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 Replies: 43 / Views: 5,164 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2540 Posts |
superb!
Now it is my turn!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2177 Posts |
A couple of Morgans and maybe a 1950 D nickel you still need to complete your set.  |
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Valued Member
 United States
65 Posts |
While I am at it could somebody explain "full steps" to me, please?
Aren't all BU coins "Full Steps?"
I've done some internet research and found the "ticks" document, but I am still at a loss. My roll has one sides tails so I can see the reverse of one coin. Using my 3X magnifying glass I can see clean steps, maybe 5 or so. I can't really tell because the magnifying glass is so weak.
Does that mean they are "full steps? Obvious, being a BU roll, there are no nicks or dents to mar the steps.
On the PCGS website they have MS-67 1950-Ds valued at 12 grand. These can't be what I have, can they?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
PCGS is an extremely high price guide and not a true representation of what value your coins may have . for a true representation of value the nickels will need to be taken on an individual basis ,, Graded and valued accordingly ,, real world values can be found by researching completed auctions ,, Heritage, teletrade or even ebay . Jefferson nickels are notoriously weak in the steps ,,even in the MS grades ,, it is a combination of the hardness of the coin metal and the relitively low pressure that they are struck at to help extend die life. in short just because your nickels are BU does not guarantee full steps ! to get a good Idea of what full steps look like take a look at a proof Jefferson,, these nickels are struck at higher pressures and multiple times and most will exhibit full steps ,, the difference in the striking of the proofs is why the full step designation does not apply to the proofs of the series . Metalman |
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Valued Member
United States
65 Posts |
Thanks for the info. I have a few proof nickels from the early sixties that I will dig out tomorrow to compare and contrast with the tails coin from my roll.
I'll report back tomorrow!
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Valued Member
United States
65 Posts |
OK, I couldn't wait!
In a side by side comparison between my roll's visible nickel and two proof nickels from the early 1960s my roll coin has full steps as good as both of them and better (at least to my 3X mag. glass) than one of them.
What is the best way to take a picture of the tails coin so that I may share with the group. I have a really nice digital nikon. What kind of close up lense do I need?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2254 Posts |
CommandD, first off, welcome to the forum. Secondly, may I suggest taking a picture of the roll and both sides etc to start with so we can see what you have. Without the pessimism coming through too strongly, is this in fact an original roll, or was it by chance re-rolled by someone with fantastic(polished) coins on each end? Just a note of caution after seeing quite a few bummed folks when searching. As for your pictures with your Nikon. It will probably depend a little bit on what type of Nikon. If it has Macro or super macro as a setting, you may not need a special lens to get close ups. Provide some good lighting as close to vertical and next to your camera lens as possible, and take a picture. You may be able to do it on auto as well instead of messing with aperture and ISO etc. Full steps should easily show up for you. I can take my Olympus on super macro down to about 2cm from the coin and still get relatively clear pictures. This is a pic from my stock Olympus C-5500 Sport Zoom at about 3cm or so with settings on auto:  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
717 Posts |
quote:
While I am at it could somebody explain "full steps" to me, please?
Aren't all BU coins "Full Steps?"
quote:
to get a good Idea of what full steps look like take a look at a proof Jefferson
1994-D BU at 10X  1994-D BU at 60 X  1994-S Proof at 10X  1994-S Proof at 60 X  |
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Valued Member
United States
65 Posts |
It is an original "United States National Bank of Denver" roll marked "1950." Additionally, somebody wrote "1950-D" on the roll in pen. I can move a little bit of the ends of the roll around to verify the mint mark on the tails is a "D" and the date on the heads reads "1950." I've only shown it to one dealer and he offered $400.00 for it. On ebay I saw that recently a tube of uncirculated 1950-Ds went for almost $500.00! Thanks for the photos; the two coins visible in my roll look much more like the proof coins than the BU coin which seems to have lots of little scratches. Edited by CommandD
09/19/2007 3:43 pm
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Valued Member
United States
447 Posts |
Hi all,
After reading CommandD's post, I went to the bank afterward and purchased 5 rolls of nickels. After checking all the rolls I found a 1952 D but in good condition, and a couple of early 40's date.
Can I even get a $1 off of the 1952 D nickel? And I must tell you, it was really fun going through the coins. I found this nickel that somone hammered a huge number 67 on the head of Jefferson. I kept it in my collection of crazy/wierd coins.
I'm going to keep finding the 1950 D!
Vince
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2443 Posts |
Wow! Congrads on the great find and welcome to the forum. If you sell the 1950-D's I'd be interested in one or two. So, how much did you end up spending on the auction?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
The problem is, that without opening it there is no way to really know what is in it. It could just be a mixed roll that happens to have a 1950 on one end and a D mint coin on the other. It could have had someone open one end of it years ago and slip the "proper" coin in and then write 50-D on it. Back in the late 50's early 60's rolls of 50-D nickels reached $1000 a roll! I purchasing power that would be like over $10,000 today. With that kind of money to be made a lot of scam were perpetrated.
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Valued Member
United States
101 Posts |
Open it up! At the very least you can sell each one for 10 bucks a pop with no problems on ebay. Its not worth anymore just cause its in a "roll" IMO. Too much mystery for it to bring a premium. If its really a roll of 40 1950d's then your not losing anything by taking it out of a paper roll you can always stick them back in the roll if you want. |
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Valued Member
United States
65 Posts |
Additional information (questions from the above posts)
The dealer I showed them to said I should definitly keep them in the roll.
"1950-D" is not only written on the roll, but it is also printed (or stamped on the roll.
Because they are in a "shotgun" roll once they come out they can not go back in. Therefore, I can't look at them without "spoiling" the roll, but this also means that somebody could not have removed the coins and replaced them with less valuable ones.
According to the FEDEX website the close up lens set I ordered will be here tomorrow so I will upload the pictures as soon as I take them.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
quote:
The dealer I showed them to said I should definitly keep them in the roll.
That dealer is doing you a great disservice by saying that to you. quote:
Because they are in a "shotgun" roll once they come out they can not go back in... this also means that somebody could not have removed the coins and replaced them with less valuable ones.
You are mistaken about this. Shotgun rolls can be recrimped and the tool to do it can easily be purchased from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Shotgun-Coin-Wr...US_W0QQitemZ a href= https://www.coincommunity.com/go/link.asp?target=https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/130154046591 target= _blank rel= nofollow 130154046591 /a QQihZ003QQcategoryZ531QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. It does not matter that the wrapper looks old. Reread Conder's post- these things were going crazy ~10 years after they were minted. |
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Replies: 43 / Views: 5,164 |
First Page
Posted 09/18/2007 5:36 pm
