| Author |
Replies: 12 / Views: 1,845 |
|
|
New Member
United States
20 Posts |
I'm a semi new collector with many questions! I'm sure you all have answered many of these types of questions before but please bare with me... Ill also post in this topic if any more hit me haha
#1) How should I safely store my coins to last and not damage or devalue them?
*Now keep in mind I'm only 20 years old, I started collecting because I love history and I think coins and currency have so much historical value, But some day I want to be able to pass my collection on to my kids and have them keep collecting. Ive heard that the little plstic sleeves can damage coins and so can many other common ways of storage. How would I be able to store my coins without causing any damage or ruining the value?
#2) Is there a guide to error coins and what kind of error coins out there? I'm always looking to expand my knowledge on every aspect of coin collecting and I really want to start looking for error coins, is there a trustworthy guide to error coins and the different type out there?
These are my questions for now I had more but ive lost my train of thought haha, if anyone can answer id be very grateful!
|
|
|
|
Moderator
 Australia
16832 Posts |
Rather than try to give specific answers to your questions, I shall offer some general advice and observations regarding the issues raised in your questions.
1. Storage.
Coins are made of bright, shiny metal. The Earth's atmosphere is the enemy of bright shiny metal and seizes every opportunity given it to attempt to turn that metal back into the rusty, crumbly ore from whence it came.
There are three main atmospheric agents that endanger coins.
- Oxygen. Not terribly much you can do about this one, unless you move to the Moon. Most containers that claim to be "airtight" are really just "air-resistant" and let air in, eventually. All we can do is seal coins up as best as possible; the few genuinely air-tight options out there are also mostly very bad at allowing you to actually look at the coins while sealed up. Vacuum-sealing is a step some go for when sealing up coins for long-term storage.
- Sulfur. This is the primary reason why coins tone, especially silver coins. Sulfur can get into the air through several routes: cooking (foods like eggs and garlic are sulfur-rich), industrial pollution (though environmental regulations have greatly reduced the amount of sulfur pollution in recent decades), and volatile sulfur compounds released from certain types of rubber and coloured paper/cardboard. The easiest way to prevent sulfur reaction is to not keep your coins in the prroximity of such sulfur sources. If that's not possible, try storing some "sacrificial" metal to soak up the sulfur before it can get to your coins; this is the principle behind the "intercept shield" line of coin storage products.
- Water. You might not think there's much water in the atmosphere, but there's easily enough to do damage. Water condensing on the surface of a cold coin can absorb oxygen and sulfur out of the atmosphere much faster than the atmosphere alone can, so it accelerates the activity of any chemical agents present. Water can also form hydroxides, carbonates and (if near the ocean) chlorides, which form much uglier and more active patches of corrosion on coins, especially those made of more reactive metals such as copper or zinc. Of the three atmospheric hazards, water is by far the most dangerous. Fortunately, it's the easiest to control: move to Arizona, turn on the air conditioner/dehumidifier and store silica gel in the box or safe with the coins. Making sure the coins stay at constant temperature, to prevent condensation from forming, is also preferred.
2. Errors
The first thing you need to be aware of is the vocabulary. There are two terms that get bandied about in the coin collecting universe, and some people tend to treat them as interchangeable, when they really aren't.
An "error" is a defective coin that results from some breakdown in the coin production machinery at the mint: a die gets misaligned, a coin gets stuck and fails to eject properly, that sort of thing. Some common types of errors include misaligned dies, broadstrikes, brockages, die caps and clipped planchets. Errors are usually "one-off" events and rarely will any two error coins look the same. Verifying and properly evaluating errors can be rather challenging, requiring a good understanding of exactly how the coin in question was made and what circumstances might exist to cause such an error to form.
Then there are "varieties". A variety is caused by some subtle change in the design of the coin caused by something different or unusual happening to the die. Into this category fall things such as hub doubling, overdates, repunched mintmarks, die cracks, die clashes and mules. Varieties are caused by the dies, and the number of varieties depends on how long those two dies struck coins together. As such, varieties are rarely "unique" in the same sense that errors are.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
|
|
Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
 to CCF. Is there a certain coin you are interested in? John1 
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
 As a start I'd suggest getting a copy of the Red Book by Whitman Publishing. For now doesn't have to be the latest edition and if you can find an older one at a used book store, might find it very educational. For one thing in that book it is explained about the different types of error coins. Not all but many. Also, great descriptions of each type of coin. You also may want to check out the Whitman Publishing web site for a list of available books on coins, types, errors, etc. Suggest a catalog from them. But remember that buying from them is expensive. Next if you can find by Google or Yahoo a list of coin shows in your area or near by areas, go to a few of them prior to getting to involved in coins. At 20 years old you have lots of time to find out what you want and how much to get involved. As to storing coins, there are many methods people may suggest. Some are placing the coins in individual 2x2 type flips. Others use Albums, plastic rolls, Folders etc. Just one more thing for you to decide as you find out more and more about this hobby.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
One thing I would disagree with Sap about, die cracks and clashes are NOT varieties. While they are in the die, they are not in every coin produced by that die/die pair. They relate to a given stage in the life of the die as it deteriorates.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
Your getting some very good advice.
I would be curious what type of coins you have or plan to collect
In my opinion proof and mint state coins need better care than circulated coins. I am not saying not to store circulated coins in a proper way, But some need special care to keep them from harm.
As for variety and error coins, I think the cherry packers guide books are a good start.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
Canada
4911 Posts |
welcome! on the subject of toning you will notice that there are many toned coins with varying degrees of eye appeal. the more WOW! the toning is the more it will be valued and prized a lot of the time. this is especially true with Morgan dollars, at the same time though, toning can cause less eye appeal and a drop in price. there are also artificially toned coins, these coins were toned by some one on purpose to give a premium value although most of the time with experience you will have something in your brain that says "that coin doesn't look right". I will leave the subject of artificial toning to some one who can explain it better though. if you want some examples of toned coins just a simple google search of "monster toned Morgan dollar" will show you coins worth bundles more than their average blast white siblings.
Feel free to call me Will.
|
|
Moderator
 United States
188770 Posts |
|
|
New Member
 United States
20 Posts |
Thanks for all the great information, As I said I'm a newish collector so I know a lot of basics but there is also just so much to learn about currency... Currently I have every proof set from 1990-2006, wheat pennies from various years between 1920 and 1950(abut 25 in all) a slabbed 1999 uncirculated Susan B Anthony dollar, The Bicentennial 1776-1976 uncicrulated collection, a 1904 liberty head nickel, 1937 Buffalo nickel, and a 1943 silver War Nickel... along with a 1943 steel penny, and commemorative USS Arizona silver 1 oz coin, along with a full Decimal issue Great Britian coin collection and a miss mash of random world coins... SO thats what I have for my collection already give or take a few coins and not mentioning the paper currencies haha...
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
7390 Posts |
Welcome Aecaus, if you are interested in errors and books on errors one of our experts here has wrote the book on them, many in fact, his handel is koinpro and he hangs around the modern errors forum
|
|
Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
Your SBA,what grading company and what grade? John1 
|
|
New Member
 United States
20 Posts |
Its MS67 from PCGS :D one of the first cpoins I ever purchased myself!
|
|
Valued Member
United States
127 Posts |
Welcome to the forum. There is a ton of knowledge here and everyone is always eager to inform and help. I haven't been collecting long myself. It sounds like you're off to a good start!
|
| |
Replies: 12 / Views: 1,845 |
|