magic 50 year mark, theyll be worth at least double what I paid for them.
Any suggestions? I'm already holding gold and silver, I could get into copper but the storage would be crazy.
At face or spot is maybe too low, maybe 1-2$ markup?
Edited by Superhal
10/03/2013 08:34 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
If you buy inexpensive items it's HIGHLY likely they will always be inexpensive items.
Yeh, they'll go up in value BUT inflation will eat that up.
As for bullion who knows where it'll be in 20 years.
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Valued Member
United States
477 Posts |
IMHO you should only buy coins that contain PMs. They have the best chance of increasing in value. I don't see any clad sets, even proofs, ever having much collector value in any of our lifetimes.
Again, this is just my uneducated opinion. I like shiny, pretty, uncirculated coins and I only buy coins containing PMs so my collection is mostly modern silver proofs and only if they're close to 2x melt value or less in the raw. At minimum they will have some PM value when clads may only be worth face.
But it's all a gamble, just buy what you like and hope for the best, there's not much chance you'll lose no matter what happens.
Rick
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
I agree with just buying PM containing sets... 44 year old proof sets (1968) sold for $5...listed value is now $5 48 year old proof set (1964) sold for $2.10 now $20 but almost all of that is spot silver value Just because something gets older doesn't necessarily mean it will become significantly more valuable... A while back I was on a binge of buying 1964 and earlier PF sets as close to spot as I could get them...got a bunch and will hold for PM's to go somewhere...numismatic value is not really a factor Occasionally you can find groups of Barber halves at a tad over spot. As a rebate on a few sets of 5 ounce "quarters" I got 15 Barbers at exactly spot price rather than cash. |
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Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2133 Posts |
Quote:
As for bullion who knows where it'll be in 20 years. That's true of any series, of course, - fashions come and go. Personally, if I were buying for investment, which I'm not, I wouldn't buy what's in demand now (modern PM proofs and non-legal tender) because high demand goes hand-in-hand with high prices. Instead I would choose a series which isn't in demand or one which is growing in demand, and preferably one that's not dominated by PM value. If you want to make money now, buy the bargains and sell them at near their retail value. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5201 Posts |
Quote:
I agree with just buying PM containing sets...
44 year old proof sets (1968) sold for $5...listed value is now $5 The 1968 proof sets contains PM. Just Sayin' |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
Yup, around $3.20 of that set's value is the 40% half
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
If that was the goal I would go with quality over quantity. I completely agree that common things generally remain common which severely limits their upside.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
Correct...and that is why most that buy PM containing products go with ASE's or the gold counterparts...small premium, quality and content can't be beat AND easy to sell |
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Valued Member
 United States
315 Posts |
Awesome, this is exactly the advice I was looking for. )
My coin dealer has been in business over forty years, I think except for newly discovered errors, his prices dont change. He consistently has old stock at a dollar or two above what he paid, even if he bought it in the 70`s.
He has tons of three coin bucentennial silver sets too. :)
Edited by Superhal
10/03/2013 7:29 pm
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Valued Member
United States
131 Posts |
I was told once by a older collector to buy old high dollar coins.. they rarely go down and they aren't making anymore of them.... good luck and happy huntings... PEACE...
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2734 Posts |
I've been buying common Silver Proof coins/sets as bullion for years now. I've seen people at coin shows walk right past modern Silver Proof coins priced at melt value, and then buying circulated junk silver.   ASE's are easy to sell, true, but when you buy them you always pay a premium over spot. Junk silver and AG Proofs can be found for melt, which gives you more silver for your money. |
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Valued Member
United States
315 Posts |
Quote:
I was told once by a older collector to buy old high dollar coins.. they rarely go down and they aren't making anymore of them.... I'm trying to get in on the ground floor as much as possible. Imho, it's hard to tell on the older coins which have room to increase in value. If they have already been identified as valuable, then I think it's too late. In other words, I don't want to spend $98 on a $1 coin and in 20 years have it be worth $99 (doubled face value.) I want to get into something like bicentennials where you can buy them at say 40-50 cents today, and maybe sell them for 75-$1 later. |
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Valued Member
United States
368 Posts |
i have a few proof sets, but I am reluctant to buy any more. considering for example the 1983-S proof set. priced at $11.00 when it came out, current retail is around $3.50 - $4.00 so it has lost value in 30 years, what difference does 20 more years make? by that time if trends continue it will be equivalent of $1.50 - $2.00 today. maybe 2013 ASE are good investments, if they are well protected over the years, they are bound to be worth something one day. only thing is,who knows when that day will come. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1247 Posts |
Any new coins I buy have been ASE's (just regular BU). and Silver Mint Proof sets... (2010 onwards) I did buy some 3 cent coins (1 at auction and 1 at a stamp show). All the other coins I have bought at face or found.. what does PM mean? |
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Valued Member
United States
315 Posts |
Quote:
i have a few proof sets, but I am reluctant to buy any more. considering for example the 1983-S proof set. priced at $11.00 when it came out, current retail is around $3.50 - $4.00 Awesome, that's a good one for me, not so good for you though. :( The one thing I like about proof sets is that there is a set floor for value, they can never go below face. Buying a 1/5/10/25/50/$1 for say $3-4 is exactly what I am looking for. Also, looking back, it seems that after 20 years, proof sets hit a floor and stop going down. If I can buy at the bottom and it stays at the same price, that's fine. Quote:
what does PM mean? Precious metals, gold and silver. Edited by Superhal
10/04/2013 10:02 pm
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Replies: 19 / Views: 3,430 |
Posted 10/03/2013 10:27 am
