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 Replies: 28 / Views: 2,155 |
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
I bought some Mercury dimes as "junk silver." I figured there may be some decent dimes in there. I have found a few Mercury dimes that are old F-12 or newer VF-EFs. Several are old Gs or never Fs. However, I am having trouble grading those that are in-betweeners. What if the coin has a 12-20 front and an 8-10 back? Can you say it is a net 12 or do you have to say it is a 10 max? I also have some newer ones that are falling a little short, say a net 10. Are the newer 10s and the older AGs worth more than the price of silver? *** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. *** |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5833 Posts |
Only keys and semi-key issues are worthwhile to get graded in average - fine, and some are just OK as raw, non slab coins, unless is the 3 big key dates.
Common dates have small premium in extra fine and AU grades, mint states coins will probably add a dollar and more depending where the points be. "junk silver" as you stated above, it is most likely treated as bullion, and has very low numismatic value. I have seen thousands that falls between what you call in-betweeners for all those common dates, and in my case are not worth anymore then actual silver weight.
The coins in teens - 30's will have some premium if its in F-12 and above with no noticeable damage, depending the year and mint issues, these are of course worth more then the price of silver.
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
 with Macmurcery. Also, it would help to have specific details about the coins you are asking about, rather quite so broad a range. If you were able to post a single coin with pictures it would be much easier for us to help with grade estimation as well as to answer many of your questions more specifically. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
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Valued Member
 United States
96 Posts |
Well, I was going by Red Book primarily which states coins from 1916-1931 are worth at least $3 in G-4 grade and at least $3 from 1934-1945 in F-12 grade whereas the melt value is just over a dollar... |
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
So, let's say the obverse is about a 15-20 and the reverse is a 10. Can you say that is a net 12? Is the same true if the obverse is a 10 and the reverse is a 15-20?
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
Part of the reason why I did this is to practice grading. So, I would like to do this regardless of the coin value.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5833 Posts |
There's a app from PCGS called "Photograde", it has properly all the US series up to date, its available on the iPhone, not sure what other supported devices.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1788 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5828 Posts |
And it's here on the internet
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Valued Member
United States
177 Posts |
Photograde is extremely useful. But the grading problem comes when you have a split grade, say VF-25 on the obverse and F-12 on the reverse. Now, I don't know if this is etched in stone or not, but I've heard that the rule of thumb is that the obverse counts as 70% of a coin's grade, and the reverse the remaining 30%. Using that, you can start to get an idea of how a split-grade coin might net out. In the example I gave, there are three steps between grades, so using the formula you might bump the obverse grade down about 30%, arriving at VF-20. But if the grades are closer, say VF-20/F-12, it would probably keep the obverse grade.
Anyone else heard of that?
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Rest in Peace
United States
17900 Posts |
I've heard of that Aahz, and that formula worked as a rule of thumb. However, especially when you are learning to grade, you should know that it is actually rather rare for a coin to have more than a 10 point spread between the obverse and the reverse. Having a VG-10 obverse and a VF-20 reverse, for example, just doesn't happen that often. Coins USUALLY wear at the same rate for both the obverse and reverse. If, as someone who is learning to grade, you start to see more than a 10 point difference (which is, in itself, rare) then you simply need to hone your skills for detecting wear from circulation. The PCGS Photograde, which has been suggested, is the very best guide to the vast majority of US coin types, including the Mercury dime. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
The Barber series of coins tend to wear faster on the reverse than the obverse, so it's not uncommon to see, say, a Barber quarter with a F-12 to F-15 obverse and a G-6 to VG-8 reverse. Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis |
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
Aahz, thank you for that info. I use photograde and love it. Since we brought up that topic I have a specific question regarding Mercury dimes and grading the obverse. I have seen several questionable grading examples. First, what if the bust looks great but there is significant wear on the rim which is wearing off part of the letters and sometimes part of the date, but the date is still discernible. I am asking this because the older coins, 31' and older, in G-4 in RedBook are valued at $3 and I am trying to see if I have some of those. Also, 32'+ in F-12 are $3+. Sometimes the coin looks F-12+ but the hair may only be a 10. Does it default into a 10 or can you say it is a net 12? |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
I "believe" G-4 requires a full obverse and reverse rim. Macmercury can probably chip in there.
Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis |
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Valued Member
United States
96 Posts |
And is this an academic endeavor finding the 31' g-4s and 32' f-12s or are they actually worth $3 or more? And how about the 31' 3-4s and 32' 8-10s?
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Replies: 28 / Views: 2,155 |
Posted 08/05/2015 12:21 am
