| Author |
Replies: 26 / Views: 6,346 |
|
|
|
Valued Member
Canada
95 Posts |
Thanks lazycat, been looking for information. I think my teeth are to big in my jeweler saw, I hear you're supposed to use a 3/0 4/0 or 5/0, I'll be buying some soon, and try again. I was trying to do a close enough cut and then file the rest out, slow process with poor results.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1200 Posts |
1---Welcome to CCF! 2---Spectacular cutting job! The delicate detail of the job is extraordinary and the work hours that went into that must have been over the top.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
3167 Posts |
Quote: A sloth with a long tail ? Interesting point....
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3453 Posts |
Quote: A sloth with a long tail ? Maybe he has a good story?  Great work! That is a beautiful piece. 
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
3692 Posts |
When you fire up sterling silver sometimes the surface can come out yellow. When you overheat sterling silver too much in one spot you'll get a purple stain on the surface that bleeds up from the core and it's super time-consuming to get erase, but it's not yellow. Send one to a refinery if you want an exact assay (metal composition report).
@lazycat: You have to learn the hard way never to cheap out on good tools, good on ya! Currently using "Scies" (Swiss) from 2/0 to 8/0 depending on metal thickness. 3/0 is pretty solid. I would gradually make my way down until I got comfortable with the sawblade. You'll be cursing every minute as you break a blade. One key thing is to make sure there's "bite" on the teeth, meaning there should be at least 2 teeth on the metal's surface as you're sawing down. It all depends on the thickness, so don't use a fine sawblade on something thick, and a sawblade that is too big for the metal will "catch" too much on a single tooth. Filing down stuff is very time-consuming, so I would get used to the smallest blade you can handle for the job. Oh, and consider the cost of each blade: 8/0 blades cost about 50% more than 2/0 or 3/0 on the gross. :) Oh, by the way, you can always replate the coin if the customer is picky.
Edited by Libertad 03/26/2014 2:18 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
3692 Posts |
If you're cutting Canadian coins, please make sure you do it outside the country just to be on the safe side. I know you were just kidding, cderksen. Canadian coins are the only coins I will not touch because I respect the fact that they are currency of the realm. Foreign coins that get abandoned here are fair game.
|
|
New Member
 United States
9 Posts |
cderksen - not to sound simplistic, but you real;y want to hone your skills to point where you (almost) never need to do any filing. Sometimes the smallness of the coin won't even allow for filing. I have strictly been using 2/0 blades for everything, down to the finest lettering, but have recently bought a gross of 4/0, and they are great too. More for dime sized stuff with great detail. What is your setup for cutting? I use a vice grip, held in place horizontally, by a bench vice. Works very well.
|
|
New Member
 United States
9 Posts |
Sloth with a tail? Didn't even think about it. Apparently, neither did the Congolese mint. Oops. I guess we'll just have to suspend our disbelief.
|
|
Valued Member
Canada
95 Posts |
@lazycat. I've just started this new hobby and only have the blades that came with the jeweler saw. Will be buying some more this weekend from Amazon, will buy the 4/0 since you mentioned them, and I don't have the knowledge yet of which to buy. Maybe I'll try a little bigger coin to start, like a American half dollar, since I have a small stock pile from coin roll hunting. Didn't even think about a vise grip in the bench vise, I've only been using two small pieces of wood with the bench vice, and the coin would fall out a lot. Thanks for the information.
|
|
New Member
Australia
1 Posts |
As far as I can work out, most (if not all) Congo Wildlife coins sold on ebay are fake. I have collected maybe 200 over last few years and spent many hours inspecting and weighing them in last few days...and have found: 1) about 5% of all the coins are magnetic, all of these are 2007 2) rest are non magnetic 3) lightest coin I have is 20.7g 4) heaviest 30.9g 5) most coins are between 24.5g and 26.5g and there is roughly the same number in each 0.1g increment bracket, regardless of year or animal. Probably batches from few different Chinese factories. 6) even 'graded' 'Proof' coins are fake and so is the slab & grading 7) all are graded as either PR69 or PR70 by ECC My next step will be to test a coin in each weight bracket for silver, but based on the weight variations, I doubt any are actually real, so this will probably prove waste of time and coins. As far as I can work out so far, this is either a scam by the polish coin dealers - or scam on the dealers. The only other explanation that comes to mind is that the 'Congo mint' don't have accurate scales and mint 'proof' coins roughly 25-26g with few outside that bracket. Hmm... Not happy...not happy at all.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Belgium
506 Posts |
The country name on the coin should read:
"République démocratique du Congo"
Any such coin with the English country name only is a fantasy token only. There has been a genuine "Endangered Wildlife Series" of commemoratives issued in silver before in the DRC, but it was suspended after the rising silver price made it difficult to market the coins.
After 2005, most official commemorative issues also have been copper-nickel or silver plated copper. Yet the legend always is in French.
|
| |
Replies: 26 / Views: 6,346 |