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XF 40 And XF 45 Grades On Buffalo Nickels----What Gives

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Black Diamond's Avatar
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 Posted 12/10/2013  9:19 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Black Diamond to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I see a lot of the 1920 dates of Buffalo nickels with grades from PCGS of XF 40 and XF 45 without a full horn. I've even saw a 1920-D AU58 from NGC with a full horn. Has the grading standard been changing?
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 12/10/2013  9:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm going to hypothesize here, since Buffs are not what I'd call a personal specialty. However, I know that strike quality varies wildly in that series, and perhaps 1920 (which Mint?) is known for weaker strikes. Another consideration is that even though the horn isn't the highest point of the design, improper die preparation (did they basin Buff dies?) can have the effect of weakening lower portions of a given design.
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smokeriderdon's Avatar
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 Posted 12/11/2013  12:09 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add smokeriderdon to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
As dave said, it is recognized that the buffalo is notorious for weak strikes throughout the years. Perhaps the rest of the coin justifies the grade and they are not grading on just the horn.
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acloco's Avatar
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 Posted 12/11/2013  12:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add acloco to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Buffalo nickels, are, IMHO, a rather unique series. By date & mintmark, there are many series within this series - such as noted by others above.

One of the series, that I seriously struggle to grade with any consistency.
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kanga's Avatar
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 Posted 12/11/2013  09:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kanga to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Grading Buffalo nickels is NOT a purely technical exercise.
As others have mentioned average strength of strike for each date/mm is taken into consideration.
I'm in the process of learning the characteristics of each date/mm.
I bought two guides (Lange's and Flynn's) to the Buffalo nickel set and have started going coin-by-coin through my set.

It ain't easy.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 12/11/2013  3:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
One of the series, that I seriously struggle to grade with any consistency.


You ain't the only one, buddy.
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DoubleEagle20's Avatar
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 Posted 12/12/2013  9:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DoubleEagle20 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Another problem for the Buffaloes was the mints often let the dies run way too long, much like the Philly mint did with Morgan dollars. Die cracks, granularity, greasy kinda look on many.
Edited by DoubleEagle20
12/12/2013 9:36 pm
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 Posted 12/12/2013  9:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Try to remember that one item on any coin does not justify a grade. The full horn on that nickel is only one item for many people and not so important to others. Many people go by the lines on the Buffalo's hump too. Another important thing about that Nickel is it is not a Buffalo nickel, it is an Indian Head Nickel. Many graders go by the numerous line work in the Indian's feathers and hair for a grade as well as the Buffalo's details. And that famous date that gets wiped out so fast too is an important detail. You could have a full horned Buffalo and an almost gone date so now what? Many people say there are more details on the Indian's head than on the Buffalo.
This one coin is one of those rare coins of ours that has sort of two names. Most lately call it the Buffalo nickel yet again, it is in reality an Indian Head Nickel. The Buffalo is really the reverse.
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weerdsteev's Avatar
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 Posted 12/13/2013  12:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


If the horn was the overriding factor in grading this series, then I have seen some mint state 1926-Ds that should only get a grade of FINE! Each year and each mint within the year has its own story to tell. Sometimes there are multiple stories.

That said, my initial reaction is that I would not buy any 1920 at XF prices if it didn't have a full horn, as my experience says that there are an adequate number of XF pieces with full horns to be had.

Do you have a link or links to those horn-less XFs you mentioned that you can share with us?
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Black Diamond's Avatar
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 Posted 12/28/2013  5:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Black Diamond to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
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hesgut's Avatar
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 Posted 12/28/2013  7:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add hesgut to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40063370857....m1423.l2649 this is an AU55---your thoughts


Yeah, that one is absolutely horrible. I like how the seller says "well struck for the date" and is charging well over high retail for that disaster.

I will say, that while this may be the worst strike I've ever seen, it may actually be an AU. The thing is, I'm not sure how it made it into a problem free slab, especially at PCGS who are the most strict at that.

It's obviously spotted and not just some minor carbon, I'm pretty sure I see some green.
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weerdsteev's Avatar
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 Posted 12/28/2013  9:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ugh! Yeah, I wouldn't hit a dog in the butt with that coin. Full horn examples are available if you look hard enough. I recently restored and sold a full horn 1920-D on ebay. I mention that only because had it not had a full horn in the first place I could not have achieved a full horn on the restoration.

Keep looking!
Edited by weerdsteev
12/28/2013 9:15 pm
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westcoin's Avatar
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 Posted 12/28/2013  11:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It's all about the strike and knowing the year/mint in this series. I once had a super nice AU53 1923-S NGC that I was able to get almost MS62 money just because the strike was so full. The dealer I sold it too was excited to get it, and told me he had one graded MS64 with more luster but it still wasn't stuck as well as my AU53 coin. I learned quite a bit from picking his brain that day on Buffalo nickels. I had not realized just how many years are super tough in the series to find full strikes on. Like Jeffersons with full steps and Franklins with FBL some common dates can bring crazy money for certain attributes of strike.
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