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 Replies: 19 / Views: 2,721 |
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Valued Member
United States
160 Posts |
Hi, all... I bought this 1852 Type I Gold Dollar off of ebay recently, but after weighing it, I'm concerned about its authenticity. A Gold Dollar should weigh 1.672 grams, but this one weighs 1.631 grams, which concerns me. I wondered what you all thought about that, as I'm a novice when it comes to such matters. I'm including a photo of the obverse and reverse, as well. Thanks for any help you can give... Steve   |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
4911 Posts |
Weight seems OK considering the wear and gouge.
Feel free to call me Will.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
5417 Posts |
 there is a good amount of wear and the gouge does affect it too. I hope you didn't pay too much. The coin is harshly cleaned, possibly polished and has a gouge, I'd say 40% or list IMO. |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
What worries me is the roughness in the fields and around the lettering. Stars are reasonably sharp. What is the condition of the milling on the edge of the coin?
Not 100% sure of myself, but I am leaning towards a jeweler's copy in 18 or 20 carat gold. Perhaps the dullness comes from actually having been in a jewelry piece, and been worn as such.
It must be remembered that because of their small size, gold dollars were often copied for jewelry purposes. The South African gold 'tickey' was often targeted for the same reason.
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
zxcccxz -- nope, I didn't pay much. I had a good idea that it was a pretty rough coin...I paid $103 for it, which I don't think was a bad price (do you?) for most any gold dollar (aside from ones with holes drilled in them, etc.) Like I say, I don't have any expertise regarding coins and numismatics -- just some basic knowledge. I really LOVE coins, but don't have the money to buy "specimens," so my "collection" would be worth little to most anyone.
sel_69I -- the milling is not too bad; I know what you are asking and I don't see any gouges or marks or indications that it was in a holder of any sort. The milling is "worn," but not so much that you can't tell that it is reeded. But, I think you are saying that you'd feel better about its authenticity if there was evidence that it was set in a jewelry piece, correct? I don't see any of that...
Steve
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Valued Member
United States
179 Posts |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
In most cases, the milling on genuine coins is much more sharply defined and more even, than on copies.
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Valued Member
United States
160 Posts |
sel_69I -- to my untrained eye, the reeding looks even...
ambro51 -- what do you see that says "fake" to you?
Steve
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Valued Member
United States
160 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
It does look a little odd to me but I do not know why...
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
It does look a little odd to me but I do not know why...
Corrosion. Gold doesn't do that. You'd be hard-pressed even to stain gold with something that didn't come off under tapwater. |
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Valued Member
United States
179 Posts |
The depressions on the 1 on the reverse are seen on many fakes. The roughness and raised lumps are not on genuine pieces, the weight is off, the color looks wrong.
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
I would be really worth looking at X Ray florescence testing for some coins. I dunno if the cost would be justified in this case; cost investigation is certainly worth looking into; that won't cost anything.
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Valued Member
United States
160 Posts |
X-Ray flourescence, sel_69I? I never heard of that, and not sure where to even look (google, I guess! :) )
For what it's worth, I took the coin to three places in town; a "gold and silver" shop, a coin dealer, and a jewelry shop where the owner is "familiar with coins."
Each of the three suspect it to be genuine, although none could guarantee it and each noted that there are alot of fakes floating around. Each one was willing to buy the coin, one for $60, one for $70, and the coin dealer for $95. So, each believed "enough" in their opinion of the coin's validity to offer spot, or more. Not that this tells me anything with certainty...
Aside from "X-Ray fluorescence," or sending it in to PCGS or ANACS or someone (which, for this quality of coin would not seem that the expense is justified), do I have any other options to offer me any degree of certainty that this is not a fake?
Steve
Edited by sgoss66
12/17/2013 6:50 pm
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
I would take the $95 offer. There is too much going on with this coin, even if it is genuine (which I have my doubts).
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Valued Member
United States
160 Posts |
I hear you, johnny...
Problem is, I simply wanted to have one in my collection that I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for, and selling this one puts me back at square one.
It's really frustrating that the counterfeiters have introduced this problem into the mix; basically the result is that in order to be SURE you are getting a genuine coin, you have to buy one that has been certified by one of only a few groups who can guarantee authenticity -- thus driving prices up DRAMATICALLY.
It's frustrating that we live in a world where greed runs amok, and honesty is often nothing more than a trite concept...
Anyway, enough whining on my part. Am I on track that, in order to end up with a one dollar coin that I can TRUST is genuine, that I will spend a minimum of about $250?
In fact, let me take this in a different direction...let's say I want to get a yes/no answer, once and for all, on whether this coin is genuine, or not. What is the least expensive way for me to do so? If I send it in to one of the coin grading companies, is there an option where they simply note it as being "genuine," or not -- and if so, what would the cost be? Is there any other, less expensive alternative?
Steve
Steve
Edited by sgoss66
12/18/2013 1:41 pm
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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,721 |
Posted 12/14/2013 11:23 pm
