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A Close Look At The Albinar Copy Stand

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DVCollector's Avatar
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 Posted 09/02/2014  01:17 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I recently picked up an Albinar copy stand off Amazon. Normally, I would probably avoid a "budget" stand as a waste of time. But, once I read an OK review by a photographer, I thought it was cheap enough to chance even if this stand doesn't last long. But honestly, it's hard to judge a $150 stand from a $500 model from a few, small pictures online. So here I'm posting some close-up pictures and observations, and let any prospective buyers decide for themselves.

Once you unpack and assemble this copy stand, it's clearly not in the same league as my Gitzo tripod, but the square alluminium beam provides enough torsional rigidity to be effective. Here it's set at approximately 1:1 for my Nikkor 105. The copy base is a durable matte plastic laminate. It lacks any grid, so I have constructed a smaller grid/base from a print and foam core. The angled beam is not typical for all copy stands, but it does get the beam out of the way of the lens's field of view if you were shooting larger documents.

A-Close-Look-At-The-Albinar-Copy-Stand

Like most tripod heads, this copy stand uses a detachable base which tightens to the camera with a thumbscrew. The three smaller set-screws are to adjust the inclination of the base to the camera. The other side of the base has a rubberized grip which provides resistance while tightening.

A-Close-Look-At-The-Albinar-Copy-Stand

Here is the linkage from the camera to the square beam column. Lever "a" locks the baseplate to the linkage; brass lever "b" is a safety device that when engaged prevents the base plate from popping off, to the detriment of your camera/lens. "C" is a brass bushing for the lever action--some thought was given to durability. Overall, I also like that you can easily see every connection point and check for tightness before attaching your expensive gear. I've seen that some of the more expensive stands have just a single screw between the camera and the stand--and no safety backup, so this feature is important to me. (I also use secondary backup for my camera, not shown in the photos).

A-Close-Look-At-The-Albinar-Copy-Stand

Here's the set screw which tightens the camera support to the square beam. It doesn't look like much, but when it's set tight, my ~4lb camera/lens feels very secure. The specs say it's rated to 10lbs, but that seems optimistic. While I can get the camera to shake if tapped, it settles down in around a second, which is important when doing focus stacking with a lot of increments. It all boils down to this: I can get tack-sharp pictures while using this stand.

A-Close-Look-At-The-Albinar-Copy-Stand

A cheapish plastic knob drives the camera along the track. On the plus side, it feels smooth.

A-Close-Look-At-The-Albinar-Copy-Stand

The track looks made of nylon and is 25" long.

A-Close-Look-At-The-Albinar-Copy-Stand

Edited by DVCollector
09/02/2014 01:20 am
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 Posted 09/02/2014  04:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I would get a macro rail set to add on to the camera attachment arm, so you can move the camera up and down in fine increments in a vertical motion. The trouble with stands like this, I find is they aren't fine control in adjustment. But for under $150 you can't go wrong, it's way better then the chinese junk I see on ebay lately. This stand looks like it slopes? Not vertical? If so more like an enlarging stand for an enlarger head, for printing, rather than copy work, all copy stands I've seen have vertical columns.
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 Posted 09/02/2014  06:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I would get a macro rail set to add on to the camera attachment arm,




But My impression is thatsa lot of money to spend on such a basic piece of equipment.

HUnting around pawn shops, second hand shops etc should locate a suitable enlarger stand that could be converted simply to a copy stand of much high quality for much less than the cost of the Albinar.
Just make sure the riser sits 90 degrees to the base plate.

For example from a quick survey of ebay. Ignore the postage costs I am sure you could find one locally even cheaper than these examples (as people often can't give enlarger stands away):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-Besele...em233ab66993

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAUNDERS-LP...em19f2ed22f2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-PCS...em3a96694887

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-B-600...em3a96723a48

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beseler-Cad...em1c458dc9ce

Edited by austrokiwi
09/02/2014 06:25 am
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 Posted 09/02/2014  10:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I had one of the Albinars but was not happy with the angled bar so I sold it. Too much lateral movement during focusing. How are you dealing with focus stacking with the angled bar? Are you stacking using lens AF in manual stepping mode? I'm not too fond of that either since it results in focal length changes and puts more strain on the stacking software in scaling and aligning the images. Been there on both counts, and while it can work for full size images, it will fall apart for higher magnifications.

Seems we do a lot of things differently, and I'm sure you have good reasons based on your responses, so all I can say is "more power to you".
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 Posted 09/02/2014  1:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
The trouble with stands like this, I find is they aren't fine control in adjustment.
Too much lateral movement during focusing. How are you dealing with focus stacking with the angled bar?

I'm getting there's some misunderstanding on how I use this copy stand. I don't use the rack other than to initially set the coin:camera distance, and there it stays locked in place. Naturally, there is no lateral movement while focusing the lens (manually). Whatever magnification the lens produces within the focus range of the subject between increments is easily handled by stacking software.

Thanks for looking up those links. Personally, I'm not big on buying optical equipment used from someone on ebay unless they're a respected source like Robert's Camera. I buy used from KEH and B&H--they have a good warranty, a full refund return period, and I've been satisfied buying from them for many years. They just didn't have a copy stand I wanted.

This Albinar stand isn't without its flaws, and hopefully my pictures show both the strengths/weaknesses of this design. If anyone finds this article useful in making their decision, then it was worth the writeup.

Edited by DVCollector
09/02/2014 1:49 pm
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 Posted 09/02/2014  2:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Thanks for looking up those links. Personally, I'm not big on buying optical equipment used from someone on ebay unless they're a respected source like Robert's Camera.


I assume you are referring to the ebay listings I posted. I perhaps didn't communicate too well...the point of the listings was to show the cheap options. My real suggestion is for people to look locally in second hand stores pawn shops and camera stores. An old enlarger stand converted is of higher quality and very much cheaper than that albinar. My copy stand is a converted enlarger stand and I do use it differently to you. I mount the camera in the stand, after setting the magnification I want on the lens. I then use a focusing rail to adjust the focus. I generally avoid using the lenses focusing helicoid.
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 Posted 09/02/2014  2:12 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

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I then use a focusing rail to adjust the focus. I generally avoid using the lenses focusing helicoid.
What is the advantage of using a rail over a lenses internal focus? I'm simply curious, as I have achieved very respectable results using focusing increments, which in the future will be handled by my tethering software.
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 Posted 09/02/2014  3:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
As I alluded in previous post, your 105VR shortens focal length as it focuses closer. This changes the framing a bit for each shot. All AF macros do this. The "normal" way to do macro is the way AK describes. Using the lens to focus is OK for lower mags but of course above 1:1 won't work...
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 Posted 09/02/2014  4:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I've found low cost focus rails for around $40.00 the really top end ones do sell for a lot of money - usually over $200.00.

I get you are not running the stand up and down while shooting, so it's a good mounting for your use. Yes enlarging stands can be found cheap, there was a time when I worked at a camera store, we would find one left on our back door every few days, most ended up in the dumpster, as nobody wanted them anymore it seemed, we couldn't even give them away to the local photo schools.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013!
ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.

See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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 Posted 09/02/2014  9:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
As I alluded in previous post, your 105VR shortens focal length as it focuses closer. This changes the framing a bit for each shot.
Good point, and that should be accounted for in each focus increment. Once I get a standard focus increment set with tethering, I might be able to detect the difference with larger objects--not sure about the depth of a coin though.

Some of the technical stuff interests me...in my pursuit of results. On the other hand, I've found that too much time on that can cramp my photographic style. Maybe that's not so important for coin shots, but it figures into my other work.
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