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Newbie Help Thread. What Am I Looking For With Lincolns?

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New Member
DeadheadRI's Avatar
United States
18 Posts
 Posted 10/17/2013  10:56 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add DeadheadRI to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hi guys.. HELP!

New to this as you may know, and I've been learning alot in these forums- jumping all over the place to educate myself.
Could really use the help and experience of you folks who have been at this for awhile. I figure if I can keep all the information in One Place so as to reference when needed (hence this thread) I, along with other newbies will be much better at the hobby, thanks to your efforts.

My question:
Regarding Pennies/cents, what do you folks look for when CRH? And why? Could you explain 'Key dates, any and all terminology actually. Establishing values? Anything I should know when cracking open a roll of Abrahams.

I'll thank you all ahead of time for your help and indulgence.

Charlie/RI
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kanga's Avatar
United States
5825 Posts
 Posted 10/18/2013  08:39 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kanga to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Start by getting yourself a Red Book.
And if you're serious about getting into CENTS there's probably a specialty book about them.

And what's CRH?
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CoinCollector2012's Avatar
United States
8137 Posts
 Posted 10/18/2013  08:51 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinCollector2012 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
CRH stands for coin roll hunting Kanga. @deadhead, you should get a redbok
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Broseph's Avatar
United States
979 Posts
 Posted 10/18/2013  12:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Broseph to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
First define how much time you want to spend per coin/roll/box. 1: Do you want to do high volume and just find wheats and coppers and other obvious oddities?

2: Or do you want to delve a little deeper and look for things like doubled ear, WAM and CAM cents? This requires looking at each coin's date, then checking other features, usually with magnification.

I tried my hand at #2 for a while, but I ended up not having the time/patience.

3: You can even go deeper into looking for strong strikes and detailed coins in dates with weak strikes.

Once you decide whether 1, 2, 3 is right for you, then you can start looking into "what to look for." When I was doing #2, I had a written list of things I knew to look for organized by date. Eventually you will start to remember and need the list less and less.

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Broseph's Avatar
United States
979 Posts
 Posted 10/18/2013  3:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Broseph to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I copied this from another forum, it looks like a decent list to work from:

1909-S VDB
1909-S
1909-S Over horizontal S
1911-S
1911-D Over D (RPM)
1914-D
1914-S
1917-P Doubled Die Obverse
1922 No D
1931-S
1936 Double Die Obverse
1944 D/S Variety 1
1944 D/S Variety 2
1946 S/D
1955 Double die
1970-S Doubled die
1936 Double die obverse, the date, LIBERTY and IN GOD WE TRUST has some doubling.
1941 Double die reverse: Doubling of the date and LIBERTY.
1943-D The D is stamped over another D (RPM).
1943-P Should be a steel cent but there are reports of some struck using copper.
1944-D D over S the mint mark D is stamped over the S.
1946-S S Mint mark stamped over a D mint mark.
1955-D Stamped over a horizontal D.
1955-P No VDB.
1955-P Lincoln Wheat cent Double Die cent.
1956-D D Stamped over a D mint mark.
1958-P Double die obverse.
1959-D First year for Memorial reverse, check for wheat reverse.
1960-D D over D RPM
1960-P Look for Small Date variety, the 6 has a shorter stem than normal.
1963-D Check to see if the 3 in the date is struck over another 3.
1968-D D mint mark stamped over another D.
1968-D Double die reverse, strong doubling in the word AMERICA.
1969-S Lincoln Memorial double die, all design features strongly doubled.
1970-S Small date Lincoln Cent with a doubled die reverse, strong doubling of TRUST & LIBERTY.
1970-S Small Date high 7.
1970-S Level 7. The 7 is level with rest of date.
1971-P Double die obverse, strong doubling on LIBERTY & IN GOD WE TRUST.
1972-p Lincoln doubled die obverse
1973-P No V.D.B.
1980-D A shadow of an S mint mark struck above the D.
1982-P Doubling of IN GOD WE TRUST.
1982 DDR
1983-P Doubled die reverse doubled, IN GOD WE TRUST doubled.
1984-P Doubled ear, look at the ear lobe.
1984-D Doubled Date.
1989-P No VDB.
1992 Close AM
1992-D Close AM
1994-P Doubling of the last three columns on reverse.
1995-P Double die, LIBERTY doubled.
1995-D Double die obverse, strong doubling of the date and LIBERTY.
1996 Wide AM
1997-P Double Die, look at the ear lobe like the 1984.
1998-P Wide AM reverse Lincoln Memorial cent.
1999-P Wide AM reverse Lincoln Memorial cent.
1999-P There may be double dies varieties.
2000-P Wide AM in America.
2003-P May be doubling of the steps, experts say "yes", mint says "no".
2006-P Double Die Obverse
2009 Look for doubling of the thumb
Valued Member
Superhal's Avatar
United States
315 Posts
 Posted 10/18/2013  5:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Superhal to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Anything pre-60, 60-81 coppers, 82 coppers (must be weighed to tell the difference,) odd numbered years in the 90's (mostly p but some D), 72's, 2000 P.

