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Camera And Parts Needed

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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 06/07/2015  5:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
OK, I see how the physics works here, now. Essentially only the one dark strip is appropriately exposed while the two strips adjacent are overexposed due to being at a reflection angle from the lens.
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 Posted 06/07/2015  9:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Definitely better, sharper. I think the lens prefers f8 and it also gives better DOF.
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mcshilling's Avatar
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 Posted 06/07/2015  9:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Alright so what is my next move?
Do I brighten it up the way I did in the other one?
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 Posted 06/07/2015  10:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
No, brightness is the wrong handle. In DPP editor there is a "tone curve assist" with a small "assist" and a larger "+ assist". These are really just gamma corrections that brighten the darks and midtones. Use these instead of brightness, which just moves the whole curve up or down.

I'd suggest adding a bit of sharpness, but you may not like the result in my previous edit. I noticed no one commented! You could also add some saturation if the colors need a boost. Here is an example of doing all 3 of these simple changes: Tone curve + assist; Saturation +20% (120), Sharpness +10% (50). Experiment around, but keep an eye on your highlights and shadows to make sure you don't go too far either way.

Camera-And-Parts-Needed

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mcshilling's Avatar
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 Posted 06/08/2015  5:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm trying to learn DPP

What is the right 'resolution' # to use ?

Also if we are using DPP to do every thing why do we need 'Paint.net" ?
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 Posted 06/08/2015  5:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Paint is good for special effects like overlays, arrows and text, etc. I've never used it for adjusting levels or sharpness.
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Dar's Avatar
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 Posted 06/08/2015  6:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dar to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Does the coin look that 'matte' in hand?
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mcshilling's Avatar
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 Posted 06/08/2015  7:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
No it has a nice shine to it, room to inprove
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mcshilling's Avatar
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 Posted 06/08/2015  7:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Lets see how this one is, same coin


Camera-And-Parts-Needed

I'm still getting the dark sides, setting are what Ray posted in the last pic.


Edit - uum pic is smaller, but at 194kb
Edited by mcshilling
06/08/2015 7:49 pm
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 Posted 06/08/2015  9:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This one is overexposed. What did you do differently?
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
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mcshilling's Avatar
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 Posted 06/09/2015  08:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I was trying to get the colour closer and put a little bit of brightness on it. Every thing else the same.
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 Posted 06/09/2015  10:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You'll just need to experiment with exposures, camera settings, lighting, and postprocessing to find an overall workflow that gives you what you see in the coin. One thing to keep in mind is that what you see in-hand would almost never look good as a photograph. The camera simply records what it "sees". If you like the look of a coin with a particular lighting angle, reproduce that angle with your photo setup and the camera will give you that image. If what you're looking for is areas of bright direct reflection from the light, the camera will give that to you as bright and over-exposed areas, and in that case my advice to turn down the Ev won't help you at all. Experiment and practice. And share your results, but tell us what you don't like. For instance, if all that you don't like about the last image is the dark areas, then you need to adjust the lights to shine off those areas more. Or add a reflector to bounce more light onto the coin from another angle. Or add another light. You'd be amazed what you can do moving an index card around the coin so that it bounces some of the light onto the dark areas. Give it a try!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
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mcshilling's Avatar
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 Posted 06/09/2015  10:51 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Will try playing around, we are suppose to get 3 days of rain.
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 Posted 06/09/2015  11:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Funky weather. You're getting rain, we're in a heat wave. 97-deg in my backyard yesterday.

mcshilling, you have now graduated and can move on to higher education. You have enough credit already to challenge Lighting101:basics, so you can move on to Lighting201:advanced techniques. The main content of this course is Advanced diffusion techniques (including reflection).

Most recently I've been looking into this as well, and I have a suggested method you might want to try. But I need to put a bit more work before publishing. In the meantime, you can do some pre-work by researching "directors", "smile" directors, and similar topics.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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mcshilling's Avatar
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9164 Posts
 Posted 06/09/2015  11:50 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
When it hits the 70's we take advantage of it, today is 50 and cloudy.

I don't know about graduated but thanks, smile directors? will look it up.
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