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Need Advice For TPGs

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Author Previous TopicReplies: 8 / Views: 1,871Next Topic  
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wheatchaser140's Avatar
United States
2368 Posts
 Posted 11/23/2013  5:13 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add wheatchaser140 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I found a Brilliant Uncirculated 1959 LMC roll hunting that, in my opinion, is worth slabbing. How should I go about this?

My main concerns:

-How to store/ship?
-Which TPG to use (My top three are PCGS, NGC, and ANACS)
-Fees?
-When to expect the coin back?
-Insurance?

Here is the coin. The pics do not do it justice. Please any more tips you can think of. Anything helps!

Need-Advice-For-TPGs
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BH1964's Avatar
United States
10982 Posts
 Posted 11/23/2013  5:33 pm  Show Profile   Check BH1964's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add BH1964 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'll just say don't do it. These are common in MS66RD and only worth about $30 retail at that grade level. MS67 is a different story and it is worth $400 at that level. The thing is the coin has to appear almost perfect to get a MS67 grade and your coin doesn't look close to 67. It looks more like a very nice MS65RD on the obverse and that's a $10 coin.

Good Luck!
ANA #R3154474
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basebal21's Avatar
13014 Posts
 Posted 11/23/2013  5:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You have a few different options for shipping. I personally use the flat rate express mail bubble mailers you can order for free on usps.com. The insurance on express mail is dirt cheap and you can insure up to 5k with it. For higher value packages the price is almost the same as other methods since you have the cheaper insurance rate with it.

The other common method is registered mail and priority mail. Whatever you do though you want something tracked and insured. I only use priority for lower value modern lots, and would use registered if express mail wouldnt insure to that value. Others always use registered.

All of them will want the coin in a plastic flip. They don't want any 2x2s though they usually accept ogp too for things like commemorative or sealed boxes from the mint you just shipped right there.

I like pcgs the best since they generally fetch a premium is you sell it. All three are fine though.

Pcgs and NGC make you join to do it yourself but the best deal is the PCGS with the 8 free submissions. If you use them for the pre 64 coins that can't go in the modern you save like 50 dollars that way on the submission plus get the membership for free.

Definitely insure you package going out there. Any of those three on the label would be asking for trouble if you just dropped it in the mail with no insurance/tracking.

Turn around time varies depending on the tier you use and how busy they are. Right now if you used the regular tier at pcgs I think it's about 9 business days not counting holidays.

My advice though would be that if that's the only coin you have to send in, wait until you get more. The fees for a single coins are brutal since you get hit with pretty much the same shipping charge for 1 coin as you do for 8 or 9. Even anacs which is the cheapest wouldn't be very cheap for a single coin. You can usually do 8 or 9 coins for 200 something while a single coin would run you about 60 something not counting shipping to them. The more coins you do in a single order the cheaper it becomes per coin.

You can submit through a dealer as well, BUT if you don't have a long standing relationship with one who can I would not go that route. If you think there's any chance you'd submit more in the future I'd do it myself. The memberships are good for a year for pcgs and Ngc and anacs doesn't require one.
Edited by basebal21
11/23/2013 5:42 pm
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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23522 Posts
 Posted 11/23/2013  5:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I can't add anything to the two posts already here, except to urge you to read both, especially the first. With those large gouges in a prominent area of the right obverse field, reverse unseen, I don't know if this one would even reach 65. The resulting value won't compensate the cost of grading.
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wheatchaser140's Avatar
United States
2368 Posts
 Posted 11/23/2013  8:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add wheatchaser140 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, it also has quite a fingerprint on the reverse now that I think about it. If it won't at least reach MS-65, I also now think it's not worth it. Thank you all for your help.
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NathanASE's Avatar
United States
1511 Posts
 Posted 11/23/2013  8:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add NathanASE to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I completely agree with Ssdd and BH, the value/grade doesn't justify the cost of slabbing. For me personally unless a coin is valued at around $400+ I won't consider slabbing... And even then it's iffy.

And I should mention that I also agree with baseball in regards to how to do it if you choose to, sound advise. I don't mind ANACS at all either though, I'll take them over NGC and for Morgan's and any variety there my first choice. If it was soley for resale then yes, PCGS.. But slabbing for my own collection I'd usually go with ANACS.

Lol, I just scrolled down and saw you responded, most likely right when I hit "respond" as it wasnt there when I just read all the posts... saying your not going to.. Sorry, lol, I guess this is kinda pointless to post but since I already spent the time typing.... Lol
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oih82w8's Avatar
United States
7840 Posts
 Posted 11/24/2013  12:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add oih82w8 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you really want a 1959-P or D Lincoln that is TPG'ed, ebay has several for under $30.00 in PCGS MS66RD...that price beats the tar out of submitting.
Edited by oih82w8
11/24/2013 12:02 am
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matthewvincent's Avatar
United States
3486 Posts
 Posted 11/24/2013  02:35 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add matthewvincent to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A question:
What is the purpose of slabbing a coin?
Protection, authenticity, higher return upon sale?
Or is "p l a s t I c I z I n g" a coin somehow of value in and of itself?
I recently bought a $350 coin in a slab. After the transaction was complete, the dealer offered to 'crack it out.'
"YES," I said, avoiding bits of plastic landing on my floor.
(I would have done so on my own anyway, with inferior tools.)
Why?
A collector of this series and grade [high XF] would not look at the label. Instead, he or she would look at the coin. An oft repeated bit of advice which, sad to say, often falls on deaf ears.
Slab a 1914-D cent? YES! For the sake of authentication.
ANACS did the job or me.
Slab a 1959 cent? Again I ask, WHY?

Edited by matthewvincent
11/24/2013 02:38 am
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vermontensium's Avatar
United States
16679 Posts
 Posted 11/24/2013  10:07 am  Show Profile   Check vermontensium's eBay Listings Check vermontensium's eCrater Listings Bookmark this reply Add vermontensium to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I've seen coins like yours at shows for $1 in binders.
Extremely common date and grade.
swcoin.ecrater.com
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