All years: obvious double dies, rotational errors, off center (rim missing), spectacular toning (at least purple,) MS older than 80, proofs.

List above is good but some of those you need a microscope to see. I usually only check if it can be seen with the naked eye, like Close/Wide AM, and the coin is in fairly good shape. Under say 20 or so even if you find something it's worthless because of condition.
Edited by Superhal
10/18/2013 5:19 pm
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wheatchaser140's Avatar
United States
2368 Posts
 Posted 10/18/2013  9:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add wheatchaser140 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That depends, are you interested in antique coins, metal value, or errors? Copper pennies (pre-82) are worth about 2 to 3 cents a piece. However, it is illegal to melt them down and they take up a lot of space. Errors can be valuable but are pretty rare, any that you find are usually very minor and not worth much. They take up a huge amount of time to inspect. For antique coins, collect wheat pennies, from 1909 to 1958. You usually find 10 to 25 wheats a box. Pre 1940 wheats and S mints are worth a slight premium and are a treat to find. I classify wheats into five levels of rarity. Common dates have a mintage of at least 50 million. Better dates have a mintage of 10 to 50 million. Semi-key dates have a mintage of 2 to 10 million. A key date (1909-S, 1914-D, 1931-S) is 0.5 to 2 million. The key to the series is the 1909-S V.D.B with only 484,000 made.Look out for world coins and Indian Head cents. You can look up mintages for the Wheat cent series. Have fun!
New Member
DeadheadRI's Avatar
United States
18 Posts
 Posted 10/19/2013  11:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DeadheadRI to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you to all who have responded! Wow! That list is really something. Thank you for posting! Went through (again) some $33.00 of coppers I had sitting here and pulled out all the 70's and 72's and S's.. interesting..

Any other ideas, please keep them coming!
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Broseph's Avatar
United States
979 Posts
 Posted 10/19/2013  12:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Broseph to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
82 coppers can be easily tested by flipping them in a normal coin toss fashion. If you get a sustained ring the entire time, it's copper. If you get a short "plunk" its zinc. Try it out on pre and post 82s and you can tell VERY easily.
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ijn1944's Avatar
United States
19150 Posts
 Posted 10/19/2013  12:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ijn1944 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I've searched cent rolls for over five years. In addition to the stuff noted by others earlier, you'll likely find that certain items will become personally interesting to you.

Now and then you'll find pristine, borderline AU/MS (About Uncirculated, Mint State) 50s and 60s, still having brilliant copper/red color. You'll also find some strongly-toned (almost rainbow-like)coloration on coins.

Keep what catches you eye--in addition the usual wheat cents, obvious errors, etc.

Good luck.
New Member
DeadheadRI's Avatar
United States
18 Posts
 Posted 10/19/2013  11:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DeadheadRI to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What a day.. ended up going through everything I had as to pennies. You're right. They take up alot of space, so I decided to roll what I could..

72P x2
71P
70 x2..cant tell large from small yet
69D
69P
68P
67P
66P
64P x2..with a couple 65's to fill the second roll.
61 mixed mints

...several hundred 59-72 without a home yet
... maybe 200 60's/70's AU/BU.. to my rookie eyes they were "Wow..shiny! Looks brand new!"
...Several hundred more AU from 80-13
... Only 11 S mints in the entire bunch!

Maybe up to $25.00 (2 and a half coffee cans) in 82-13 which I'll gladly pay CoinStar 9% to get rid of and can grab another box with the take..

Tomorrow is for CAMS, WAMS, and other oddball stuff..

So when do we all get rich?
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