1888 Liberty Seated Dime - You Vs. PCGS/Cac **added Grade**

That's because I made an assumption that I shouldn't have, BH1964.

I "assumed" that since the seller didn't mention any planchet flaws, strike-throughs, etc. that the issue was with the slab.

Seller spends a great deal of time with lots of pictures on this coin (high feedback and a very good seller to me) and it doesn't merit a single word?

But. I think I might have been wrong to make that assumption. If this is really on the coin, things are going to get interesting, and in a good way (to me.)

I'm going to take good pictures, it should be here 1-2days.

looks like an A-3/F-103, second round of proofs that were struck at the mint for this issue.

There are no known defects om this die so my money is on a slab defect. The only defect on this obverse is located in the last 8/upper loop.



If this coin turns out to be defects on the coin, you should request to have it noted in the current resource guide for future collectors (more so variety hounds) to reference. You'll have the plate coin and it will be attributed to you which is a cool feeling.

Coin is in hand.

Popped out my 60x and found that the defect is 100% on the coin. The slab is crystal-clear in that area.

UNITED: Obverse - The N is faintly visible, the I is obliterated but for a trace of the top cross bar, and the left half of the T is gone.

There is a die chip or crack running from the leftmost upper serif of the N to the denticle directly across from it.

The lower inner loop of the 2nd 8 in the date has a "dot" or die chip on the left side inside the 8, located approximately a width of 2 denticles left of that 8. If you were to bisect the 8 and view the bottom loop as a circle, the chip would be located at approximately 10:00 relative to the center dot of the 8's bottom loop.

I tried in the office to get pictures of the surfaces. That wasn't working, so in desperation I took a picture with it sitting on top of the roof of my Mustang, in direct light.

The loupe pictures came out ok but overexposed.

I have no idea if this makes the coin now less valuable, or if it would be considered damage.

The first two pictures are after I worked on them in Photoshop for a bit (wb/cmyk, 10% cooling filter, no sharpen)

Photoshop 1 (no mag)



Photoshop 2 (10x optical)



Photoshop 3 (reverse)



From the lens:

Direct sunlight





Indoors - Fluorescent



10x Loupe - Soft White





10x Loupe - With White LED + Soft White



Reverse - Scratches and scuff are 100% on the slab

The variety is F-101 based on the bottom loop of the middle 8. I am going to guess that this is F-101 (R4) and would be struck through, SSK, as you suggest. Perhaps it's worth getting someone from LSCC to look at it or Mr. Fortin himself. (Perhaps he'll be at 2016 ANA Money, which is conveniently located in Dallas, very close to me.)

You have to use the Denticle Ruler (DR) for determining date placement on the obverse. Your coin is not an F-101 and most assuredly an F-103. I say this because Obverse 1 has a date placement of DR-0R and Obverse 3 has a date placement of DR-1C. Your coin has a date placement of DR-1C.

I have a feeling Gerry Fortin would be most interested in this coin. You should certainly get him to see this in-hand somehow.

Good luck!

dsfreeworld, thank you so much for your expertise. If Mr. Fortin shows up at ANA Money Show in 2016 I'll make it a point to stop by with the coin.

I don't resell my coins unless they're registry upgrades; my concern was more about if the error is considered "damage" and therefore LOWERS the value of the coin. I base my C/PM/J homeowners' riders off the valuation of my holdings and update it yearly, so if something's worth way more or less than greysheet at its slab grade, that's beneficial for me to know, as it helps keep me overinsured instead of underinsured.

I'm a rank novice with Lib Seated (I have about twenty-five or thirty pieces, in total, most raw and low grade.) This is why I love this forum -- it's like having an army of numismatists to help us mere collectors wade through the hobby.

I think she makes MS64 at the absolute lowest and could easily go MS65. Fairly decent jump in price between the two. 66 and up are substantially scarcer and correspondingly more bank-breaking due to the fact that 25c face value was a LOT of money in the Depression and even very high dollar OBW examples usually show slight hits. Slight hits on cheek and the barest touch to the left obverse field. Nice
flowing surfaces. I'm assuming it's probably white lustrous and the lighting is making it look golden. Super eye appeal.



I have both toners and silver to white coins. My 1932 happens to be a toner, an MS-65 example in PCGS/CAC (green) plastic. It's amazing how two similar coins such as mine and yours can be polar opposites on coloring!