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 Replies: 19 / Views: 1,957 |
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Valued Member
United States
93 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
872 Posts |
It may have helped the appearance, but a Third Party Grading ( TPG) service would give it an "Unc Details" due to the residue that remains. I would say, if it was professionally cleaned up, it may be a MS-62 to MS-63 or so. I think some TPG places grade stricter than others..... The 1921-P Morgan year seems to be quite abundant, and its value can be seen on most TPG sites. Additionally, if thats a scratch near "E P" on the Obverse, it will probably be noted on the TPG slab as well. If it is a die crack or die break, all is well. Looks like it may continue through "E PLUR", but its difficult to tell if the two areas are related. |
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Pillar of the Community
Israel
2420 Posts |
It was UNC details, and it is UNC details by any TPG. Coin does look better than before, but it still is a problem coin. |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
5417 Posts |
UNC details and still is UNC details. You're gonnah have to soak it for a while more to get the rest off.
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Valued Member
 United States
93 Posts |
I figured I was going to have to soak it more. Just wanted some experienced first impressions.
The line between E-P-L-U-R is a die crack. Between L-U is die break.
I'll keep soaking it. Unfortunately the residue looks "baked in". I don't think the spots will come off with out damaging the luster.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
Soak in acetone again, repeat as necessary until gunk comes off. Shouldn't affect the luster from what has been shown so far in your comparison photos.
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Valued Member
United States
93 Posts |
Quote:
I don't think the spots will come off with out damaging the luster. I should have said I would have to rub with something like a q-tip and that would do some damage. I'll keep on soaking and see what happens. Had to look up UNC Details. That's why I bought it. It looked uncirculated from the pictures. Didn't know if I could get the glue off. |
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Pillar of the Community
1751 Posts |
Back into acetone it goes.
Use your finger/fingernail if it needs some help getting off. Yeah, yeah, it's taboo, but heck, works great. I do it on nicer Ikes all the time... use my finger to get the residue off, then back into the acetone to get the oils off.
This coin will probably need a dip as well, once all the residue is gone.
Edited by FadeToBlack
11/26/2013 12:52 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1372 Posts |
Don't use your fingernail. The tape residue should melt with further soaking in acetone. If you don't have access to an air hose, get a can of compressed air that you'd use to blow the crud out of your keyboard and use that to "move" the remaining, presumably loosened glue.
If that fails ... a high tack masking tape will more than likely remove it. You may even want to try that first.
That's a pretty serious die crack ... and not a scratch on the obverse.
Chance
Edited by Chancellor Sutler
11/26/2013 12:56 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1554 Posts |
Don't use your fingernail. Soak, and then soak again if necessary. also compressed air if necessary as stated above.
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Valued Member
United States
93 Posts |
Quote:
That's a pretty serious die crack ... and not a scratch on the obverse. It is and it seems to be the only one. Don't they usually work their way around the letters in a circle?  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1372 Posts |
Sometimes but not always. If you look closely, it continues counterclockwise through the denticles all the way to nearly the 8 o'clock position.
Chance
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
I should have said I would have to rub with something like a q-tip and that would do some damage. I'll keep on soaking and see what happens.
Don't touch it with a Q-tip. Better your fingernail or a toothpick. That's a rare 1921. It's a tremendous strike, and a 1921 with fields even resembling PL is a rarity. Devote the time to a patient acetone regime; don't be afraid of multiple soaks of 24 hours or more. There aren't many 1921 specialists, but every single one of them will see what's different about this coin. It's worth the best conservation effort you've got. I'd pay a premium for this one. After you get rid of the goo.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1372 Posts |
I was hoping you'd weigh in on this one SD. I know you're a 21 Morgan guy.
Chance
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Valued Member
United States
93 Posts |
Wouldn't you be worried about burnishing the luster using a tooth pic?
In my vast two weeks worth of experience I have tried a wood tooth pic soaked in acetone on another Morgan and it seemed to leave a shiny spot.
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
No, I'm not worried about a toothpick. With a toothpick, you pick. With a Q-tip, you rub. Only one of those solutions involves grabbing something and immediately lifting it off the surface; the other involves grabbing that something and rubbing it on the surface. The difference is huge in the numismatic sense because the whole point is to get stuff away from the surface, now.
Any application of a tool to the surface of a coin must always be weighted against the consequences; leaving a mark is fatal. It's that simple. I feel that in this case, the use of a picking tool (toothpick; very much preferably a rose thorn because they're so sharp) might be the difference between getting the coin clear or not, and I will always advocate liquid-only contact before ever suggesting a tool. I may be proven wrong here, and the coin won't need a tool; I hope I'm wrong. This coin is worth treating in the least-intrusive manner, because it's a relatively rare strike of an issue struck in the millions. This one needs the best care. There aren't many, and that number isn't going up.
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Replies: 19 / Views: 1,957 |
Posted 11/26/2013 10:22 am
