Posted 06/29/2007 12:39 am
Thanks.
I've been practicing grading for about a year now and I've been buying more certified coins (only NGC, PCGS, and ANACs.)
I notice there is a significant difference between a fake and an authetic luster...grade, etc. The shine spins in clockwise when tilted towards you, counterclockwise when tilted away from you. A lot of cleaned coins I've also seen show a flat line of shine that doesn't even spin.
The only difficult part for me is trying to tell the difference between very high grade coins...such as the difference between an MS-66 and an MS-67.
I've recently practiced with many 1939-D Walking Liberty halves that were both certified MS-66 and MS-67, but some MS-67s look worse than the MS-66s and some MS-66s look waaay better than the MS-67s. Then, some MS-67s look better than MS-66s also. It's tricky, especially with what doesn't count off on grades and what does, as well as the unique varities of toning, such as end-tube Golden Halos around the outer part of the mint state coin and rainbow toning.
Still, I'll try to find the best 5 coins I can and make sure they are not cleaned by comparing them to the real thing in person.
Basically, I know that cleaned coins look too perfect or have a nice clean surface with missing key details, such as hairlines and other commonly faded details.
Still, I've seen some UGLY MS-66 and MS-67 coins too...graded by PCGS! The coin was near perfect, except for a small (or large) area of solid dark corrosion, dirt, or possible a three-deminsional toneing that just tricked me in the photo. still, they were only photos of coins on ebay and other auction sites, so it's possible for trick photography to come in.
Don't believe me?
Take a look at this:
Was this person just lucky? That's some Maddd physical damage on the reverse.
I've been practicing grading for about a year now and I've been buying more certified coins (only NGC, PCGS, and ANACs.)
I notice there is a significant difference between a fake and an authetic luster...grade, etc. The shine spins in clockwise when tilted towards you, counterclockwise when tilted away from you. A lot of cleaned coins I've also seen show a flat line of shine that doesn't even spin.
The only difficult part for me is trying to tell the difference between very high grade coins...such as the difference between an MS-66 and an MS-67.
I've recently practiced with many 1939-D Walking Liberty halves that were both certified MS-66 and MS-67, but some MS-67s look worse than the MS-66s and some MS-66s look waaay better than the MS-67s. Then, some MS-67s look better than MS-66s also. It's tricky, especially with what doesn't count off on grades and what does, as well as the unique varities of toning, such as end-tube Golden Halos around the outer part of the mint state coin and rainbow toning.
Still, I'll try to find the best 5 coins I can and make sure they are not cleaned by comparing them to the real thing in person.
Basically, I know that cleaned coins look too perfect or have a nice clean surface with missing key details, such as hairlines and other commonly faded details.
Still, I've seen some UGLY MS-66 and MS-67 coins too...graded by PCGS! The coin was near perfect, except for a small (or large) area of solid dark corrosion, dirt, or possible a three-deminsional toneing that just tricked me in the photo. still, they were only photos of coins on ebay and other auction sites, so it's possible for trick photography to come in.
Don't believe me?
Take a look at this:
Was this person just lucky? That's some Maddd physical damage on the reverse.
Edited by Lovethebluesman
06/29/2007 12:44 am
06/29/2007 12:44 am
