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 Replies: 12 / Views: 1,809 |
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
I've collected silver bullion mostly the past few years but that's all moved towards 90% US coins. I appreciate any help with these questions! (main question at the bottom after my rant!) I'm looking at halves right now (liberty's/franklin's/kennedy's). For some reason I personally like the Franklin's the most. I read that since the Kennedy's are only 90% in 1964, it's just better to have walking liberties or Franklin's since date isn't an issue to confirm the 90% silver. I wasn't looking at the Walking Liberty halves because I figured there would be more wear. But on APMEX, they have XF grade rolls of 20 for $180 or so, BU Franklins for $210, and on ebay and other places a roll of circulated Franklins for $150. Now I know they usually give you 1963-1964's when you get rolls, so I'm not sure if it's even worth worrying about the grade of these coins. But the Walking Liberties, I worry that at XF, I won't ever be able to get a roll of those again as the US 64 and lower coins can't ever be re-made and will be gone one day. Plus at $16 an oz for silver I figure this is as low as it's going to get. So I have these options: $180 roll of XF Liberties, $150 circulated Franklins, or $210 BU Franklins. (note: on APMEX, some complained that the grades weren't as good, so I sure wouldn't want to spend $60 extra dollars to make the franklins close to BU if it won't make a difference, plus I'm sure they are all 1963's.) So should I jump on those Liberties for $180? Stick with circulated Franklin's and other halves? Or does circulated/BU really make a difference when you aren't collecting for dates, mainly silver stacking but the plus of it being old US coins? Thank you for any help, my mind is going in circles wondering what I should focus on! -Will |
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New Member
 United States
13 Posts |
I mean I don't want coins in horrible shape. Circulated is fine. I just don't know if the XF Liberties or BU Franklins are something that's going to be gone by next year. Otherwise, I'll just stick to getting circulated rolls cheap as possible. But if the BU Franklins or XF Liberties would be special (never to sell), then I might should get that while I still can. Oh, here are the links: XF Liberties - http://www.apmex.com/product/43925/...coin-roll-xfBU Franklins - http://www.apmex.com/product/26360/...coin-roll-buCirculated Franklins - http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-Silver-F...em41934b98fbI'm kind of thinking since I don't collect many Liberties, that would be the best option to get a few. A bigger question is if the BU really matters on Franklins when the rolls are going to be all 1963. But if those BU's will be double the worth years from now than the circulated, then it seems worth it to get just one BU roll. I just read that some places rip people off using "BU" for these. And I don't know if the Liberties from 1944 in XF are going to be worth more than circulated Franklins, if so then $25 more is sure worth it. I'll never sell these, pass them down in family most likely. I just don't want to miss out on something. Edited by wmc1982
05/09/2015 8:07 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1388 Posts |
 to the forum! Honestly, it's your call. If it were me, I'd not pay $60 extra for BU coins if I was just stacking silver. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
I think it depends on why you are collecting. If it is just for the silver. I am thinking if it is just for silver then the Franklins. For a few more bucks you get can get uncirculated I would pay the extra for the uncirculated coins. Uncirculated Franklins do sell for some premium over circulated coins. The thing is if they are all about the same dates it does not matter so much I think. With the Walking Liberties I bet they would all be the most common dates. For Liberty Walkers the coins made in the 40's can easily be gotten in EF or AU condition but they are worth just about their silver value add five bucks. The older Walkers are usually very worn or you pay the big money. I bought a Silver Eagle for $20 at a show. That is an ounce of silver and quite a beautiful coin. These coins have their own collectable value now beyond the silver content. People will collect anything.
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
Ok thanks. $60 extra does seem too high for just stacking. I wouldn't mind a BU from each date now. But I just want decent looking coins that aren't too worn or black looking!
I guess the main question is about those XF liberties being only $25 more than the Franklins.
Even if the XF Liberties are all 1944's is it worth more for Franklin 63's in the same condition?
(oh, and I collect mainly for stacking silver, but I do like to have special coins too on occasion. I just don't want it to be a year from now and me beating myself up for not getting the Liberties for that price and then never being able to stack them again because of the wear issue or them not being on the market anymore).
Edited by wmc1982
05/09/2015 8:17 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
509 Posts |
Just a note on APMEX. I've bought rolls there and if you aren't satisfied their customer service is great and quick turn around on refund. Free shipping and sent me a label for the return. I find them to be good quality as well, I just had one issue with "avg circulated". |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4692 Posts |
I like both BU Franklins and circulated walkers. I recently purchased $100 face of these Walkers from Provident metals. http://www.providentmetals.com/1-fa...dollars.htmlAll coins were high quality, no culls, all full dates. I received a nice mix of coins from the teens, twenties, thirties, and forties. So I would recommend these if you want to purchase Walkers. As of this post, if you buy 100 ($50 face) or more they are basically $7 each. Edited by jimbucks
05/09/2015 9:54 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3343 Posts |
In my area coin shops mix all the 90% together and sell for 14-15x face in any quantity. I prefer halves with minimal wear. It's bullion, and someday it may trade on weight alone, so it's best to buy coins like this with as little wear as possible. Dimes and quarters tend to lose the most, but even halves can lose 5%.
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq
05/09/2015 10:08 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Attempting to tell someone what to do in a hobby is rather a horrible situation. So many people have different tastes. For example this is like telling you what kind of Ice Creme to buy. Or what car to buy. I would suggest getting your self a copy of the Red Book and looking through it for what hits you right. Take your time since buying coins could become a costly mistake. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1372 Posts |
I picked up a "late night" buy it now from an ebay seller ... 76.00 plus face value for $750.00 ... plus therewere some lincoln and Jefferson sets that I re-sold. There were 88 half dollars, 101 quarters, and 116 dimes. There was nothing noteworthy, but at 9:1 after selling the nickels and pennies.. there didn't need to be any stand-outs. Chance |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5850 Posts |
As other have said, it's a personal preference. For me, if I just want silver bullion I prefer to buy silver bars (especially when I can get them close to spot). If I'm going to buy silver coins, however, I want ones that look really nice and don't mind paying extra to get BU examples.
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Valued Member
United States
415 Posts |
I recently bought a roll off ebay for 150 of Franklins, and they were mostly XF condition or so and there was a good variety of dates. I was pleased with the purchase. That's the route I would go. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
711 Posts |
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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,809 |
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Posted 05/09/2015 8:05 pm
