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Nikon Coolpix L830

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DVCollector's Avatar
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 Posted 12/07/2014  9:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Scurry, I'll have to check around for a good tutorial video series.
I've used the program for 15 years, and I burned through a bunch of books to learn.
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scurry64's Avatar
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 Posted 12/07/2014  10:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scurry64 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm willing to put in the work. Any books you would recommend?
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DVCollector's Avatar
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 Posted 12/07/2014  10:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sure--I'll take a look and get back to you.
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Scropper's Avatar
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 Posted 12/07/2014  11:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Scropper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
DVCollector, I just use Match Color > Neutralize as a place to start. It's not always perfect, but it works most often for me. There are some sliders you can adjust. I run all of my photographs through a batch and that's one of the first steps. Give it a try and see if you can make it work for you. Processor intensive, but it saves me a lot of time since my lighting is consistent and I can just sit back and look at the finished product after.

scurry, I've never used a book but my buddy has. I'll ask him what he used. He seems really happy with what he learned. One of the problems with photoshop is that it is SO capable that there are a million ways to skin a cat. You can use 15 different processes to arrive at roughly the same result and none of them are remotely similar.

I paid for Photoshop a long time ago, so I'm happy with it. But if I wasn't using Photoshop, I'd download GIMP for free and play with it!
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 Posted 12/08/2014  12:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
DVCollector, I just use Match Color > Neutralize as a place to start. It's not always perfect, but it works most often for me. There are some sliders you can adjust. I run all of my photographs through a batch and that's one of the first steps.
Well...I'll just say that I'm fine-tuning the colors in my photos with all of Photoshop at my disposal--I've used this program professionally for over a decade. My steps may look complicated, but I do them quickly.

The most powerful colorspace for color-correction is LAB. It's sorta a technical book, but I can recommend "Photoshop LAB Color: The Canyon Conundrum and Other Adventures in the Most Powerful Colorspace". But that's not a good book to learn Photoshop--I'll dig up the others I've used later.
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 Posted 12/08/2014  5:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
So I think Adobe's "Classroom in a Book" is a good starting point. They go systematically through the program's features, and it includes lessons and files on CD. Not too much money for an exhaustive book on Photoshop too.

I've also owned this book. It's a good one after you master the basics--it covers some more advanced photo-editing techniques.
Edited by DVCollector
12/08/2014 6:15 pm
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 Posted 12/08/2014  5:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scurry64 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks. I ordered Adobe's Classroom in a Book from Amazon last night.
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scurry64's Avatar
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 Posted 12/08/2014  9:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scurry64 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A couple of attempts at Photoshop. I think the second image is a better representation of the coin in hand. Anyone care to offer a critique?
Nikon-Coolpix-L830
Nikon-Coolpix-L830
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 Posted 12/08/2014  10:28 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think the luster on your last picture is better!
One thing I noticed when I took a look at the image, the highlights are still blown out.
Perhaps this is a contrast setting on your camera, that you can adjust?
I guess it's a matter of taste whether you want the highlights toned down, but here's a way to do it:
Under the File menu, "Open the image as Camera RAW", which will generate the Adobe Camera Raw, which generates a window with these sliders.
Below is the settings I used to tone back the highlights and up the exposure slightly to bring out luster:
The ACR window gives me a lot of flexibility to adjust the tonal range, exposure, and white balance.

Nikon-Coolpix-L830

Here is my result...you can see there are slightly less areas blown out to white on Lincoln:
Nikon-Coolpix-L830

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 Posted 12/09/2014  08:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scurry64 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The difference between your edit and mine is quite remarkable. The most notable difference occurs in the background. While the background in your edit more closely resembles the white paper I used, it appears grey and dirty in my image. I'll keep working on it. I appreciate the time and effort you have put into this. Thank you.
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 Posted 12/09/2014  11:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Oh--I should have clarified on the background. I simply used the marquee tool to create a mask around the coin, with an white layer beneath the coin layer. It's a very quick process, and perfect for coin shots. You'll find it in your book under working with layers and masks. Happy to help--got any other questions on Photoshop, post away!
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 Posted 12/10/2014  03:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Scropper to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Oh, well you said it took you ten minutes. Match Color > Neutralize takes under a minute depending on your computer's processing power and if you shoot against a white background (whether it photographs white or now) it'll get you 90% of the way there. Give it a shot if you haven't already.

I was going to say "he's just masking the bg..."

scurry, you're really coming along! Nicely done.
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 Posted 12/10/2014  07:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scurry64 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks Scopper. I'll keep at it.
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 Posted 12/13/2014  11:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scurry64 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Any improvement, or worse?
Nikon-Coolpix-L830
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 Posted 12/14/2014  1:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DVCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well...your new pics are a huge improvement over the first. With better lighting, you've managed to downplay the surface marks and die lines common on MS 70-S small dates.

Regarding your last shot, it still looks fairly contrasty--but it all depends on the "look" you're trying to achieve. There's a subjective side to this.
Perhaps if you post some pics of BU Lincoln cents that have the lighting/appearance you want--we can suggest how you might achieve that?

I can offer some advice from a technical perspective on your last shot--using the "histogram" window in Photoshop.
Photoshop's Histogram shows the distribution of pixel brightness from deepest shadows (black on far left) to brightest highlights (white on far right)
Below, figure "A" is the histogram of your last shot of the LMC. This shows an unfavorable distribution of pixels in the image.
The white arrow points to a large number of pixels pushed up against the far end--or, white pixels lacking any detail.
Secondly, there are fewer pixels in the upper midtones (black arrow) which are usually areas of interest for the eye, making a pleasing photo.

Nikon-Coolpix-L830
These are technical details which help eye appeal. It's mainly due to lighting and secondly: contrast settings on the camera.

Compare figure A to figure B--the histogram of a photo of a copper coin of mine. Notice how most pixels are distributed in the midtones (center), with very few pixels pushed to the far right (white)? Technically speaking, this is more of what you want to achieve in your photo.

Finally, compare figure A to figure C--which is where I adjusted the brightness/contrast settings of your last photo to create a better distribution of pixels. In other words--there are more mid-tone details with less dark shadows and fewer pixels blown out to white.

The last picture shows how the coin looks after I applied the changes shown in figure C. Note: I only adjusted brightness, not color.
Technically speaking, the contrast range is better--but you will develop your own technique and "look" to your photos.

Nikon-Coolpix-L830
Edited by DVCollector
12/14/2014 2:30 pm
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